how to build a mining shaker table | sciencing

how to build a mining shaker table | sciencing

Though the days of the California gold rush are long behind us, the idea of finding this valuable element on your own still sparks wonder in the minds of young and old alike. People have used everything from simple pans with holes in the bottom to pan for gold, to mining shaker tables, which allow for much faster separating of materials.

A shaker table is an apparatus used in the gold mining industry that helps to separate out heavy metals from other fine constituents. It consists of a slightly slanted table that has side panels to help contain washed materials. Pulverized rock is water washed onto the table where vibration shakes out heavy gold that remains and lighter materials get washed away.

Early miners used manual shaker tables driven by pulley systems. But modern ones run on generators or electric power. It doesnt take much effort to make one from commonly available materials and recycled parts.

There are many forms of shaker tables. These include a Keene shaker table, a gold shaker table with a riffle design, a gold shaker dancer table, or a piece of furniture to your own liking and specifications. To make a table of your own, follow the steps outlined below.

Find an old washing machine that is operational and can still agitate. Search at used appliance outlets or ask friends for one they no longer want. Dont be concerned with dents or dings, but make sure the enamel casing is still on to serve as a platform for the table. When its turned on, the washer will also act as an agitator to shake the table.

Use the lumber to make a frame that will fit snugly around the outside of the washing machine. Cut two lengths of lumber to fit along the sides of the washer and allow the wood to extend about 10 inches above it. Bolt the lumber onto sides of the washer with the help of a power drill.

Cut a piece of lumber to fit across the top of the washer and between the two poles. Allow the wider side to rest flat in front of the washer opening if you have a top loader. Bolt the wood onto the existing poles.

Make a wood frame by connecting two 4-1/2 foot lengths of lumber to each edge of the flat wood section. Slant them slightly downward so that water can pour out easily. Orient them so the wider sides are vertical and secure them with bolts. Finish the frame by attaching timber to form a rectangle. Cut and bolt two lengths of timber to the far end to serve as legs.

Erin Moseley is an advocate for science education. Since 1985, she has written numerous technical, user and training manuals for major corporations, public agencies and universities. She holds a Bachelor of Science in geology.

gold shaking table

gold shaking table

A Gold Shaking Table are basically low-capacity machines used as last step in the gold upgrading process. Theshakingtable is a thin film, shear flow process equipment, that separatesparticlegrains of its feed material based on thedifferences in their specific gravity, density, size and shape. Mineral rich particles, from light to heavy and fine to coarse will be sorted by net effective weight. Finely crushed or ground ore material goes as feed mixed with water to form a pulp (mud) andfed as slurry of an average about 2025% of solids by weight onto the highest point of the table deck. The gold tables deck hasa reciprocal movement along its main axis that is given using a vibrator or an eccentric head motion. The table surface is manufactured and fitted with several tapered strips called riffles or grooves, often made with of yellow pine (way back in time that is), low-density polythene or aluminum surfacing.Shaking tables and other thin film separating plant recover finely divided gold under conditions of subcritical laminar and supercritical laminar regimes of flow, which may occur only where there is a very thin depth of fluid.

Agold shaking tables riffles taper downwards in elevation in the direction the gold (and all heavies), precious metals concentrate discharge end of the table. This facilitates the ease with which mineral particles can move transversal to the tables axis or shaker-line, therefore helpingseparation over the complete tablelength. Riffle heights and pattern designs are selected based on the desired and required duty/function expected.

Preparing several size fractions for tabling is usually achieved in a hydrosizer. Ifgold is present in both coarse and finely divided sizings at least three, or perhapsfour separate size fractions must be treated, each under a different set of operatingconditions. Tables operate most efficiently with a closely sized feed. The slurry fansout across a smooth section of the surface until it reaches the riffles. The lighterand very fine particles are washed over the riffles and moved along the riffles by thereciprocating motion imparted to the deck while the heavier particles are held back. The concentrates of heavy mineral and gold are discharged over the end of thedeck. Tailings are washed over the lower edge and a middlings fraction is taken offbetween the lower edge of the concentrate strip and the higher edge of the tailingstrip.

Wash water usage is dependent upon the particle diameter and varies from aslow as 0.7 m/t/h of solids for slime decks, up to 56 m/t/h for coarse solidsseparation. Coarse fractions are usually treated at feed rates of up to 1 t/h using approximately 15 to 20 mm stroke lengths at around 280 rpm (Wilfley table data). Thestroke lengths of finer fractions are reduced to 915 mm with increased speeds ofup to 325 rpm but, because of the corresponding lower film, thickness capacitiesmay fall to around 0.25 t/h. The inclination of the deck is adjusted during operationusing a hand-operated tilting device. It is important following each adjustment toallow the table operation to settle down before making a fresh adjustment. The correct inclination is reached when the ribbon of concentrates is clearly defined andremains steady.

