The sand washing machine is one of the washing equipment especially designed for artificial sand and natural sand. In general, there are two kinds of the sand washing machine: spiral sand washing machine and wheel type sand washing machine.
It can remove the impurities that covered in the surface of sand and aggregate and destroy the vapor layer wrapped around the sand particles, so as to high-efficiently clean and dry the sand and aggregate.
During the operation process, users will inevitably encounter a variety of faults. Fote Heavy Machinery shares some solutions to the common faults of the sand washing machine, hoping you can get help.
As a leading mining machinery manufacturer and exporter in China, we are always here to provide you with high quality products and better services. Welcome to contact us through one of the following ways or visit our company and factories.
Based on the high quality and complete after-sales service, our products have been exported to more than 120 countries and regions. Fote Machinery has been the choice of more than 200,000 customers.
We all know washer and dryer pedestals are VERY expensive and are ridiculously priced. You can certainly buy another washer for the price of the two pedestals; or perhaps a new refrigerator! This instructible shows you how to make yourself a cheap pedestal or stand for your washer and dryer. The advantages of having a pedestal or stands for your dryer and washer is that you eliminate the need to bend over to pick up your laundry. Also you can place items under the pedestal such as soap, laundry detergents, etc. The pedestals are a practical accessory for front loading washing machines and dryers.
Materials: Plywood (the thicker the better. mine is about an inch thick) 2" x 4" wood Drill or hammer Saw Screws or nails ( 3 inch screws/nails, 2 inch screws/nails) Glossy paintAll items can be bought at your local hardware stores. I got all these at home depot. The plywood cost $15 since it was very thick. The 3 pieces of 2" x 4" x 10" cost $2.35 each. Since I already measured the base of both my washer and dryer, I went a head and had home depot cut the plywood for an extra .15cents per cut thus eliminating back pains and muscle sore from cutting the plywood myself. I highly recommend doing this.
1. Make measurements around the base of your washer and dryer. My measurement was 27" around, a perfect square. Mark this measurement ion the plywood. This will serve as the top panel where the washer and dryer would sit. 27" x 27". (have Home Depot cut it)2. Make measurements for the height of your pedestal. In this instructible, the height for my pedestal was 15". Most pedestals are around this height range. 3. Mark your measurement for height on the plywood and also your length. This will serve as the side panels. In this case two 15" x 27". (again, have Home Depot cut it)4. Measure and mark the 2" x 4"s. Two 25" for the length and four 13" for the height. The four 13" would serve as the leg support . *note* 25" is the length because the plywood was about an inch thick. Depending on the thickness of your plywood, you just have to make the necessary adjustments. You don't want the side panels protruding on the side. We want to seamlessly connect the woods together. To do this, just subtract the thickness of the 2 side panels from the main length of the base of your washer or dryer. That will be the length of your 2x4's. Hope that made sense.
1. Cut the plywood-- Top Panel and Side panels.2. Cut the 2" x4"s.3. Connect the one 25" with the two 13". You can use nails or screws which ever you feel comfortable. I use screws this way I prevent the would from cracking. Also I drilled a hole before I screwed it in.4. Do the same with the other 25" and two 13".5. Connect the 2 x 4's into the side panels. Secure using screws or nails.6. Place the top panel in place. Secure using screws and nails.7. To cover the back, measure from each end of the side panels. That will be your size. Height will still be 15".
Now paint that beautiful work of art to match your washer and dryer. You can brush or spray paint it! Which ever you choose, be creative.If you feel that you don't need to use the space underneath the washer and dryer, just measure and cut a piece of plywood and nail or screw it in place. That size would be 15" x 27" (in my case). After that, You are are done! You've basically have made a platform!If your washer and dryer are inside your house, instead of painting the wood, you might want to consider carpeting the top and side panels. This should help minimize the noise radiated from the washer onto the wood. You can also, instead of painting, cover it with some kind of vinyl, or tolex. Have fun and be creative.
And finally, enjoy your work of art. Say good bye to back pains and most of all to those ridiculously priced pedestals. Best of all, the total cost for this project? Less than $25. PRICELESS!!!Now if I could just find the time to make the drawers... to be continued!.
Ive never thought about that. Both washer and drier are still kicking it in without any problems. I figured once they both die, Id throw everything out and update to the larger washer and drier that dont need any stand. I guess if you have to take them out you'd put tiny sticks or pensil or sliders under the frame and roll/slide them out using the pensils or sliders until they pop out where 2 people can lift it out of the frame.
Question - we just bought front load washer and dryer and the guys who delivered said that, since the pedestal it is to go on isn't the Samsung factory one, they wouldn't install it (concerns that due to agitation.movement the machine would fall off). Seems like a Samsung CYA answer but as I've searched seems like a lot of people use non-manufacturer pedestals. Any of you have issues with machine movement or do you do something to secure the machine to the pedestal? Sorry of this isn't the right forum on which to post this but was the closest I could find that was relevant. Thanks in advance.
i built these in December of 2011, and they're still working great. I built them because my basement floods a couple of inches sometimes and the open front has been great from removing water. They're incredibly sturdy as well and I can stand and jump on them and the vibrations of the machines haven't phased them at all. Good stuff and thank you for the design!!
