dust collection systems: 10 common questions

dust collection systems: 10 common questions

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The performance of a dust collection system is dependent upon numerous factors that vary from one system to the next. Dust particle size, duct diameter, the number and location of collection points are a few of these components, but there is so much more to consider when designing a system. Slight miscalculations in the initial design phase can cause costly performance issues after the system has been installed and commissioned for operation.With larger systems typically requiring large capital investments, ensuring that a system that fits the collection needs of a facility before installation is critical because the cost of corrections after the fact will likely be driven by the size of the system. Regardless of the size of the system, it is important to know that it will perform as required due to the potential safety and environmental issues that can arise with poor system design or failure to understand the factors that can affect the systems ability to capture and collect dust.

Whether designing a new system or evaluating your current system, being equipped with some basic knowledge about the key factors that affect performance is imperative. Lets take a look at 10 questions that should be considered when evaluating the performance of your dust collection system.

1.) What is loading and how is it calculated? Dust collectors such as baghouses and cartridge collectors use bags or filters to separate dust from air. Since both of these collectors use fabric filters, excessive dust loading over a short period of time can negatively impact performance. Dust concentrations in baghouses that are greater than 5-7 grains/cu ft will likely cause operational and maintenance issues. For cartridge collectors, dust loadings should be kept below 2 grains/cu ft.

To calculate loading, take the dust being sent into the collector (lb/hr) and multiply it by 7000 grains/lb. You then calculate the total system air volume per hour. Finally, divide the grains per hour by the total airflow in an hour to get grains/cu ft.

Overloading filters decreases system efficiency due to reduced airflow through the collector. This reduction in flow means that dust will not be collected at collection points as intended. This can be costly in many respects, beyond the fact that the system is not collecting dust as designed. Filters will have to be replaced more often, which may mean that the entire system has to be taken offline. Additionally, safety and environmental concerns must be considered, with the potential for dust to enter the atmosphere, both within the facility or into the outside air.

2.) Why does particle size distribution matter? Dust particles come in many different shapes and sizes, depending on the composition of the parent material and where applicable, the nature of the processing operation that creates the dust. For instance, wood dust created by a sander will have a much different particle size than ground limestone. Within each of these types of dust, there is a variance in the particle size. This is known as the particle size distribution. This is an important value to know for a few different reasons.

First and foremost, there are potential safety and environmental concerns. Dusts can be inhalable or respirable at smaller sizes and may be regulated by OSHA or industrial hygiene standards to maintain worker safety. Of further concern is the combustibility of a dust and its ability to be dispersed in an explosion, which is also subject to regulatory oversight.

From an operational standpoint, dust collector filters are designed to be permeable to air. This is why filter selection is critical. While most collectors can be fitted with filters that have very high removal efficiencies down to 1-2 micron dust sizes, it is not prudent to use filters designed for smaller particles when the dust being collected has a larger particle size. This will lead to decreased air flow through the collector and reduced efficiency.

Dust collector designers and manufacturers have removal efficiency curves that provide the expected removal of dust at a certain particle size. To accurately predict the removal efficiency of the dust collector, the particle size distribution must be compared to the removal efficiency curve and calculated. Most baghouses and filters are highly efficient down to very small particle size. Cyclones on the other hand, are less efficient and may require a more in-depth investigation of particle size distribution on most applications

3.) Could the system benefit from a pre-filter cyclone? Using a cyclone as a pre-filter before the collector is an effective method of reducing the load on the collector. The cyclone is designed to remove larger, heavier dust, while allowing smaller particles to pass through it and into the collector filters. In many applications, 80-90% of the particulate matter entering the cyclone is removed, which is a significant reduction in overall system loading. With this decreased volume of dust reaching the filters, filter life is extended, with cleaning and replacement needed less frequently. This means reduced maintenance cost while sustaining optimal operating efficiency.

If the material being collected by the system is a high value material or product, the cyclone allows collection of this material without it being contaminated with other dusts that may be presents in the baghouse or cartridge collector.

An additional benefit of using a cyclone is its ability to act as a spark arrestor and lower the temperature of the air going into the collector. Hot air temperatures exhausted from foundries, glass making plants, and power plants can burn the filter media used by most baghouses, and it is not uncommon for sparks to enter dust collection systems that are used for sanding, sawing, or grinding operations. Cyclones are highly effective at mitigating both of these risks.

4.) How does the fan wheel-style affect performance? The exhaust fan could be the most important component in the dust collection system because it provides the motive force for the whole system. If it isnt performing as required, the system will fail. Its all about pressure and volume and being able to generate and maintain enough of both to get the dust to the collector. Thats why choosing the proper type of fan impeller (wheel) is crucial.