The extreme sensitivity of water depths and corresponding current depths to obtain F = 1, and the use of stationary tables as primary concentrating units, was probably the main reason for the consistently low (R.E. 6065%) gold recoveries of early dredgers. For such table types, the fluid forces are applied to the stream-beds as a whole and ripples form, which keep the sand in orbital motion and provide for the denser particles to sink to the bed. Deposition is most favoured by anti-dune conditions produced by free-surface flow at or near the supercritical state. Such bed forms are in phase with the water surface and are produced in the rapid flow conditions of Froude Number F = 1. In this state of flow, the bed forms of the upper flow regime are stable. Below F = 1 the flow is tranquil and shear forces are reduced. In reviewing recovery distributions of certaindredgers it wasnoted that some coarse gold reported with the tailing after passing through two stages of tabling and that fine gold did not concentrate noticeably down the line.

I consider the gold shaker table to be a shaking sluice box OR self cleaning sluice as they both essentially are classifiers used as heavy gold concentrating devices. Apart from nuggets; generally the valuable minerals like heavy precious metals like platinumandpalladium thatcan berecovered by tables and sluices, are found in one size range (generally the finest) and the waste minerals in another. On agold sluice, large particles (gravel) travel by sliding and rolling over the riffles, with finer particles travelling by saltation. Sand travels by a combination of modes described earlier with some saltation over the riffles.Very fine particles are maintained in suspension by turbulent and inter-particle collision.

Riffles function properly only if in the space between them and the slurry is sufficiently live (turbulent) to reject the lighter particles, but not so lively that the gold cannot settle. On a gold shaker table, those particles are allowed to settle as they will get transported to the other end by the vibrating/shaking back-and-forth motion. Lower grade, light pieces, will be able to escape the table a the riffles becomes shorter along the tables length.Once the particle has started to move, the coefficient of friction changes to a dynamic coefficient of friction. In fact, because the fluid push on the particles is larger at the top of the particle than at the bottom, the particle rolls, largely according to the shape of the particle and according to the speed. At low speeds, the effective friction is the relatively large coefficient of dynamic sliding friction, and at high speeds it is the lower coefficient of rolling friction. The change probably takes place partly continuously and partly discontinuously. As a first approximation, the dynamic coefficient of friction may, however, be regarded as constant.

In a sluice box, the settling of heavy minerals between the riffles requires frequent stirring to prevent the riffle spaces from blinding. This also disturbs the gold, which then moves progressively down-sluice. Frequent clean-ups are needed to avoid excessive loss. Boxes may be used in parallel to avoid loss of production time. One box is kept in operation while cleaning up in the other.

Effect of Deck Roughness: The foregoing analysis is based on the postulate that the deck is perfectly smooth. If the deck is rough, i.e., if it has at its surface some recesses capable of partly shielding fine particles from the rub of the fluid, the slope required to move the particles by either rolling or sliding will be increased. At the same time such an effect, while present also for large particles, may be so much smaller for them as to be imperceptible. The relationship of critical angle to size obtained above will therefore not hold for rough surfaces. The problem is analytically complex and it is nevertheless a problem that might well be explored further if a full insight is desired into the mechanism of flowing-film concentration.

Adjustments are provided in all tables for the amount of wash water, the cross tilt, the speed, and the length of the stroke. The speed of the table ranges usually from 180 to 270 strokes per minute, and the strokes are from 1/2 to 1 1/2 long.

Variations in character of feed require variations in operation. The operators duty is to take care of them by adjusting the tilt, the wash water, and the position of the splitters that control discharge of table into concentrate, middling, and tailing launders. One man may look after 10 to 100 tables, depending upon the regularity of the feed and the difficulty of the task assigned to the table.

A coarse feed can be treated in larger amounts than a fine feed. It would seem that the treatable tonnage increases at least as the square of the average size (theory indicates that it increases as the cube of the particle size).

A roughing operation is preferably conducted on a fully riffled deck. These decks have a greater capacity because the particles are treated throughout the deck in the form of a teetering suspension many particles deep instead of as a restive layer one particle deep. Such decks do not provide flowing-film concentration but some sort of jigging. On the other hand, a cleaning operation is preferably performed on a partly riffled deck.

It is clear that minerals of different specific gravity must be present the greater the spread in specific gravity between minerals, the greater the capacity since that sort of condition permits crowding without considerable penalty.