Thanks for a great simple design! I loved being able to customize for my space and mismatched washer and dryer. My concrete floor was so uneven I had to add adjustable feet to the bottom of the pedestals to level them. I also added L shaped blocks around the machines' legs to keep them from walking off the pedestals... You know... just in case.
banker says: Apr 26, 2010. 6:52 PM Why do you need a pedestal? Can't you just sit them on the floor? As others mentioned, there are a few reasons: Ergonomics and flood protection are obvious. For myself, I purchased a new washer and dryer for the house I rent. Once they were delivered, I quickly found that: 1) the dryer air out vent was about a foot too low to reach the stock hose connection. Easy fix if it was the only problem. Since it was not (the following problem also plagued me), a pedestal was the logical fix. and 2) The drain for the washer was about a foot too high as well. I really couldn't lower the drain (when I tried, sewage from the toilet would sometimes back up and overflow from the washer drain - they were off the same pipe), The problem with the drain being that high was not just a matter of having a hose long enough to reach up there. The pump has to work extra hard to send the dirty wash water that extra foot up. When it finishes, there is still a lot of water left in the drain tube/hose, which back flows into the machine (gravity). The pump also has to work much harder to expel the waste water, fighting gravity and the installer said if I connected it as such, it would void my warranty. Raising the units onto a platform killed two birds with one stone, for me. I was able to pull it off for about $30, total investment. I bought a sheet of 5/8" particle board for $12 (had the hardware store cut it down to 30" x 60"), 6 of the 12" x 8" x 16" concrete blocks for $1.68 each (about $10), a tube of Liquid Nails ($2.27) and some blue 2"+ concrete screws $4... I sat the 6 blocks on their 12" sides, 1 at each of the 4 corners and the other 2 in the front and back center of where the board (and therefore machines) would sit. Next I spread some Liquid Nails on the block tops and finally drilled pilot holes through the wood and into the concrete blocks. I drove the concrete screws down through the wood, into the blocks until they were flush. Having sat the platform where the machines were originally and then put the machines on top, I made sure to re-level them, afterwards. So far there has been to vibration or walking issue, but I could easily add a lip/guard around the edge of the wood if needed to keep them in place. All in all, I spent about $30 and a few hours time (including the time it took to go to the hardware store). Or I could have paid $229.00 times 2 plus tax for the manufacturers pedestals. To me it was a no brainer. Nobody sees the machines or the pedestal as they are in my basement, but even if they did I am not ashamed of it. It's very practical and really doesn't look all that bad.
I believe your design would be alot stronger with plywood sids and back. This helps distribute all of the weight and vibration to the floor. I would also build the sides like a miniture wall with a bottom plate (2x4) and the same on the back and front. Now you have a frame into which you can build a drawer.
Building your own pedestal won't but not having the washer unit properly leveled will void the warranty. These front loading designs are very mechanically complex and have to be balanced just so, especially the (relatively) inexpensive ones. If not, water does not drain and balance is thrown off. I have a friend who built his own platform for his front loader. It failed and they sent a repair guy. Fortunately, he just happened to be moving and he had took the platform down. The repair said the unit was level (as the top loaders were) and that have caused it to beat itself to death and collect stagnate water. The repair cost would have been 80% of the unit's initial cost which was pushing $1000. In looking at his reams of warranty material, my friend found out he wasn't supposed to even move the unit himself within the house but instead had to have it professionally shifted and leveled. So check your paperwork carefully before moving or otherwise working with a front loading residential washer. Really a stupid design unless you're making a heavy industrial unit. You know those who make and repair appliances send their congressmen a big box of chocolates every year for the favor of mandating these monsters
If you have small children, you MUST anchor these machines to the pedestal and floor. A young child will hang off the door if left open. In fact, all large furniture in your home should be anchored to the wall!
I made something similar, and the concrete floor they are on means they shuffle around a little bit. Occasionally they will get close to each other and start making a lot of noise. I think I just need to put something soft (like carpet squares) underneath to dampen that energy.
Have you ever wondered how your coffee machine works to prepare the best, most delicious cup of coffee for you every morning? Do you ever think about how your coffee maker gets its job done day in and day out? Well, if you think about how it produces excellent coffee and how it does it every day, youve probably also had thoughts regarding its well-being.
So, let us ask you two more questions; have you ever taken time out of your everyday life to clean the excess build-up inside of your coffee appliance? Have you considered using a homemade descaling solution?
We know that making a DIY descaling solution or a DIY descale Keurig solution may not be something youre good at, but you can get over that hump. Here, youll find some options to create the best cleaning agent for your coffee maker.
Youll learn here to use ingredients like white vinegar, lemon juice, hot water, baking soda, citric acid, and white wine vinegar for descaling. Get ready, because the taste of your coffee will get you tingling while you sip it!
If youre into creating your DIY descaling solutions, and DIY homemade recipes in general, you probably already know that vinegar is an essential ingredient in almost all recipes. It also helps that vinegar is very acidic, therefore making it one of the best substances to use in combating the limescale of your coffee appliances.
Mix ingredients and place the cleaning solution into the machine you are trying to clean. Let it sit and rinse well. This solution can be used on the outside of the device, too. Once finished, check the areas you are cleaning and repeat the cycle if necessary.
Keep in mind; vinegar will get the job done. Use this solution as a home remedy on any Keurig coffee machine or espresso maker. Its ideal to use vinegar as the best coffee stain remover for your coffee pot and for coffee spills on your clothing, too.
As stated above, vinegar is an excellent limescale build-up remover to clean a drip coffee maker. However, if you dont want to smell the scent of vinegar for hours, we suggest you go with citric acid as your cleaning agent. Also, using citric acid will ensure you taste that coffee flavor next time you put your cup of joe through its brew cycle.
Rinse clean and run a cycle with fresh water only to ensure that all debris is gone from the machine. If youd like the solution to be stronger, mix the citric acid pellets with half a gallon of water.
For the best homemade descaling solution for Keurig, try using water softening pellets. Though you may need a water softening system to get this job done, we can assure you that it is the most time efficient Keurig descaling solution youll find.
Whats more, is that this simple solution is the most cost-effective method and its easy to do. Follow the instructions that come with your water softening system. Do not miss an important step and be sure to fill up to the line with water softening pellets as directed.
Baking soda can help with the interior and the exterior of your coffee machine; in fact, baking soda can clean your k-cup machine, your water reservoir, your pod holder, and your water filter all in one shot!
Grab the coffee carafe from the coffee pot and fill it with water. Add the baking soda and swirl the powder around in the water until dissolved into equal parts. Pour the solution into the reserve tank and continue to make coffee as you usually would.
Instead of going to health food stores or grocery stores to find an over-the-counter solution to clean your coffee pot, start using lemon juice. Not only is lemon juice very time efficient, but its also extremely affordable, and the scent left behind is bearable.