Radial wheel: These wheels should be used when the fan is on the dirty side of a dust collector or after a dust collector where a large amount of dust remains in the airstream. Material handling applications typically use radial wheel-type fans, as their wheels are designed to handle dust in the air in which they operate. The open-type wheel is used when there is a high dust loading, and/or the dust is fibrous. Its design helps prevent the dust from wrapping around the wheel.

Air handling wheel: The air handling wheel is designed for clean airstreams or extremely light dust loading. These wheels should always be used on the clean side of and dust collector and never on the dirty side. They are usually more efficient in air movement than the radial wheels.

Axial wheel: These wheels are usually never used on dust collection systems. They will move a lot of air, but without much force behind them. If possible, stay away from axial fans on your dust collector system. Consideration should also be given to the material that is used for the fan blades and housing. For example, abrasive dusts will quickly erode fan components that are made of soft metal. Incompatibilities that could lead to corrosion should also be considered.

5.) Why are differential pressure gauges used in dust collection systems? Using a differential pressure gauge to measure pressure drop through a collector is an effective method of monitoring the health of a dust collection system. Air that flows through a newly installed system with minimal leakage, a properly functioning fan, and filters that are clean will experience a pressure drop as it travels through the collection unit. This drop is normal. System manufacturers typically provide normal pressure drop figures for their units.

Regular collection of pressure drop data is recommended to track gradual or sudden changes. Gradual changes are likely caused by filters or ductwork becoming clogged, whereas more sudden changes could be the result of system or fan damage, torn or missing filters, or leakage that is allowing water or air into the system. In either case, pressure drop data can be used to see trends and prevent full blown problems before they result in the system having to be shut down.

6.) What is a DHA? DHA is an abbreviation for Dust Hazard Analysis. Any industrial facility that creates dusts or uses powders is mandated by NFPA 652 to complete a DHA to identify the presence of combustible dusts and establish a plan for eliminating or mitigating potential risks associated with these dusts in their facilities. The deadline for completion of the DHA is September 2020.OSHA has begun issuing citations and fines using the NFPA under the general duty clause.

The DHA should be as simple or as complex as the process and needs to be formally documented and needs to be updated as collection points are added, or new raw materials are brought into the facility. The main purpose of the DHA is to educate the owner and operators on the true hazards and dangers they are facing with their dust, and to make sure they take the proper precautions with it. The DHA is a tool to prevent loss of life, equipment, production time, and capital.

7.) What are dampers? Dampers are used in dust collection systems to control the airflow to specific branches of the ductwork. This is done by opening or closing the damper because air, like water, travels the path of least resistance. By using a damper, you are changing the path of least resistance for the air travelling in the system. Every dust collection system should have a manual damper near each hood or pickup point to allow the system to be balanced. This flexibility allows airflows to be varied between collection points, depending on the changing operational needs of the entire system.

Without this type of control, an unbalanced system could cause too much air to be pulled from one area causing loss of viable product while in another area not enough airflow is available to capture dust. Soft connects, or spaces between flanges, are occasionally used to control airflow at a pickup point. However, this isnt very efficient as it keeps the airflow in that area constant, even at times when it is not required. Dampers are a much better solution, as they allow the ability to close off branches that are not being used.

8) How does ductwork design affect a system? Ductwork is usually the largest component of a dust collection system and often the most overlooked. Depending on the size of your system, the ductwork can span hundreds of feet and have dozens of side streams. The ductwork is essentially a transportation network that is used to move dusty air from one place to another.

As with transportation system design, a good ductwork layout will utilize straight lines when possible and attempt to limit the overall size of the system. Larger systems requiring many elbows and transitions will experience inefficiencies due to flow and velocity losses caused by friction.

Ductwork diameter is dependent upon the material being conveyed and the distance between the collector and pickup points. The correct diameter helps ensure that the required balance between velocity and flow to move the dust is maintained.

Care should be taken whenever adding or removing drops to a system after its installation, as any modification has the potential to negatively affect the flow and velocity in the system. It is possible to retrofit a system by adding dampers or changing fan speed to restore system balance after it has been modified, but it is always prudent to evaluate the potential impact to the system prior to making any changes.

9) What is the right type of hood? A good dust collection system is reliant upon properly designed hoods to capture dust. The key word here is capture, as the hoods purpose is to maintain a capture velocity that will allow dust to be drawn into the system. Capture velocity is the required air speed that is necessary to overcome any surrounding air currents that would otherwise prevent the flow of dust into the hood or enclosure. An improperly designed hood will fail to effectively collect dust or require more airflow than should be needed.

Hoods usually should be placed as close to the source as possible for the best results. The best size and shape are dependent on many factors, but hoods usually incorporate tapered or conical designs improve capture velocity and reduce friction in the system.