The effect of locked particles on capacity of tables should also be recognized. These particles behave in a fashion intermediate between that of pure particles of their constituent minerals. It is as if a three-product separation were sought in which one of the products would guide-in specific gravity between the two other.

Table capacity may be as high as 200 tons per 24 hr. on a fully riffled deck 4 by 12 ft. treating minus 3-mm. sulphide ore having a specific gravity of about 3.0 (roughing duty), or 500 tons per 24 hr. But table capacity may be as low as 5 tons per 24 hr., or even less, for fine ore (minus 0.3 mm.) if there is only a small specific-gravity differential between minerals.

Operating a shaking table is cheap as power requirement per table are typically low. Most of the energy is expended to move the deck, which must therefore be as light as is consistent with rigidity. Laboratory gold shaking table testingreport.

There are a few steps that need to be taken in order to get yourgold shaker table to work efficiently. The first step that aspiring gold miners must take would be to make sure that all four corners of the table are level from forward to back. It is very important to anchor the bolts so that the shaking of the gold goes to the table and not through the frame. After you begin running your table, you may need to adjust your table from side to side to maintain an even flow of materials on both sides of the table.

A gold shaker table contains a water access point where you can fill it with clean water, which can be seen right under the control area. Alternatively you can directly fill the tank of the shaker table with clean water. The water access point allows you to connect a clean water system through a garden hose. The valve that is right behind the tank is then turned off and the pump system is not running during the process of running fresh water. When clean washing water is distributed at the top of the table at right angles, particles are moved diagonally across the deck and separate from each other according to their size and density. During the fast shaking process, you will gradually begin to see the separation of materials. For example, when you have dirt and rocks that contain materials like lead, sulfides and gold, because of the varying weights of these different materials, you will see these materials venture off in different directions on the shaker table. The lead and the sulfides will be carried over to the right side of the table while the pure gold will be carried over to the far left side of the table.

There is one term to remember when professional gold miners describe the actions of a gold shaker table. When professional gold miners say that small particles of gold are being carried through the grooves, they are referring to the ripples that you can plainly see on the shaker table. When they say that there is an overflow of materials like Black Pyrrhotite, White Quartz, silver and gold on the grooves, then this is a good thing.

When materials are washed by the clean water they are supposed to drop into 3 hoppers/launders underneath the table. There is a centre launderthat will gather the purest portions of gold while the two outside launders will gather some gold, though not as much.

It is crucial to remember to plug the cable of your shaker table into a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlet. Most shaker tables will not work if they are plugged into any other kind of outlet.

In aPercussion Gold Shaker Table,the work of keeping the pulp in a state of agitation, done by the rakes or brushes in the German and Cornish buddies described above, is affected by sudden blows or bumps imparted sideways or endways to the table. The table is made of wood or sheet metal, the surface being either smooth or riffled.

End-bump tables are hung by chains or in some similar manner, so as to be capable of limited movement, and receive a number of blows delivered on the upper end. These blows are given by cams acting through rods, or else the table is pushed forward against the action of strong springs by cams on a revolving shaft, and then being suddenly released is thrown back violently by the springs against a fixed horizontal beam. The movement of the pulp depends on the inertia of the particles, which are thrown backward up the inclined table by the blow given to the table, the amount of movement varying with their mass, and depending, therefore, both on their size and density. The vibrations produced by the percussion also perform the work of the rakes in destroying the cohesion between the particles, and a stream of water washes them down. The result is that the larger and heavier particles may be made to travel up the table in the direction in which theyare thrown by the blow, by regulating the quantity of water, while the smaller and lighter particles are carried down. These machines yield only two classes of material, headings and tailings. One such machine, the Gilpin County Gilt Edge Concentrator was devised in Colorado, and has displaced the blanket sluices atalmost all the mills at Blackhawk. It consists (Fig. 46) essentially of a cast-iron or copper table, 7 feet long and 3 feet wide, divided into two equal sections by a 4-inch square bumping-beam. The table has raised edges, and its inclination is about 4 inches in 5 feet at its lower end, the remaining 1 feet at the head having a somewhat steeper grade. The table is hung by iron rods to an iron frame, the length of the rods being altered by screw threads, so as to regulate the inclination to the required amount. A shaft with double cams, A, making 65 revolutions per minute, enables 130 blows per minute to be given to the table in the following manner; onbeing released by the cam, the table is forced forward by the strong spring, B, so that its head strikes against the solid beam,C, which is firmly united to the rest of the frame.