To get the best results, mix equal parts water with equal parts lemon juice. You can use freshly squeezed lemon juice or lemon juice from the bottle. However, keep in mind that once youre done, youll be left with an intense lemon taste; be sure to let the coffee machine go through several cycles before brewing some coffee.
Lemon juice is also a natural way for how to clean grout with ugly mold or hard water stains and many other household items. Spritz some lemon juice and water on the grout and gently scrub away to leave your light-colored grout gleaming again. If you have colored grout, take care, as lemon juice may cause discoloration. You may want to use another method for grout cleaning.
Youve discovered how to clean and descale your coffee appliances with the help of ingredients found around the house. Youve learned how to make your cup of coffee taste great every day by regularly using safe, non-chemically related cleaning products.
Silica sand low in iron is much in demand for glass, ceramic and pottery use, and for many of these applications clean, white sand is desired. Impurities such as clay slime, iron stain, and heavy minerals including iron oxides, garnet, chromite, zircon, and other accessory minerals must not be present. Chromium, for example, must not be present, even in extremely small amounts, in order for the sand to be acceptable to certain markets. Feldspars and mica are also objectionable. Generally, iron content must be reduced to 0.030% Fe2O3 or less.
Silica sand for making glass, pottery and ceramics must meet rigid specifications and generally standard washing schemes are inadequate for meeting these requirements. Sand for the glass industry must contain not more than 0.03% Fe2O3. Concentrating tables will remove free iron particles but iron stained and middling particles escape gravity methods. Flotation has been very successfully applied in the industry for making very low iron glass sand suitable even for optical requirements.Sub-A Flotation Machines are extensively used in this industry for they give the selectivity desired and are constructed to withstand the corrosive pulp conditions normally encountered (acid circuits) and also the abrasive action of the coarse, granular, slime free washed sand.
The flowsheet illustrates the more common methods of sand beneficiation. Silica may be obtained from sandstone, dry sand deposits and wet sand deposits. Special materials handling methods are applicable in each case.
The silica bearing sandstone must be mined or quarried much in the manner for handling hard rock. The mined ore is reduced by a Jaw Crusher to about 1 size for the average small tonnage operation. For larger scale operations two-stage crushing is advisable.
The crushed ore is reduced to natural sand grain size by Rod Milling. Generally, one pass treatment through the Rod Mill is sufficient. Grinding is done wet at dilutions in excess of normal grinding practice. A Spiral Screen fitted to the mill discharge removes the plus 20 mesh oversize which either goes to waste or is conveyed back to the mill feed for retreatment.
Sand from such deposits is generally loaded into trucks and transported dry to the mill receiving bin. It is then fed on to a vibrating screen with sufficient water to wash the sand through the 20 mesh stainless screen cloth. Water sprays further wash the oversize which goes to waste or for other use. The minus 20 mesh is the product going to further treatment.
The sand and water slurry for one of the three fore-mentioned methods is classified or dewatered. This may be conveniently done by cyclones or by mechanical dewatering classifiers such as the drag, screw, or rake classifiers.
From classification the sand, at 70 to 75% solids, is introduced into a Attrition Scrubber for removal of surface stain from the sand grains. This is done by actual rubbing of the wet sand grains, one against another, in an intensely agitated high density pulp. Most of the work is done among the sand grains not against the rotating propellers.
For this service rubber covered turbine type propellers of special design and pitch are used. Peripheral speed is relatively low, but it is necessary to introduce sufficient power to keep the entire mass in violent movement without any lost motion or splash. The degree of surface filming and iron oxide stain will determine the retention time required in the Scrubber.
The scrubbed sand from the Attrition Machine is diluted with water to 25-30% solids and pumped to a second set of cyclones for further desliming and removal of slimes released in the scrubber. In some cases the sand at this point is down to the required iron oxide specifications by scrubbing only. In this case, the cyclone or classifier sand product becomes final product.
Deslimed sand containing mica, feldspar, and iron bearing heavy minerals can be successfully cleaned to specifications by Sub-A Flotation. Generally this is done in an acid pulp circuit. Conditioning with H2SO4 and iron promoting reagents is most effective at high density, 70-75% solids. To minimize conditioning and assure proper reagentizing a two-stage Heavy Duty Open Conditioner with Rubber Covered Turbine Propellers is used. This unit has two tanks and mechanisms driven from one motor.
The conditioned pulp is diluted with water to 25-30% solids and fed to a Sub-A Flotation Machine especially designed for handling the abrasive, slime free sand. Acid proof construction in most cases is necessary as the pulps may be corrosive from the presence of sulfuric acid. A pH of 2.5-3.0 is common. Wood construction with molded rubber and 304 or 316 stainless steel are the usual materials of construction. In the flotation step the impurity minerals are floated off in a froth product which is diverted to waste. The clean, contaminent-free silica sand discharges from the end of the machine.
The flotation tailing product at 25 to 30% solids contains the clean silica sand. A SRL Pump delivers it to a Dewatering Classifier for final dewatering. A mechanical classifier is generally preferable for this step as the sand can be dewatered down to 15 to 20% moisture content for belt conveying to stock pile or drainage bins. In some cases the sand is pumped directly to drainage bins but in such cases it would be preferable to place a cyclone in the circuit to eliminate the bulk of the water. Sand filters of top feed or horizontal pan design may also be used for more complete water removal on a continuous basis.
Dry grinding to minus 100 or minus 200 mesh is done in Mills with silica or ceramic lining and using flint pebbles or high density ceramic or porcelain balls. This avoids any iron contamination from the grinding media.
In some cases it may be necessary to place high intensity magnetic separators in the circuit ahead of the grinding mill to remove last traces of iron which may escape removal in the wet treatment scrubbing and flotation steps. Iron scale and foreign iron particles are also removed by the magnetic separator.
In general most silica sands can be beneficiated to acceptable specifications by the flowsheet illustrated. Reagent cost for flotation is low, being in the order of 5 to 10 cents per ton of sand treated. If feldspars and mica must also be removed, reagent costs may approach a maximum of 50 cents per ton.