A great resource for hood design is the ACGIH Industrial Ventilation Handbook. It provides recommended hood designs, airflow requirements, and sizes. Dust collection manufacturers and designers, HVAC consultants, and manufacturer representatives can also be consulted.

10) Can used dust collectors be used for certain applications? A sensible way to limit the capital expenditure required when installing a dust collection system is to use a used collection unit. Initial system design can proceed as it normally would, laying out collection points, calculating the required airflow, determining duct sizes, and calculating static pressure. From this initial design work, a shopping list of requirements can be generated.

If a used collector is available that can meet or exceed the requirements of the system, then it should be fully inspected and evaluated for any mechanical, electrical, or structural problems. It may be helpful to consult the manufacturer of the used unit to help assess its condition. The availability of and cost of replacement filters and other parts should also be considered.

A dust collector that is failing to collect dust can directly impact a companys bottom line, as well as the health and safety of its workers. That is why periodic system performance evaluations are vital. This list of 10 questions is certainly not an exhaustive list of questions that should be asked when evaluating your dust collection system. Each system will likely have requirements or characteristics that will necessitate specific design considerations that will differentiate it from other systems. But, having a basis of general knowledge about system design and operation will allow you make more informed judgments of system performance.

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open garage door dust collection venting - finewoodworking

open garage door dust collection venting - finewoodworking

Hello,I have a really large garage that I can keep open while working. In hearing about the costs associated with filtration and the benefits of outdoor venting, I was wondering if theres any disadvantage to this setup:

I would get a 1250 CFM DustRight. Instead of using the bag, Id send the dust into a long flex hose to be routed to a bush outside of my garage. When Im done working, Id bring the flex hose bag into my garage and Id close my garage door.

I know that the length of the flex hose connecting the appliances to the dust collector needs to be regulated in order not to lose CFM. However, does the length of the outbound flex hose which takes the dust out of the garage in my case affect the pressure of the system at all? Also, would this setup make the air quality noticeably poorer outside?

Thanks for your response. A lot of people seem to work with their garage door open, so I dont see how my proposed setup would be different from a noise standpoint. As far as the mess, my mom actually wants wood chippings so to mulch the garden so I thought Id kill two birds with one stone (Although, the fine dust might be more than what she bargained for). Out of the things you brought up, the loss in suction is what worries me the most.

Any length of run on the system will reduce flow. Flexhose is worse because of the ribs. Nobody talks about the effect of hose beyond the fan because it is never an issue. Without considering the neighbors, putting the collector right next to a window for a shorter run would make your plan work better. A blast gate through the garage wall would be a home run.

I use an inexpensive Wen 660CFM dust collector and due to the noise of this and my pancake compressor, I built a tall cabinet for them outside the back of my garage shop. I control them through a 15A remote control (Ground fault) I do have a cyclone adapted metal trash can outside as well, I simply vent the very fine dust through a standard dryer vent exhaust panel. I do live in a rural area with plenty of woods between it and the closest neighbor. I connect it to the inside through a wall through 4" adapter and use the Rockler quick connect adapter at each tool location, it works great!

You are trading the losses of the filter with the losses of a longer hose, you would have to try it to find out which is the lesser of the two. As the bag fills, fine dust increase the suction losses in your actual system, I often clean the bag before it fills to regain the lost cfms. You are definitely are going to create a mess outside, I know I would as I empty one 5 gallon bag per week on the average.

I don't use dustbag products for mulch, so i dont keep track. But some types of wood produce sawdust that is toxic to plants, and others that are toxic to certain animals. Find out which is which before you go spreading it about.

Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.

dust collection research - home

dust collection research - home

This site shares fine dust risks and how to effectively protect yourself and those close to you from airborne dust hazards. These pages provide far more detail than my Dust Collection Basics Blog which provides a quick overview. Most large woodworking facilities vent their dust collection systems outside, so fine dust exposure is limited to the dust that escapes capture. Still, woodworking generates so much unhealthy dust that gets missed that the insurance data for large facility woodworkers show fine dust causes one in seven to develop such bad allergic reactions they must stop woodworking, forces one in fourteen into an early medical retirement, poisons a few, a tiny number develop nasal cancers and all lose about 1% of their respiratory capacity per year of work which worsens age related health problems and shortens lifespans. The medical research shows the higher and longer the fine dust exposure the worse the damage. This should terrify small shop woodworkers, because OSHA testing shows most small shop workers who vent their dust collection systems inside get more fine dust exposure in a few hours woodworking than large facility workers get in months of full-time work. Venting inside lets the dust build to dangerously high levels greatly increasing our exposure. These pages share how to choose, upgrade, set up and maintain your dust collectors, cyclones, ducting, shop vacuums, air cleaners, tools, hoods, filters and downdraft tables for good fine dust collection. These pages share how to inexpensively test your air quality, airflow, and filtering. These pages also share my dust collection solutions that protect my family and me including plans for my very efficient air cleaner, blower and fine dust separating cyclone. All of my designs are marked for noncommercial use, meaning you are free to make these for yourself, but not for sale. Many find it less trouble and less cost to order my cyclone design from Clear Vue Cyclones.