The pulp coming from the copper plates is fed on to the table near its upper end by a distributing box, D, and is spread out and kept in agitation by the rapid blows. Thesulphides settle to the bottom of the pulp, and are thrown forward by the shock, and eventually discharged over the head of the table at the left hand of the figure, while the gangue is carried down by the water and discharged at the other end. One machine is enough to concentrate the pulp from five stamps. If the table consists of amalgamated copper plates, it is of some use for catching free gold also, treating about 8 cwts. of ore per hour. This machine is not so effective in saving slimed pyrites as the Wilfley table or the vanners.

Gold shaker tables are environmentally friendly (chemical free) for recovering pure gold as they can play an important part in reducing the use of mercury by gold miners. With gold shaker tables miners dont need to resort to mercury amalgamation or cyanide to recover gold. The filter will constantly need to be removed and cleaned as it will get dirty even after using the table a few times.

Miners can design and construct a basic shaking table out of cheap materials that are affordable in local stores, including a drive mechanism that contains bicycle gears, chains and rubber bands that are made from car tire inner tubes. The drive mechanism for a gold shaker table can be a hand crank or it can contain parts of a motorcycle frame and engine. If one prefers to use a motor for his or her table, either an electric motor or a motor that runs on diesel fuel would be the ideal options.

It is important to keep in mind that there is no one specific way to create your own gold shaker table system. Many professional gold mining organizations will create tables of different shapes and sizes to cater to the needs of their customers. Some shaker table systems will feature machines that can crush hard rocks, which are referred to as jaw crushers. The speeds of shaker table systems will vary as they can shake from hundreds to thousands of pounds of materials per hour.

shaker table plans - diy projects - nugget shooter forums

shaker table plans - diy projects - nugget shooter forums

I am looking for plans to build a shaker table. I saw one on Chris Ralphs web site, but there are no actual plans posted, just a general description. I would like to build one that is smaller in size. If anyone has any ideas, I would appreciate the help. Thanks.

Down sizing it would not be a problem as long as we keep the size proportions in order. I've checked my files and I am having my hard rock partner check his for the plans. There are a couple companies that make a small lab table, 2 foot by 4 foot, that might be right for you. I'll check the Mining Journal for their phone numbers.

Thanks for your help. We have a claim in AZ that produces well, but it is very fine gold and a shaker table would be very helpful in our recovery process. Looking forward to heraring from you. Thank you again and have a great new year.

4.The cam I would use for such a small table would be nothing more than a good quality pulley. Drill a hole close to the outside of the pully, that way you can use different size weights to control the amount of bounce you want. Simple bolt with lead weights will work. When you get the right bounce you wont be changing it all the time anyway. The pulley is fastened to the underside of the table.

I do know one thing for sure!! there not that easy to build. I had a hell of a time trying to figure it all out. If you break it down into each assy. and use quality stuff you will find that it is a great project for the guy who likes to tinker. The little tables dont sell for a grand because there easy!!If you start one and have a question, give me a call 253-299-6423 SteveT

Thank you all for your efforts and information. I will look into the premade ones and see if I can get one for a good price. I see them from time to time on the internet, I will keep my eyes open for used ones as well. Thanks again and Happy New Year to all!

I've been searching for the plans that the British Geological Society said they have for the shaker table. They do not have it on their site anymore and I noticed you have them. Would you share them with me? I would appreciate it very much.

4.The cam I would use for such a small table would be nothing more than a good quality pulley. Drill a hole close to the outside of the pully, that way you can use different size weights to control the amount of bounce you want. Simple bolt with lead weights will work. When you get the right bounce you wont be changing it all the time anyway. The pulley is fastened to the underside of the table.

I do know one thing for sure!! there not that easy to build. I had a hell of a time trying to figure it all out. If you break it down into each assy. and use quality stuff you will find that it is a great project for the guy who likes to tinker. The little tables dont sell for a grand because there easy!!If you start one and have a question, give me a call 253-299-6423 SteveT

I noticed you have experience with making a shaker table. Detailed info is so hard to find. I'm curious to know what works for you. The table layout, riffle details, angles, depth, shape, location, length, etc. are all somewhat mysterious. I'm a machinist and can do it all nicely but want to get it done right the first time.

free woodworking plans: more depth on the shaker furniture download | popular woodworking magazine

free woodworking plans: more depth on the shaker furniture download | popular woodworking magazine

If you have found your way onto the Woodworking Daily blog list, it may have been via our free woodworking plans page. If not, be sure to check it out and download a few more, especially the latest one on Shaker style furniture that is packed with general information on end table plans, coffee table plans, dining table plans and an overall table plan template.

I like Shaker furniture because it plays well with other styles. That means it will withstand the style test over many years, no matter what other furniture you acquire or make. And if you make it right, Shaker style furniture will of course withstand the other damages that come with time. I mean wear and tear.