Laboratory test work is advisable to determine the exact treatment steps necessary. Often, attrition scrubbing and desliming will produce very low iron silica sand suitable for the glass trade. Complete batch and pilot plant test facilities are available to test your sand and determine the exact size of equipment required and the most economical reagent combinations.
Silica sand for making glass, pottery and ceramics must meet rigid specifications and generally standard washing schemes are inadequate for meeting these requirements. Sand for the glass industry must contain not more than 0.03% Fe2O3. Concentrating tables will remove free iron particles but iron stained and middling particles escape gravity methods. Flotation has been very successfully applied in the industry for making very low iron glass sand suitable even for optical requirements.
Sub-A Flotation Machines are extensively used in this industry for they give the selectivity desired and are constructed to withstand the corrosive pulp conditions normally encountered (acid circuits) and also the abrasive action of the coarse, granular, slime free washed sand.
The flowsheet illustrated is typical for production of glasssand by flotation. Generally large tonnages are treated, forexample, 30 to 60 tons per hour. Most sand deposits can be handled by means of a dredge and the sand pumped to the treatment plant. Sandstone deposits are also being treated and may require elaborate mining methods, aerial tramways, crushers, and wet grinding. Rod Mills with grate discharges serve for wet grinding to reduce the crushed sandstone to the particle size before the sand grains were cementedtogether in the deposit. Rod milling is replacing the older conventional grinding systems such as edge runner wet mills or Chilean type mills.
Silica sand pumped from the pit is passed over a screen, either stationary, revolving or vibrating type, to remove tramp oversize. The screen undersize is washed and dewatered generally in a spiral type classifier. Sometimes cone, centrifugal and rake type classifiers may also be used for this service. To clean the sand grains it may be necessary to thoroughly scrub the sand in a heavy-duty sand scrubber similar to the Heavy-duty Agitator used for foundry sand scrubbing. This unit is placed ahead of the washing and dewatering step when required. The overflow from the classifier containing the excess water and slimes is considered a waste product. Thickening of the wastes for water reclamation and tailings disposal in some areas may be necessary.
The washed and dewatered sand from the spiral-type classifier is conveyed to a storage bin ahead of the flotation section. It is very important to provide a steady feed to flotation as dilution, reagents and time control determines the efficiency of the process.
Feeding wet sand out of a storage bin at a uniform rate presents a materials handling problem. In some cases the sand can be uniformly fed by means of a belt or vibrating-type feeder. Vibrators on the storage bin may also be necessary to insure uniform movement of the sand to the feeder. In some cases the wet sand is removed from the bin by hydraulic means and pumped to a spiral-type classifier for further dewatering before being conveyed to the next step in the flowsheet.
Conditioning of the sand with reagents is the most critical step in the process. Generally, for greater efficiency, it is necessary to condition at maximum density. It is for this reason the sand must be delivered to the agitators or conditioners with a minimum amount of moisture. High density conditioning at 70 to 75% solids is usually necessary for efficient reagentizing of the impurity minerals so they will float readily when introduced into the flotation machine.
The Heavy-duty Duplex Open-type Conditioner previously developed for phosphate, feldspar, ilmenite, and other non-metallic mineral flotation is ideal for this application. A duplex unit is necessary to provide the proper contact time. Circular wood tanks are used to withstand the acid pulp conditions and the conditioner shafts and propellers are rubber covered for both the abrasive and corrosive action of the sand and reagents.
Reagents are added to the conditioners, part to the first and the balance to the second tank of the duplex unit, generally for flotation of impurities from silica sand. These reagents are fuel oil, sulphuric acid, pine oil, and a petroleum sulfonate. This is on the basis that the impurities are primarily oxides. If iron is present in sulphide form, then a xanthate reagent is necessary to properly activate and float it. The pulp is usually regulated with sulfuric acid to give a pH of 2.5-3.0 for best results through flotation.
A low reagent cost is necessary because of the low value of the clean sand product. It is also necessary to select a combination of reagents which will float a minimum amount of sand in the impurity product. It is desirable to keep the weight recovery in the clean sand product over 95%. Fatty acid reagents and some of the amines have a tendency to float too much of the sand along with the impurities and are therefore usually avoided.
After proper reagentizing at 70 to 75% solids the pulp is diluted to 25 to 30% solids and introduced into the flotation machine for removal of impurities in the froth product. Thepulp is acid, pH 2 .5 to 3.0 and the sand, being granular and slime free, is rapid settling so a definite handling problem is encountered through flotation.
The Sub-A Flotation Machine has been very successful for silica sand flotation because it will efficiently handle the fast settling sand and move it along from cell to cell positively. Aeration, agitation and selectivity due to the quiet upper zone can be carefully regulated to produce the desired separation. The machine is constructed with a wood tank and molded rubber wearing parts to withstand the corrosive action of the acid pulp. Molded rubber conical-type impellers are preferred for this service when handling a coarse, granular, abrasive sand.
Flotation contact time for removal of impurities is usually short. A 4, and preferably a 6 cell, machine is advisable. Cell to cell pulp level control is also desirable. A 6 cell No. 24 (43 x 43) Sub-A Flotation Machine in most cases is adequate for handling 25 to 30 tons of sand per hour. If the impurities are in sulphide form a standard machine with steel tank and molded rubber parts is adequate provided the pulp is not acid. Otherwise acid proof construction is essential.
The flotation tailing product is the clean sand discharging from the end of the flotation machine at 25 to 30% solids and must be dewatered before further processing. Dewatering can be accomplished in a dewatering classifier and then sent to storage or drying. Top feed or horizontal vacuum filters are often used to remove moisture ahead of the dryer. Dry grinding of the sand to meet market requirements for ceramic and pottery use is also a part of the flowsheet in certain cases.
This particular sand was all minus 20 mesh with only a trace minus 200 mesh and 70% plus 65 mesh. Iron impurity was present as oxide and stained silica grains. The plant which was installed as a result of this test work is consistently making over a 95% weight recovery and a product with not over 0.02% Fe2O3 which at times goes as low as 0.01% Fe2O3.