Although woodworking inspired this site, many respiratory doctors recommend small shop owners and their family members, fiberglass workers, stone finishers, sand blasters, concrete cutters, coffee roasters, granary workers, and others with fine dust exposure follow the recommendations shared on these pages. Two major commercial dust collection firms and the Air Engineering Vendor Group recommend staff and customers read these pages.

Please do not get overwhelmed and forget your goal is to protect yourself and those close to you from fine dust. Although good fine dust collection takes lots of planning, work and expense it is not that difficult. I strongly recommend good fine dust collection and these pages share how, but until you can install good fine dust collection it is easy and affordable to get good fine dust protection. The best protection is to wear a good properly fit NIOSH approved respirator mask with dual HEPA quality cartridges and work outside or with our main doors open a bit and a strong fan blowing out a side door or window to create a good airflow through our shops to keep the fine dust from building. Our particle counters show for best protection we need to put on our respirator mask and start venting our shop before we start making fine dust and both the mask and fan need to stay on for about a half hour after we stop making fine dust. More protection detail can be found on the Doc's Orders page.

Thank You to the many who helped me with these web pages. You gave me the support and feedback to make and keep this information accurate and useful. Jim Halbert, Dr. Rod Cole (Ducting Static), and many others helped educate me. Jim Halbert shared his neutral vane upgrade, portable cyclone design, his automated blast gates (see blast gate video), his air measurement pages, his DC remote controller with circuit diagram, and his cyclone vacuum. Jim looks over my shoulder and shares feedback that keeps my efforts accurate and understandable. Don Beale is the air engineer who started the Wood Magazine Dust Collection/Air Filtration forum. Don spent countless hours helping me get the CFM requirement tables, resistance calculator, hood designs, duct designs, and many other portions accurate and complete. Also, Don put me through enough air engineering reading to earn another degree. Also, I give my thanks that so many other friends helped my cyclone, blower, motor, impeller, tool hoods, ducting, and web page efforts. I thank Bob Lemon, Dan Moening, Mike Worthan, Dale Critchlow, Glenn Paskaruk, Steve Knight, Steve Cater, Daryl Adams, Richard Winchester, Peter Hunt, Jack Diemer, Rodger Holland, and innumerable other local and Internet friends. Also I thank Larry Adcock who created WoodSucker, Chris O'Connor AAF sales manager, Paul Paton Sheldon's blower engineer, Allan Johanson who moderated the Wood Magazine Dust Collection/Air Filtration forum, Dick and Rick Wynn who run Wynn Environmental, Ed and Matt Morgano who did such a great job building up Clear Vue Cyclones, Bushey Enterprises who took over Clear Vue Cyclones and are building it into an even better firm, Lee Styron who runs Shark Guard, innumerable Cal-OSHA staff and contractors, plus many commercial dust collection firms. They help keep me stay focused and relevant, provide discounted components, plus show and share proper fine dust collection technique and components. Many others contributed time, expertise, and even a little money that assisted this effort. Terry Hatfield made me rewrite and add graphics. Linda Vanderwold, CSP shared the Vanwrite tools that make this site more understandable. I appreciate Steve Hall who gave his time and web designer expertise that redesigned this site so it loads faster, reads better, and navigates easier. I thank each who contributed. Although we get no gold, we created and maintain an accurate information and education source that makes a difference. Clearly many hear our efforts. Our educational efforts helped small shop owners make better choices. Since these pages started in 2000, they have helped lead the small shop vendor community to improve their filters, dust collectors, cyclones and advertising claims. Even with these improvements recent testing showed almost every small shop dust collector and cyclone remain dust pumps that leave our shops with dangerously high amounts of the unhealthiest invisible airborne dust so this work needs continued. Meanwhile, I appreciate the prior efforts and help. I think we all deserve a well-earned hand. Again, my thanks to all who helped and keep helping!