When it comes to tables, knowledge of basic woodworking joints is key to preventing wear and tear. Dont worry. Im not going to go into a treatise on joinery. But I do want to point you to a helpful blog post from Glen Huey for this particular Shaker table project. There are dozens of ways to complete mortise and tenon furniture. Glen has created a mortise and tenon jig that is cheap, works well and speeds the building process. So be sure to visit that post and download the tenon jig plan (free).

Once youve completed that dining table, come back to the original free download and re-read Bob Langs section on mortise and tenon furniture. I always find that these abstract views make a lot more sense after I have built something that includes the technique in question. This section on different types of tenons for furniture is valuable. Bob discusses not only the types, but why a woodworker uses them. Note for example that the mitered-end variety is not for creating a mitered joint within the joint, but rather to relieve a little extra space within the leg.

The other big takeaway from this project plan, in my opinion, is the discussion of wood movement. Wood movement always matters, but especially when dealing with a wide piece of stock or edge-joined surface. This section of the download can be useful not only in building tables, but also when you start to look at how to build a desk.

So, in summary, we have a few well-curated freebies on the download page from woodworking ideas to wood furniture design and we are adding more every few weeks. Ill follow each upload with a post like this one to offer you a little more depth. Be sure to share this post with your woodworking friends so they can stay in the loop!

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.

You are not talking liquid moisture when you talk wood movement. You are talking humidity. All wood regardless of age and degree of dryness has a residual moisture level. Common numbers thrown about is 19% and 6%. The percentage is the percent volume by weight that the moisture makes up of the wood. So at 19% moisture content, 19% of the roughly 25 pounds per cubic foot of wood of your table is actually water. If your table weighs 100lbs then 19 pounds of that is water. As that water leaves the wood, the wood tends to move (shrink or swell). The opposite is also true. If your wood was very dry, say 6% MC then if your house is humid and the table absorbs some of that humidity, then the wood again tends to move. There are no coating systems completely impervious to moisture and most of us dont coat the unseen sides thoroughly enough to make the wood completely impervious. Even then, the relative difference between the moisture level inside the wood and the atmosphere could cause problems.

I have seen in a number of publications eg Flexner on Finishing that applying a varnish finish seals the timber and does not let liquid furniture polish/cleaner into the pores. If this is so, then how is it that moisture enters and causes seasonal expansion/contraction?

how to make shaker cabinet doors

how to make shaker cabinet doors

Shaker doors are a popular sight on kitchen and bathroom cabinets, as well as in laundry rooms, offices, and any room of the house that has cabinets. With their clean lines and precise shadows, Shaker doors project a classic feeling that's tempered with a modern air. It's no wonder that Shaker doors are equally at home with both traditional and contemporary architectural styles.

It's also fortunate that Shaker cabinet doors are easy to build. If you can imagine a picture frame with a solid insert, you've got the basic idea of Shaker cabinet door construction. The main tool you need is a table saw and the only material you need is one-by-three lumber and veneer plywood.

The look of a Shaker cabinet door is that of a framed picture. Yet, a Shaker cabinet door's frame does not rest on the front of the solid center panel. Instead, the panel is inserted into the center of this frame within grooves.

If you're watching costs, you can use a softwood like pine, spruce, or fir. Softwoods are easier to cut but aren't as durable in the longterm. For a more substantial build, choose a hardwood such as oak, maple, or birch. Hardwoods are more difficult to cut and are more expensive but make for a solid door.

Shaker cabinet doors feature a 1/4-thick center panel. Choose any type of sheet wood or veneer panel, as long as it's 1/4-inch thick. Factory-applied veneer on the wood that matches the frame wood can be stained and coated or painted.

Shaker cabinet doors use mortise and tenon joinery. A mortise is a female groove in the wood; a tenon is a male projection in an adjacent board that fits into the female groove. Mortise and tenon joinery lets you construct cabinet doors without fasteners.

Make two cuts to produce two stiles, each measuring 23-1/2 inches. Cut two more boards, each at 13-1/4, for the rails. These boards will form a cabinet door that is 23-1/2 inches high by 17-1/2 inches wide.

Raise the table saw blade height to 3/8-inch above the level of the table. Move the saw fence (or guide) until the blade is centered along a test piece of wood. So, for a 1-inch nominal thick board (3/4-inch true dimension), the center point would be 0.375-inch. Turn on the saw and run the test piece of wood through to check the depth of the groove and whether it is centered. If everything looks correct, cut grooves on the two stiles and two rails (one side only).