Si02, minimum..99.8 per cent Al2O3, maximum..0.1 percent Fe2O3, maximum..0.02 per cent CaO + MgO, maximum.0.1 percent For certain markets, a maximum of 0.030 per cent Fe2O3 is acceptable.
Natural silica-sand deposits generally contain impurityminerals such as clay, mica, and iron oxide and heavy iron minerals which are not sufficiently removed by washing and gravity concentration. Flotation is often used to remove these impurity minerals to meet market specifications.
Anionic-type reagents, such as fatty acids, are used to float some impurities in alkaline pulp. Cationic-type reagents such as amines or amine acetates are also used with inhibitors such as sulphuric or hydrofluoric acids to float certain impurity minerals and depress the silica.
This article was co-authored by Ashley Matuska. Ashley Matuska is the owner and founder of Dashing Maids, a sustainably focused cleaning agency in Denver, Colorado. She has worked in the cleaning industry for over 5 years. wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. This article received 13 testimonials and 96% of readers who voted found it helpful, earning it our reader-approved status. This article has been viewed 276,473 times.
Even though you constantly run soap through your washing machine, that doesnt mean it cleans itself. If you wash your clothes in a machine that smells, its possible for the odor to transfer to the fabrics. While chemical cleaning solutions could damage your machine, you can easily make your own cleaning solution with natural ingredients like white vinegar and baking soda. This natural cleaning solution can help get rid of mildew, grime, and built up soap scum. Whether you have a top-load or front-loading machine, you can keep your machine clean and smelling great!
How often you clean your washing machine depends on how often you use it. Ashley Matuska of Dashing Maids says: "I personally do about 10 or so loads of laundry a week, so I clean my washing machine about once a month. If you use your machine less often, you can clean it every other month. To clean it, run a load on the sanitize setting, or for an older model, set it for a larger load or longer setting with hot water."
To clean your top or front-load washing machine naturally, start by pouring 2 cups of white vinegar into the drum. Then, mix cup each of water and baking soda and pour the solution into the detergent well where you usually put detergent and fabric softener. Once youve poured in the vinegar and baking soda solution, run your washing machine on its hottest setting to clean the drum. If your machine has a drum clean cycle, use this instead. When the cycle has finished, use a damp washcloth to wipe any leftover dirt from the drum and seal. For more tips from our Cleaning co-author, including how to clean the detergent well of your washing machine, read on! Did this summary help you?YesNo
Capacity 1-200 TPH TypesWheel type and spiral type sand washing machine Procesible Material ore, natural sand and gravel, manufactured sand, etc. Application Metallurgy, ore washing plant, quarry, stone crusher plant, building materials, road construction, concrete washing and other sand and gravel wash plant. Service design and build sand washing plant, working site visiting.
Sand washing machineJXSC supply two types of sand washing machine (wheel type and spiral type), popularly used in mining, quarrying sites. It usually works with sand making machine, vibrating screen, dewatering screen, to prepare clean ore or gravel for further processing. FunctionWashing, classifying, remove impurity, draining, with good effect on aggregate, sand & gravel, ore. How to select a right sand washing machineThe sand washer type names may vary by application and structure. Contact our engineer for quick selection help, if you are confusing about what is XS type, XL type, fine sand washer, coarse sand washer, sand screw washer, spiral sand washer, bucket sand washing plant, and which one suit for washing silica sand, river sand, beach sand, aggregate, granite, etc. Sand Making & WashingJXSC VSI sand making machine and sand washing machine have a good effect on gravel, cement, pebble, quartz, aggregate processing plant. Customizable fixed, semi-portable and portable sand washing systems, replace the natural sand by artificial making sand. Sand washing machine priceFactory price! The sand washing machine price is an efficient and economical machine, relatively low price. Factory direct sale, perfect after-sales service, on-site installation.
Rotary sand washer structuremain part includes feeding, bucket wheel, reducer, motor, washing tank, screen, discharging. Sand washing machine working principleThe motor drives the impeller to rotate slowly, and the sand and stones roll under the motion of the impeller and grind to each other to remove the impurities covering the surface of the sand. The flush water carries away the impurities, and the washed sand and stones are discharged continuously. Sand washing machine manufacturer JXSC provides different sand screening and washing machines according to different sand washing process practical conditions, including industrial washing plant, small sand washing machine, mobile sand washing plant, support sand washing machine design, washing efficiency test. Sand washing method1. sand making machine, rod mill to reduce natural material size 2. primary classification by screw screen 3. attrition scrubber 4. secondary classification by spiral washing equipment or wheel bucket washer.
Why we need sand washing machineSpiral washer is large equipment for black and non-ferrous metallurgy mines, iron and steel, metallurgy, chemical industry and building materials to wash ores and stones. The washing machine has great processing capacity, which is ideal equipment to meet the requirements of large productivity for the cleanliness of ores and stones. Washing first can avoid the crusher and screen machine blocking, In the raw materials, such as soluble or harmful ingredients, should also be washed. The washing machine is widely used in mines, coal, smelting, and other industries. Sand Washing PlantsJXSC Sand Washing Plants process the crushed stone & sand from the raw state to product by a series of processes, typically includes feed preparation, attrition, scrub, screening, deslime, washing, classifying, dewatering, etc. The washed sand specifications vary depending on the application, and the output requirements. Sand washing process combines a variety of equipment include attrition cell, ball mill, rotary scrubber, vibrating screens, centrifugal slurry pumps, cyclones, separator, deslimer, dewatering screen, etc. Spiral sand washeralso name as screw sand washer, can wash and separate the soil and other impurities in sand and gravel aggregate, commonly used in open-pit mining wash plant, artificial stone production line. Single screw, double screws; small sand washing machine, mobile wash plant (portable wash plant), large scale screw wash plant; coarse sand, fine sand. Advantages of sand washerThe sand washing machine structure is reasonable, convenient maintenance, processing capacity, small power consumption, good cleaning effect. JXSC sand washing machine manufacturer has been always providing sand washing equipment for mine, quarry, concrete batching plants. Contact us to discuss customizable sand washing plant design and sand plant costs. Related products: sand making machine, bucket wheel sand washer, log washer, sand screw washer.