Helping the many who view these pages daily and knowing thousands world-wide use my cyclone design leaves a positive feeling, but positive feelings leave the bills unpaid. This research, tests and web page overhead costs me many tens of thousands of dollars. Vendor harassment and threatened legal suits added even more in attorney expenses. The ad revenue that used to help support these pages was cut ten-fold by the big vendors and two no longer even pay me for advertising. I continue this effort voluntarily, but my own health issues forced a medical retirement without the income to keep up this sharing level. So, if you find this information useful please help support these efforts by using the below vendor links and by making a small contribution each time you visit these pages:

Please use my links. For many vendors I get no credit unless you use the below links. You can also help by using this Amazon Search and eBay. Also, I have long been enjoying the cash back from Ebates on many major purchases and if you click on their link and join you can do the same and they make a small donation to my site.

clean and dust free charcoal powder crusher machine - best stone crusher plant solution from henan dewo

clean and dust free charcoal powder crusher machine - best stone crusher plant solution from henan dewo

Dewo machinery can provides complete set of crushing and screening line, including Hydraulic Cone Crusher, Jaw Crusher, Impact Crusher, Vertical Shaft Impact Crusher (Sand Making Machine), fixed and movable rock crushing line, but also provides turnkey project for cement production line, ore beneficiation production line and drying production line. Dewo Machinery can provide high quality products, as well as customized optimized technical proposal and one station after- sales service.

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How to Clean Furniture: Activated Charcoal. Activated charcoal is an even better adsorbent and odor-killer than baking soda, and can deal with a wider variety of particles. However, this highly purified charcoal dust isnt the best thing to put on your furniture, where it can stain.

with effective dust control methods, such as using water to keep dust from getting into the air or using a vacuum dust collection system to capture dust. In some operations, respirators may also be needed. Employers who follow Table 1 correctly are not required to measure workers exposure to silica from those tasks and are not subject to the ...

Air monitoring for silica dust. The mandatory limit for silica dust exposure in Australia is 0.05mg/m 3 averaged over an eight-hour day (except in Tasmania where it is 0.1mg/m 3), although the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) have recommended this be limited to 0.025 mg/m 3.

raw materials of gypsum board - shanghai sanme mining machinery corp., ltd

raw materials of gypsum board - shanghai sanme mining machinery corp., ltd

Gypsum powder is one of the five major gel materials and occupies an important position in the national economy. The gypsum powder production line is to calcinate natural dihydrate gypsum ore (raw gypsum) or industrial by-product gypsum (desulfurized gypsum, phosphogypsum, etc.) at a certain temperature. It is ground to make the dihydrate gypsum dehydrated and decomposed. The product with hemihydrate gypsum as the main component is the building gypsum (commonly known as plaster of gypsum).

In the past, desulfurized gypsum slag was often treated by landfill, which seriously polluted the environment and occupied cultivated land. Now, the desulfurized gypsum slag can be made into gypsum powder for construction after being processed by DSJ series drying hammer mills, turning waste into treasure. Moreover, the performance of gypsum powder made by DSJ series drying hammer mills is exceeding than natural gypsum, and it is a high-quality raw material for manufacturing gypsum board.

The gypsum ores are crushed into small granules of the size less than 30mm, conveyed to mills to complete selecting and separating, and then the qualified powder are delivered into fluidized bed boiler for calcinations while the rest return to the mill. The qualified gypsum powders are carried into the storage bin or workshop for further use.

The gypsum and FGD gypsum are fed from the inlet, effective contacting the surface of the heat exchange tube in the shell, and be burnt by the fume as a medium from the fluidized bed boiler and finally collected in the discharge outlet. Owing to the indirect heat exchange, the shell obtains higher regional vapor pressure which has positive effects on the quality of products. Moreover, there is no direct contact between the gypsum and heat carrier that keeps the maximum purity of the products. Indirect heat exchange model of rotating calcinations technique can effectively protect the gypsum against semi-hydrated gypsum by balancing the strength of the calcinations. This processing, adopting the advanced technology and taking the fluidized bed boiler as the heat source, which lowers the consumption of coal to its fullest extent and makes the full use of heat with output 100-1000t, is the ideal equipment for the calcinations of gypsum industry.

The gypsum ores are fed into crusher by the vibrating feeder, and crushed into small granules of the size less than 30mm for later use. Based on size of products and capacity requirements, the appropriate models can be adopted, like jaw crusher, hammer mills and impact crusher, etc. The dust collector is optional in order to keep the environment clean and satisfy the emission requirements.

The materials are fed evenly and continuously into the mill by the vibrating feeder for grinding, and then the ground gypsum are blowing out by the blower for the analyzer to classify. The qualified powders go with the wind to the collector and are discharged by the tube as the final products which fall on the auger conveyors for the next stages of calcinations. It is close-recycled that the whole wind system is and adopts the bag filter between the wind collector and blowers, which filter the dust in the air and release into the atmosphere so as to prevent environment from pollution. The material sizes through mill system are changed from 0-30mm to 80-120 mesh and satisfy the gypsum requirements.