Because a single saw blade is not 1/4-inch thick, it is necessary to adjust the saw fence and cut the stiles and rails again. Move the saw fence slightly closer (about 1/16-inch). Run the test piece through, flip the board, then run it a second time. The intention is to equalize the cuts on both sides of the existing groove. Check that the plywood inset panel fits snugly in the groove. If it is too tight, slightly adjust the fence and cut again. When everything is correct, run the stiles and rails through the saw.

Use a clamp to add a scrap block of wood to the saw fence 2-1/2 inches away from the blade. Using one cabinet rail as a guide, lower the saw blade until it is just below the groove of the stile. Use the Speed Square to make a mark 3/8-inch back from the end of each rail. With a rail against the saw's sliding guide, cut away all material on each side of the rail to create a tenon. Test that the tenon fits into one of the stile's grooves. Cut all four tenons.

Dry-fit the stiles and rails loosely so that you can see the tenons fitting into the grooves. With the pencil, lightly mark the depth of the grooves at eight points (two at each corner). Measure the size of this rectangle with the straight edge.

new portable shaker table - gold prospecting - nugget shooter forums

new portable shaker table - gold prospecting - nugget shooter forums

It is homemade with lot's of care. I am making a new video showing the table and how I use it. first part kinda sucks I am rerunning the dirt from the last video and the fox got most of it out plus the sun in now making it hard to see the gold on the table . So needless to say the first part doesn't so a lot of gold on the table. but the second half I clean a snuffer bottle out and it still works just fine. The table works a lot better bolted to concrete and not a 1/2 board staked to the ground. It moves the dirt faster down the table when mounted firmly. Once I get the table back to the shop better videos to come.

So let me get this straight...Jarrod you made this?? (not the video, but the shaker table??) you definitely need to back that camera up so we can see the whole thing, preferrably with camera on a tripod. I would like to size this up a bit further before congratulating you on one of the hardest gold classifiers to duplicate or make "homemade". A homemade shaker...wow!!

There is no molds or fibreglass work in this table. But I am working on a way smaller one that I may make a mold of the top. Ether way the top's have a lot of money in them. machine time or man hour's=$$$$$

shaker style diy end table

shaker style diy end table

This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase from one of the links, I may make a small commission at NO EXTRA COST to you. This helps keep the tutorials and plans free here at Bitterroot DIY. Thank you for your support! See my full disclosurehere.

Alright, here it is table #4 of the four part end table series! In case you missed it over on my Instagram page, weve been considering new end tables for our living room but couldnt decide on a style, so I just went ahead and built a few! This table is the most detailed of the four and would also make a great nightstand if youre in the market!

Ill be honest, I ran into a few issues during assembly on this one basically I took this thing apart and assembled it like 57 different ways before I figured out the best way to do it. But dont worry! I wrote the plans the correct way and you shouldnt have any issues! Nothing like winging it to remind you NOT to wing it haha. But it worked out in the end.

Use wood glue and two 1 1/4 pocket hole screws on each end of the 1x2s to attach them to the legs. Position the 1x2s so theyre flush with the outside of the legs and face the pocket holes toward the inside to best hide them.

Join both frames together with 1x2s in the front and back. Again, position the 1x2s flush with the outside of the legs and face the pocket holes toward the inside of the frame to best hide them. Use wood glue and two 1 1/4 pocket hole screws on each end of the 1x2s.

Dont forget to flip that bottom front 12 horizontal! It will be part of the bottom shelf when you put the plywood in place. Line the bottom of it up with the bottom of the rest of the 1x2s (2 up from the ground).

I went with a shaker style cabinet door for this end table. I wrote a whole separate post on my go-to method to build shaker style cabinet doors, but there are a million ways to do it. If youre an experienced woodworker, feel free to build it as you see fit. If youre interested in how I did it, see my post on how to build shaker cabinet doors.

Attach the cabinet door with 2 butt hinges and install a small magnetic door catch behind the front frame to stop the door flush with the frame when it closes. I used a small scrap 12 as a block to attach the magnetic catch.

Lastly, attach the tabletop to the base. You can screw directly through the top 2x2s into the bottom of the tabletop, but youll have to go at a slight angle since a standard size drill wont fit between the top shelf and tabletop.

I used small 3/4 corner braces and attached them to the bottom of the tabletop first, then put it in place on the frame and screwed them to the top 22 frame. I wouldnt recommend this method since it was such a pain to get the corner braces positioned correctly, but thats what I did!