The average American family does around 300 loads of laundry every year, and the cost of laundry products can really add up. By making some laundry products yourselfincluding detergent pods, fabric softener, and moreyou'll save money and avoid last-minute trips to the store when yourun out of detergent. Plus, you'll have the satisfaction of knowing exactly which ingredients are being used to wash your laundry.
Making powdered laundry detergent is very simple and will cost you around 30 cents per load. Plus, homemade laundry detergent is safe to use in both standard and high-efficiency washers because the formula is low-sudsing.
In a large, resealable container, combine the soap flakes, baking soda, washing soda, and borax. Mix the ingredients well. Washing soda (sodium hydroxide) is caustic to the skin, so wear rubber gloves.
If you have extremely cold water, liquid laundry detergent is a better choice because powders can sometimes be difficult to dissolve. This formula is particularly good for anyone with sensitive skin because it contains no irritating dyes or fragrances.
The single-dose laundry detergent formatwhether a tablet, pod, or packis a simple and efficient way to prevent overuse of detergent. This saves money, protects clothes from excessive wear, and can even keep high-efficiency washers from breaking down due to excess suds. One of the downsides of single-dose pods from big-name manufacturers is the high cost, but you can make your own for less.
Use a measuring spoon to shape the mixture into individual pods. Each pod should be 1 heaping tablespoon. Pack the measuring spoon well, and then place the pod on a waxed paper- or parchment paper-lined cookie sheet. Spritz the pods with a bit of plain water to set the shape, and allow them to dry overnight. This recipe will make around 24 single-dose pods.
For wool to look its best, it should not be treated with high heat or harsh detergents. Mistreatment can cause wool to lose its natural oils and luster, change shape, or develop wear and tear prematurely. There are commercial detergents formulated for delicate garments, such as wool sweaters, but you can also make your own.
Chlorine bleach is not the best choice for removing stains on colored clothes, though it does work well on white cotton. But what if you have a striped shirt? How do you keep the bleach on just the white area? You can purchase a commercially made bleach pen or make your own.
Advertisers have convinced most of us that unless our laundry smells "clean," then it isn't. But what is the smell of clean? Meadow fresh, spring rain, or aloha ocean? If you want to control the fragrance of your laundry but don't like the expense or the added chemicals of commercial brands, you can make your own laundry fragrance enhancer.
Homemade fabric softener is easy to make, inexpensive, and the perfect complement to homemade laundry detergent. It's also a great choice for those with chemical sensitivity to perfumes and dyes, and it's safe to use on all fabrics.
A freshly ironed shirt presents a crisp, polished look, and using starch or sizing will help accomplish that look. Starch gives fabric extra body and leaves a smooth finish. Laundry sizing is simply a lighter version of starch that aids in making ironing easier. It is quite simple to make it yourself in just minutes.
Dryer balls are added to wet laundry as it's loaded into the dryer to fluff clothes and speed drying time. They also help to keep clothes free of static. You can buy commercially made wool or PVC dryer balls. Or you can make them yourself.
Add the sock or pantyhose to a pan of water, and bring it to a boil. Then, remove the pan from the heat source, but allow the balls to soak until the water is cool. The hot water will cause the wool to shrink and mat together. You might see some dye transfer if you're not using uncolored wool. But this won't be a problem when the balls are finished for use in the dryer.
Squeeze excess water from the balls, and put the sock or pantyhose in the dryer on high heat. Once everything is dry, cut the strings between the balls and remove them from the sock or pantyhose. The balls will be smaller and should look fuzzy. You shouldn't be able to unwind them. They are now the core of your final dryer balls.
Using the ball cores you created, begin the wrapping process again with the wool yarn or fabric strips. Keep wrapping until each ball is around 3 1/2 inches in diameter. Then, repeat the hot water soak and drying process to get the finished product.
Have you ever thought about why your washing machine smells terrible? It might have something to do with the design of the device, or it may just be because your front loading or top loading washing machine is practically a breeding ground for mold and mildew.
Either way, youll want to learn the best cleaning tips to protect your washing machine and everything that goes in it from those unwanted and unpleasant smells. Have you considered making a homemade washing machine cleaner to use in your home?
To get started, youll want to gather ingredients like baking soda, laundry soap, and white vinegar to remove mold, mildew, unpleasant smells, and soap scum build up. You dont have to clean your washing machine every wash cycle, but its a good idea to clean it every couple of weeks.
The best top loading washer recipes require common household ingredients to get the job done. For this top-loading washing machine tip, youll need white vinegar and baking soda. The white vinegar will disinfect the machines, while the baking soda will clean soap scum off the machines and promote a fresh smell.
Let your top load washer run on its hottest setting with nothing inside. Make sure the largest load setting is selected. Then, add three to four cups of white vinegar to the water and allow it to mix into the water for about one minute with the lid open.
While the water is sitting, wipe down the inside of the washer with a cleaning rag, paying particular attention to the fabric softener dispenser. Once youve wiped it down, let the cleaning cycle continue until all the water drains, and you should be good to go!
Before starting on the inside of your front load washer, begin by cleaning the rubber seal of the machine, as this area will have a buildup of hair and other unwanted particles. Then, clean the front load washing machine gaskets by spraying vinegar into the folds.
Run a rinse cycle and sprinkle baking soda into the drum of the front loading washing machine as this will help reduce unpleasant odors. Pour a cup of vinegar into the detergent dispenser and run a cleaning cycle for approximately one hour. This DIY front loader washing machine cleaner will keep your machine clean for weeks.
Put the temperature on your washing machine to the hottest setting, most extended cycle, and largest load size. Add four cups of vinegar to the hot water, close the lid, and let the water run for a few minutes.