The mill system includes a lifter, storage bin, vibrating feeder, mills, auger conveyor and bag-type collector. The mill is adopting our latest patented Euro-typed miller (patented number is ZL 2009 2 0088889.8ZL 2009 2 0092361.8ZL 2009 2 0089947.9). There is an inside classifier, no necessity of outside one, which simplify the process.

It includes the lifter, fluidized bed boiler, electro-static dust remover, roots blower, etc. The fluidized bed boiler is the most widely-used calcinations equipments in our country at present, which features smart shape, great capacity and simple structure, low failure rate and compact shape, low consumption, easy operation and self-control materialization, good quality of gypsum with ideal composure and stable physical performance, low operation cost, etc. It is widely used in the calcinations process of natural gypsum and chemical gypsum.

4. SANME can provide technological process plans and technical support according to the actual requirements of customers, and can also design non-standard supporting components according to the actual installation conditions of customers.

oneida air systems - the industry leader in dust collection | oneida air systems

oneida air systems - the industry leader in dust collection | oneida air systems

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mobile air cleaner cart | jays custom creations

mobile air cleaner cart | jays custom creations

Often times it takes a bad situation for you to make some necessary corrective changes. This is definitely one of them. While Ive had the intentions of making an air cleaner for my shop for a while now it wasnt until I got yet another sinus infection that I decided to take greater measure in regards to cleaning the air in my shop. My body definitely doesnt like walnut dust and has no problem letting me know. I already installed a HEPA upgrade kit for my dust collector and today Im making a mobile ambient air cleaner cart to clean the shop while I work.

DIY air cleaners are not a new topic. People have been making them for quite some time. All it takes is a decent blower motor to move a lot of air and some good filters. It doesnt make much sense to make an air cleaner if youre going to use low rated filters that wont get the small, dangerous particles.

To move the air Im using is an old furnace blower motor that I picked up from Shawn Stone. After taking the motor out of the housing I found the wiring diagram, hooked it up for the slowest speed, and tested it in both free air and again with filtered restrictions. The amperage draw during theses tests was on par with the rating on the motor label so I was good to go for a fan source.

Filters can be expensive. My original intention was to go to my local home center and buy four of their best filters. The cost ended up being $85.56 with sales tax and the filters didnt have a MERV filtration level listed on them so I passed on getting them there. I ended up getting a box of six MERV 13 filters off Amazon.com shipped overnight to my house for $35 less than the price where I live. So thats the route I went.

Next up was to decide where to put it in the shop. My original plan was to make this cart for my grinder but I accidentally found out that it fits below my drill press very well. The next best thing was to replace the least valued cart in my shop, which is the planer cart. Its a great design that works very well but unfortunately I just pile crap on it more often than not.

The design I came up with is very simple and relatively compact. The blower motor sits in the middle on the base of the cart. Four legs hold the plywood panels and four air filters. The top and bottom are just 1/2 plywood. Casters on bottom with the planer on top. Also, and integrated power switch. Very simple. For those who are interested, I have a free SketchUp file available for this cart.

The legs were sized in the design to be regular 24 boards. I thought I had some scrap 2x4s on hand but as it turned out I did not. However, I did have some extra 210 stock so I cut my material out of them. The first step for almost every project of mine is at my miter saw station. Its so convenient to have a dedicated miter saw station that can handle large material with ease. Its also got a ton of storage. I highly recommend making something similar if you can.

Each one of the legs needed to rabbets cut on opposite corners. The dimensions of the rabbets were not symmetrical so this required a different setup for each of the cuts. I chose to use a regular table saw blade to remove the material with two 90 degree passes. In this picture Im making the final cut on one of the rabbets. Notice that the waste material is on the outside of the blade and not between the blade and the fence. Do not cut rabbets like this with the waste material being removed between the blade and the fence. It will almost always shoot back like a missile when it is cut free.

All of the plywood on this project is scrap 1/2 plywood. Its birch PureBond hardwood plywood. Ive been using this stuff for over a year now and have not had any problems out of it. And its made in the USA and formaldehyde free which are both great.

The blower motor didnt have anything convenient on it to use to mount it to the cart so I added a couple of scrap pieces of pine. These are secured to the blower housing through the inside with sheet metal screws.

With the mounting situation figured out I transferred the appropriate geometry for the exhaust opening on one of the panels. To cut it out I first drilled four holes on the interior corners and then connected them with a jigsaw. You can get surprisingly straight and smooth jigsaw cuts with a decent blade and a speed square. Im using an inexpensive 12 plastic speed square here. Its one of my favorite under-valued tools.

For assembly I started with the front and back. To keep everything in place while I drove screws I used a pipe clamp with gentle pressure. I didnt want the legs to bow up on the sides. Only enough pressure to prevent the panel from sliding as it is secured.