Thanks! I sanded it to 120 grit, applied pre-stain then whitewash pickling and wiped it off. Let the whitewash pickling dry. Then apply early american stain and wipe it off immediately. That should do it! The white wash takes the yellowy color out of the pine, but you have to make sure its pretty dry before applying the stain so the stain pigments dont just separate when you put it over the whitewash. I usually let it dry for about 20 minutes before going over with the early american

Hi! We love these plans! Such a cute table! Could you lease give us inside cabinet dimensions? We want to use it to store vinyl records and cant tell for certain how big the inside cabinet is with the door shut. Thanks!

Thank you! As I started I noticed I had a lot of scraps in almost the dimensions you referenced so I kept it true early American and used what I had and modified as I went. Table top and 2x2s are oak taken from my wifes great grandparents barn so I hand planed and scraped to smooth and used left over birch plywood for the sides. Im torn n how to stain it now. My thoughts were natural on the oak and then play with mixes until I get the plywood close. Any suggestions?

Is the 22 actual size? Or are you using 1.51.5? The measurements didnt work out when we put it together with 22. Also curious how you got yours with squared edges, we can not find them anywhere. Thank you.

The ACTUAL dimensions of dimensional lumber (2x2s, 2x4s, 4x4s, basically anything you buy at a normal home improvement store not a sawmill) is different from their dimensional name. So 2x2s are actually 1.5 x 1.5. 2x4s are actually 1.5 x 3.5. And so on. You can look up charts to see what the ACTUAL dimensions are for each size of dimensional lumber. Dimensional lumber is named for the dimensions its cut to before they run it through the planer and send it to the store.

Me and my boyfriend just finished assembling this end table. We modified it slightly and installed outlets. I am super excited to get it stained and sealed. Thank you for sharing your plans for free! Your pictures and video were super helpful to us (we are mega amateurs lol).

Thanks for the great plans. We would like to use some beadboard instead of plywood for the front panel of the cabinet. We also have a narrower space to put this as a nightstand so will change the cut plan. Can you think of anything in particular we should keep in mind as we modify things? I am a real newbie at woodworking but my husband and I got excited by a headboard we recently made. You make it look like so much fun and so doable.

Bitterroot DIY is meant for entertainment and general purposes only. Although we do our best to keep information up to date and accurate, we make no warranties, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, or suitability with respect to the website, or information and products on the website. Any use of the information from this website is to be used at your own risk. In no event will Tylynn Sattler or Bitterroot DIY be held liable for any loss or damage (including, but not limited to, indirect or consequetial loss, damage, personal injury, or death) from using or with connection to the use of this website. Please follow all manufacturers safety instructions and consult a professional before attempting a project you are unsure about.

Bitterroot DIY is a participant participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking toamazon.com. Please see our full disclosurehere. Bitterroot DIY also runs targeted ads and uses cookies. Please review my full disclosure,terms of use,privacy policy, andcookie policy here. Thanks for visiting!

Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.

Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.

60 diy coffee table plans and ideas with form and function

60 diy coffee table plans and ideas with form and function

Building your own coffee table is rewarding and fun! There are so many DIY coffee table projects out there that will walk you through the process step-by-step. You might feel that building a coffee table is something only professional woodworkers can do, but its not true! Anyone can get it done with a bit of effort, patience and dont forget to smile!

Designing and making a coffee table can be a complicated yet cool experience, and depending on which DIY coffee table idea you pick, it could also be a quick and easy project! Decide what youre looking for for your home, and pick your perfect DIY coffee table here!

We saw simple and minimalistic coffee tables, abstract and interesting ones, rustic and charming tables and even kid-friendly ones! Take a look at your living room and try to imagine what kind of coffee table would fit. Maybe one with extra storage? Maybe something thats lightweight and easily movable?

diy shaker cabinet doors step by step instructions and tips

diy shaker cabinet doors step by step instructions and tips

Shaker style cabinets are a true classic and reflect the craftsmanship of old times. However, the simplicity of straight lines, the clean look and the versatility, make Shaker cabinets a popular choice for modern kitchen designs.