Almost everyone has a laundry room, nearly every laundry room has a washing machine, and nearly every washing machine is used every day with either commercial laundry detergent or DIY natural laundry detergent. Instead of regularly using a homemade washing machine cleaner recipe, try limiting your recipe usage by using this tip: Wipe your machine out regularly.
To save extra time, money, and effort, wipe down your machine at the end of every day. Use a dry paper towel or a dry, clean rag to wipe off any extra laundry detergent or particles sticking to the sides of your washing machine.
This nifty homemade washer cleaner trick can be used for other household items, too. It is useful when cleaning your coffee maker, especially if you dont want the brown liquid to stain the glass interior. If you wonderhow to clean a dishwasher, you can start with this tip before using a homemade recipe, too.
Dont let your clothes sit in the washing machine, as this can quickly cause mold and mildew accumulation. Not only will the machine suffer, but the clothes will, too. If youre trying to avoid smelly clothes, trust us on this one and get the clothes to the dryer as soon as possible.
You dont have to wash out your washing machine all the time with a homemade washing machine cleaner, but you should make sure that mold and mildew arent growing inside the machine. If you dont want to use a detailed recipe all the time, try using this once-a-week trick.
Combine all ingredients and pour the solution into a spray bottle. Shake the bottle well before each use and spray the seal, drum, and door of the washing machine. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then wipe all areas down with a clean cloth.
The essential oil will give your washer machine a fresh scent, and the vinegar will disinfect all areas. Be sure to let the machine air dry with the door open before washing a baseball cap, bed sheets, another batch of laundry, etc.
Phase 1: Remove the tray dispenser inside the washing machine and soak it in hot water and dish soap. Scrub away all build up with an old toothbrush and put it back inside the machine. Pour washing soda in the drum of the machine and run your machine on its hottest setting.
Phase 2: Once the cycle is complete, pour vinegar and essential oils into the liquid dispenser. Run the washer on its hottest setting again and wipe out all areas after the cycle is complete. Allow to air dry before washing another load of laundry.
It seems silly to clean your dishwasher when it cleans your pots, dishes, and silverware several times a week but food deposits and grease can lead to a stinky appliance. How to clean a smelly dishwasher involves many of the same recipes that you use to clean the washing machine. Sometimes, lemon juice is a welcome addition to the mix that leaves your dishwasher smelling fresh.
Keeping your washing machine clean is essential, whether you have a front loader or a top loader. When cleaning either of these machines, youll want to double check that you have the washer on the correct water setting, with the right water temperature (hot water, cold water, etc.).
We hope you liked our DIY front loader and top loader washing machine cleaner recipes. If you enjoyed reading our washer tricks, please share these cleaning tips on Facebook with your family and friends.
A sandblaster can be a useful tool in many types of projects. It can be used to remove rust or paint from metal, or to create custom etchings on glass and other materials. A sandblasting cabinet is essentially a box that is used to contain and collect the blasting medium (which can be anything from fine sand to glass beads and even walnut shells). A cabinet is not essential to the sandblasting process, but it is very useful for reducing clean up and making it possible to reuse the blast medium. I use sandblasting mostly for etching glass and stainless steel, and my setup is very simple. It consists of a small air compressor and a simple, inexpensive kit to adapt the compressor for sand blasting. The kit is nothing more than a nozzle attachment with a trigger and a rubber hose used to siphon the medium (multipurpose sand that I sifted through a metal screen) from a bucket. That set up worked just fine for my needs, but I wanted a way to recycle the sand so I did not have to make so many trips to the hardware store to get more. Also, finding sand in my hair and pockets was getting a little annoying as well. I decided I wanted a cabinet to add to my setup, but I wanted to make it my self, partially to save money and partially to keep up the diy/make-shift theme I had going while also practicing my newly acquired welding skills. In this instructable I will show you how I made my sandblast cabinet from conception/design to use of the final product.
These are the tools and materials that I used in making my cabinet. There are certainly better ways to do some of the things I have done (some of which I will mention along the way), but this is how I did it with the resources available to me. Materials: - 4' x 4.5' sheet of 16 gauge steel (0.0598" thick) - 2' of 1/8" angle iron - 2 steel door hinges (plus fasteners) - handle (plus fasteners) Tools: - MIG welder - Oxy acetylene torch - Circular saw - Press brake - Slip roll Note: Some of the tools above are not pictures of the actual tools I used, but I tried to find pictures that look as close to the ones I used as possible (and sources are cited).
Before anything can get made, it must get designed. I am lucky enough to have access to CAD software at my university, so I was able to model my design on campus using CATIA. Pencil and paper works just fine though, especially for a relatively simple design like this one. My original design had handles on the top to make it easier to carry, and doors on both sides. I made a full size cardboard mock up of this design to get a better feel of the size of the final cabinet and make sure the dimensions I used were reasonable. This turned out to be a good thing to do, because it made me realize that I probably did not need it to be as big as my original design, and allowed me to improve functional features such as the angle and size of the viewing window, as well as the distance between the glove holes. With this new information, I refined my design. In addition to the modifications mentioned above, I also decided that the extra door and the handles on top were not necessary. With the finalized design, it was time to start thinking about materials and manufacturing methods. I wanted to reduce the total amount of welding that I would have to do, so I decided to make it out of one large piece (plus the door piece) and make it so it can be folded into the box shape and then welded at the seams when necessary. I made a new model of the unfolded box to determine how much material I would need and what shape to cut out. I knew the folded edges would need to be bent using a press brake and that 16 gauge steel was about the thickest material that could be bend with the press brake that I would be using. I also checked the thickness of another sandblast cabinet to compare and it ended up being only a gauge or two thicker than 16 (which could have been due to the layers of paint on it) so I felt ok with making mine out of 16 gauge.
I used the circular saw to cut out the shape of the main piece, the door, and two 2" x 20" strips to be made into the glove rings. The holes (for the gloves and the viewing window) were cut out using an oxy acetylene torch with a cutting attachment. Ideally I would have preferred to do all of this cutting with a waterjet or CNC plasma cutter, as either of these would have been much faster and given much cleaner and more accurate results. With all the shapes cut out I drilled the holes (using a drill press) for the fasteners that will hold on the hinges, the door handle and the viewing window.