Where the lower side panels and bottom panel meet I added a strip of really strong duct tape to prevent any air seepage through the joint. This joint is just a butt joint and might open up by a tiny amount over time and I didnt want unfiltered air to be sucked in. Is there anything that good duct tape cant fix?

The rabbets in the legs provide a surface for the filters to rest against and prevent collapsing in but at this stage there isnt anything to prevent the top and bottom of the filter from collapsing. So I glued on some scrap plywood for the lower edge of the filter.

The electrical is extremely simple. I chose to run power in through a small hole on one of the side panels. A few zip ties on wire on the other side of the plywood prevent the wire from being accidentally pulled back through. From there the power is ran through another set of wires up to a switch mounted on the front of the cart. If the switch is activated power will then run back through the second wire and then power the motor. This is a very simple setup and much greater information can be found on it with a quick Google search.

The last step was to add a couple of swivel clips to hold the filters in place. These are just pieces of 5mm hardwood plywood (sold as underlayment plywood locally) secured with a single washer head screw.

Great project, and under one of the biggest dust/mess makers in the shop when I make mine im going to make a minor change, use a weatherproof box and add a weatherproof cover over the switch(http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-Toggle-Switch-Cover-R5133330/202043422) call me a worry-wart, but I see arcs inside a big-box switch when it is used and with that much fine dust around I dont want my shop ending up as a statistic

Good job Jay. Ive been wanting to do something like this for a long time now. Will you ever start painting / staining any of your stuff ? Carts, tables whatever ? Your shop is really awesome and you obviously have some favorite teams that have some great colors. Using one of your favorite teams colors would make your shop really come alive.

Great project, what we all need. Gave away by blower motor when I moved, need to find another one for this project, All your videos are informative and well made. Keep them coming. This is on my list of must have. Thanks Jerry

Jay heres my 2 cents worth I like the mask you are now using. I like the HEPA filters you are (and will be) using. Why, you ask, am I even bothering with telling you this? Because, in researching emphysema (yes, Im an ex-smoker, and Ive got emphysema) I came across some info from a guy who was talking about the micron-sized dust we create when we do much more than just look at a piece of wood. Yes, invisible wood dust. So, Im gonna close the barn door now. I dont want to lose another horse! I know that I caused my problem, and I would not wish emphysema on even my worst enemy. (Well, maybe on my truly worst, worst-worst enemy! But not on anyone else.) I will just say this, and hope that anyone who reads it considers it carefully its a real pain in the you-know-what to not be able to get air. I can no longer ski, SCUBA, garden, dance cant even make love right anymore I could still do these things and a lot, lot more if only I could get air. Take care of yer lungs! It will definitely be worth the trouble and effort to put on that mask (every time) and use the best filtration system available.

Nicely doneIve built some very similar cartssome suggestions to issues I came across would beto mount the switch flush with the leg, like a wall installation, (less protrusions to snag as you work around it), and also add a duplex to plug in the planer or any other tool, and eliminate additional extension cords. Larger casters are a big plus I get mine at Harbor Freight when their moving carts go on sale. For $7.99 you can get a cart with 3 rubber casters. Toss the cart, salvage the castersthats 2 bucks a wheel!!

I use a set up with the same basic design, Its awesome and works really well. However I found I was going through pleated filters at an alarmingly fast rate. I found using a super cheap nested fiberglass filter in front of my MERV-14 pleated filters more than quadrupled their lifespan with no noticeable decrease in airflow. It traps all the rough stuff so the pleated filters only get the fines. I didnt make provisions for mounting the extra filters, I just bungee corded them around, but a more elegant solution would be easy

I noticed that you have progressed in the film making business so much since I started watching your videos. I applaud you, sir. Oh, and you make some really helpful and useful shop organizing stuff. Bravo! I try to upcycle wood from pallets and keep my wood costs to a minimum. Use the scrap wood to build more stuff! I need to start doing the face mask filters like George said above, too.

Another great build! I built a similar type of dust collector several years ago. This unit had 3 filters of varying sizes, having the coarsest on the outside and finer ones behind. This unit only had the one inlet. The dust collector worked good, too good. I spent lots of time cleaning and replacing filters, that said, they performed their intended job. I didnt have any other dust collection in my shop so I built a Cyclonic dust collector with a 1 HP motor, then replaced with a 2 HP. Many revisions along the way.

Long story, but my retirement present was a Oneida V3000. All ductwork was replaced with 24 awg, with a 7 header. I had to install screens on my router table, table saw and compound miter saw, as these tools are piped in permanently and the draw from the fan is out of this world. Awesome machine and with Oneida plans and my local tin shop, this install is right out of a text book.