DIY Shaker cabinet doors are relatively easy to make. What you need is oak strips, plywood, wood glue and a table saw and when you realize that this is a cheap kitchen renovation project, you may give it some consideration. Flat kitchen cabinet doors can be easily turned into eye-catching Shaker style cabinets in a weekend. Although the traditional Shaker cabinets have a 3/4 inch strip, a 1/4-inch strip will give you the same look and appearance, so it is really up to you to decide the right width. Choose the right paint color for your updated cabinets and you will be amazed from the completely new and stylish look of the kitchen. Shaker cabinet doors are strong and attractive and can be made with tools that you most probably have in the garage. You will need a router or router table only if you want to trim the outer edge of the doors but otherwise you can stay with the clean simple look. DIY Shaker cabinet doors step by step instructions DIY Shaker cabinet doors is a project that requires some initial planning. You need some space to work, preferably in the garage or the yard. You need to remove the cabinet doors and the hinges from all the doors. Sand the front of the door to remove old lacquer, dirt or paint. Be careful to sand parallel to the grain until the door is smooth. Carefully measure the sides of the door that are parallel to the grain. And cut two pieces of 2 1/4-inch with a miter saw. Apply glue on the back of the strips and place on each side of the cabinet door. Shoot a pin nail centered 1 inch from the top and 1 inch from the bottom. Hold both strips with clamps until the glue is completely dry. To make the horizontal lines, you need to measure the distance between the hardwood strips at the top and bottom and cut hardwood strips for the top and bottom. Apply glue at the back and place the horizontal strips. Shoot a pin nail through the strips and place clamps on them as well until the glue is dry. Sand the corners and apply a primer, paint, lacquer or stain in the color that you have chosen to match the interior of the kitchen. Published by DIY Masters 2016

What you need is oak strips, plywood, wood glue and a table saw and when you realize that this is a cheap kitchen renovation project, you may give it some consideration. Flat kitchen cabinet doors can be easily turned into eye-catching Shaker style cabinets in a weekend. Although the traditional Shaker cabinets have a 3/4 inch strip, a 1/4-inch strip will give you the same look and appearance, so it is really up to you to decide the right width. Choose the right paint color for your updated cabinets and you will be amazed from the completely new and stylish look of the kitchen. Shaker cabinet doors are strong and attractive and can be made with tools that you most probably have in the garage. You will need a router or router table only if you want to trim the outer edge of the doors but otherwise you can stay with the clean simple look.

DIY Shaker cabinet doors is a project that requires some initial planning. You need some space to work, preferably in the garage or the yard. You need to remove the cabinet doors and the hinges from all the doors. Sand the front of the door to remove old lacquer, dirt or paint. Be careful to sand parallel to the grain until the door is smooth. Carefully measure the sides of the door that are parallel to the grain. And cut two pieces of 2 1/4-inch with a miter saw. Apply glue on the back of the strips and place on each side of the cabinet door. Shoot a pin nail centered 1 inch from the top and 1 inch from the bottom. Hold both strips with clamps until the glue is completely dry. To make the horizontal lines, you need to measure the distance between the hardwood strips at the top and bottom and cut hardwood strips for the top and bottom. Apply glue at the back and place the horizontal strips. Shoot a pin nail through the strips and place clamps on them as well until the glue is dry. Sand the corners and apply a primer, paint, lacquer or stain in the color that you have chosen to match the interior of the kitchen. Published by DIY Masters 2016

DIY Shaker cabinet doors is a project that requires some initial planning. You need some space to work, preferably in the garage or the yard. You need to remove the cabinet doors and the hinges from all the doors. Sand the front of the door to remove old lacquer, dirt or paint. Be careful to sand parallel to the grain until the door is smooth. Carefully measure the sides of the door that are parallel to the grain.

And cut two pieces of 2 1/4-inch with a miter saw. Apply glue on the back of the strips and place on each side of the cabinet door. Shoot a pin nail centered 1 inch from the top and 1 inch from the bottom. Hold both strips with clamps until the glue is completely dry. To make the horizontal lines, you need to measure the distance between the hardwood strips at the top and bottom and cut hardwood strips for the top and bottom. Apply glue at the back and place the horizontal strips. Shoot a pin nail through the strips and place clamps on them as well until the glue is dry. Sand the corners and apply a primer, paint, lacquer or stain in the color that you have chosen to match the interior of the kitchen.

Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.

Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website.

Get in Touch with Mechanic
Related Products
Recent Posts
  1. table height adjustment with two motors and three segment 1600n

  2. shaking table vector

  3. calcium carbonate shaking table in birmingham

  4. gold processing shaker table vancouver bc

  5. shaking table 43

  6. shaking table in spanish

  7. shaking rigors

  8. shake table science buddies

  9. small shaking table in lautoka

  10. accura tablet crashing machine

  11. portable magnetite stone crushing machine in britain

  12. roller mill machine principle

  13. stone suppliers crushed

  14. used iron ore jaw crusher manufacturer tripura

  15. what is the prize of stone crusher machine

  16. chinaware ball mill hobby

  17. jordan tangible benefits large gangue stone crushing machine manufacturer

  18. largest limestone mining company

  19. economic large pyrrhotite stone crusher sell at a loss in islamabad

  20. geflotation cell for concentrate fine gold from supplier