In order to turn the flat sheet of steel into a box shape, a bit of bending is necessary. In the image below, you can see the all the places that I folded the sheet (dotted lines). The tabs on the right were bent first, and are there to create some overlap to aid in welding later. All the folds were made on a press brake. Because of the box shape of the design, the last couple folds get tricky due to the rest of the box getting in the way of the press brake. However, with a bit of improvisation and persuasion (aka several clamps, a hammer and a sturdy table) I was able to finish the last fold. The glove rings were rolled into 6" diameter hoops with a manual slip roll (excess length was removed with a foot shear)
All the welding that I did was using a portable MIG welder. My experience with welding is somewhat limited so, as I mentioned before, I tried to reduce the total amount of welding required for this project. The welding that I did do was to seal up the places where edges of the folded box came together. The tabs I created during the cutting and folding steps made this part much easier, as they made it possible to clamp the sides together and the extra overlap made the welding easier and the welds stronger. I welded on the inside and the outside of each edge. Next I had to weld the glove rings to the inside of the box, around the glove holes. To do this I tacked one end of the ring/hoop to the edge of the hole, and then worked my way around the hole, tacking the ring every two inches or so, and then finishing it off with a continuous bead all the way around. After the welding was done, it became clear to me that with the box missing the entire left side (for the door) it was pretty flimsy in that area and didnt have much to help it keep its shape. So, I cut a length of 1/8" angle iron and welded it to the bottom of that side. This fix ended up working quite well. Then, using a pneumatic grinder, I cleaned up all the welds on the outside to make it look good.
With everything cut and welded all that's left is assembly. The hinges, handle and viewing window are all held in place with fasteners purchased at a hardware store. The gloves I have are sandblasting gloves purchased online, and they are attached to the glove rings with hose clamps tightened well to hold them on. To use it I put the cabinet on top of a table, place the sandblast gun inside (with the hose coming out of one corner), open the door, place the work piece inside, close the door, put my hands into the gloves and grab the gun and start spraying! When Im done I can sweep the sand off the table and back into the bucket (and I dont have to worry about it in my hair, clothes and shoes). The cabinet works well as-is, but there are a few additions/modifications that I have been planing on making. First, I have not added a latch to hold the door shut while in use. It works fine just placing a block next to the door to keep it shut, but a latch (and maybe a strip of rubber) would help provide a better seal and keep in even more sand. I would also like to add a stand or some legs for it to sit on (instead of a table) to make it easier to collect the sand after use. Also, as you can see in the last few images, I never got around to painting the thing, so its a bit rusty. I may some day clean it up, sand all the rust off (or maybe SANDBLAST it off!) and give it a few coats of pain to give it some protection.
Hey drumbum, Good instructable. Just wondering, for those of us without welding experience / equipment, could this be done using wood instead? Might help with cost as well :-b I've dabbled with sandblasting previously, do not like the clean up afterwards. Is this doable do you think? Cheers, R
I was thinking the same thing Raigmoul. I was worried about cost and ease of assembly. My idea was to cover the the interior sections with flashing material prior to final assembly. I even thought of brazing the joints after assembly to make it more airtight. I also thought I would make an angled bottom or "funnel" bottom that led to a vacuum port for the shop vac. Then placing some steel grating inside as a "floor" which gives a solid surface to work on but allows blasting material through to the vac. But great Instructable. This has been one that I have considering myself for a few months now but never able to get around to.
Thanks, and yes that sounds doable to me. The only thing that I would be worried about though is how well the wood would stand up to being blasted with sand. It might require something on the inside to protect the wood, but other than that im sure it would work fine.
The link following this is to a catalog page. TP Tools sells sandblasting equipment and other stuff and this is the page for the build it yourself sandblast cabinet plans and kits made of two sheets of plywood. very good stuff. http://www.tptools.com/SearchResult.aspx?keyword=cabinet+kit&SDeptId=&tier_level=&SearchTitleDescr=
Making a long-lasting sand filter for your above-ground pool is a simple task that requires only a few materials. It can supplement or replace the cartridge filter you are currently using, and it needs cleaning, on average, only once a year. Follow the steps below and try out this solution to a clean pool.
Purchase a 10-gallon, tall, rectangular, clear plastic storage container with a tight-fitting lid. Scooping up any old sand for your filter won't work, so head to any pool supply store to buy filter sand specifically; it has specially shaped small grains that trap pool debris effectively. You can recycle old nylon stockings for this project as well, but use a high denier (woven thread count) type so they will filter the water thoroughly. Super-sheer nylons will not stand up to the abrasion of the sand grains or the water pressure through the pool pump.
Using a drill, punch two round holes in the container, one in the middle of the lid and the second on one of the narrow container ends, half an inch above the bottom. Make the holes the same diameter as your pool pump filter tubing. Then, run a length of tubing from the top of the pool down to the sand filter container. Put your sand filter close to the cartridge filter and pump for convenience. Insert a second tube into the bottom of the sand filter container that will take filtered water back to the pool pump. Seal both of the openings around the tubes with 100 percent silicone caulking to ensure it is waterproof. Place a section of one leg of the nylon stockings over the opening of the bottom tube, fasten it firmly with black waterproof plumbing tape, and caulk it with the silicone sealant to hold it firmly.
Remove the filter lid and pour the 10-pound bags of pool sand into the container. Spread it out so it is level and fills up to 3/4 of the container's depth. When the water enters it should spread out evenly across the top of the sand filter medium. Place the lid snugly on the container once it is full, and tie down the lid with strap clamps so you can release the lid again when the sand needs cleaning. When the sand darkens to a greenish-black color, it must be cleaned.
If your filter is leaking at either its entry or exit port, repair it with more caulking or make and attach a new tube. Check your sand filter's operation weekly. As a result of adding the sand filter, your cartridge filter should require cleaning far less often. If your sand filter is doing the job by itself, you can remove the cartridge filter from the system altogether.