I was able to confirm that my previous attempts at controlling dust were unsuccessful when I started the fan ;-) And I was also able to confirm the efficiency of the air cleaner as the dust sent in the air when the blower started was quickly captured by the filters.

When I originally left a comment I appear to have clicked on the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and from now on whenever a comment is added I get four emails with the same comment. Perhaps there is a means you can remove me from that service? Thanks!|

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dust collection booths - environmental dust control booth | filter 1

dust collection booths - environmental dust control booth | filter 1

For maximum control of contaminants, environmental dust control booths contain and collect dust, smoke, and fume within the work area. Dust booths may be used for fine to medium particulates, including wood, metal, composites, plastics, fiberglass, dry powder, cement, and toner. In addition, Filter 1 wet dust collector booths provide safe dust collection for aluminum, titanium, and other potentially hazardous dust. Clean Air Consultants designs and installs dust control booths specifically to meet or exceed OSHA compliance for fiberglass, hexavalent chromium, stainless steel, lead, aluminum, beryllium, natural stone, composites, wood, plastics, and other metals.

261 - air quality upgrades - the wood whisperer

261 - air quality upgrades - the wood whisperer

Ill be the first to admit that I have a slight problem: Im a little paranoid about dust. I want as little of the stuff in the shop air as possible so I continually seek out means to achieve that end. While I do wear a respirator while I work, I frequently have to talk on camera shortly after making cuts that put dust directly into the air. Recently I decided to address two concerns with two separate upgrades.

First, I got rid of my cyclones double filter stack and instead opted to vent the fine dust through the wall and outside. The Wynn filter stack I had worked well but it does require frequent maintenance. You have to blow the dust out of the pleats periodically and then empty out the fine stuff that falls into the bottom cleanout. Im never totally confident that the filter is clean enough and its not clear to me at what point the filters need to be replaced. By venting the fine dust directly outside, theres nothing to clean and I can be 100% sure the fine dust isnt landing in the shop. A simple 8 dryer vent is installed in the wall and a piece of flex hose is used to make the connection to the cyclone exhaust port. Special thanks to the folks at ClearVue Cyclones for helping me with the fitting I needed to make the connection!

Next up is an exhaust fan. As good as my dust collection system is, it doesnt catch everything. And its not necessarily the dust collectors fault. Many woodworking tools are designed with dust collection as an afterthought. So if Im in a situation where I need to talk on camera and the shop air is laden with dust, a high capacity exhaust fan would allow me to clear the air quickly and get back to work. So I installed a 30 5500CFM Maxxair Exhaust Fan. Within minutes, the entire volume of shop air is forced out and replaced with fresh air. I installed the fan in the back of the shop which allows me to open the front door to create something of a wind tunnel. Works like a charm!

To test out the fan system, I kicked up a bunch of dust into the air and used a Dylos DC1100 Air Quality Meter to monitor the air quality. After turning on the fan, it took about 10 minutes for the shop to return to normal. Given how much dust I kicked up (enough to be visible to the naked eye) I was pretty impressed.

1 Air loss. If you condition your shop space in the Winter and Summer, punching holes in the wall will certainly create a source of air loss, and not just while in use. There isnt much I can do about the cyclone exhaust but the exhaust fan can be easily covered. My plan is to simply build a hinged insulated box that will cover the fan when not in use. And Ill need to be very strategic about when I use the fan during the Summer months.

2 Safety. Many shops are located in basements and garages that share space with furnaces and water heaters. Venting outside and running exhaust fans creates a pressurized situation that could very well draw dangerous gasses into your shop space. My standalone shop doesnt have any of those things within it so all I need to do is open my front door to create the needed return air. DO NOT install either of these upgrades without doing your research first!

3 Neighbors. Both of these upgrades are noisy and depending on how close your neighbors are and how noise-tolerant they are, there could be a major issue. Im fortunate in that theres quite a bit of space between the houses in my neighborhood as well as the fact that being located near an air force base makes the neighborhood very noise-tolerant. Furthermore, I rarely run loud tooling after 8pm.

Does exhausting outside reduce the air flow for your dust collector? Small shops who use a single stage collector often upgrade the bag to a canister with a pleated filter to gain air flow. My initial thought is now your air flow is reduced to an 8 hole vs all that surface area in your filter. Maybe I am wrong and dont know the full mechanics of this

No I think it would be the opposite, though I cant be sure just how much of an air flow gain there is. The old setup actually connected via a 6 port between the blower and the filter. As big as the filter stack was, there was at least some resistance to air flow. Now, I have an 8 port and almost ZERO resistance since the air is just being blown outside. So again, I cant be sure how much of an increase it is, but I definitely dont think theres a net loss.

For the test, both the fan in the wall and the dust collector remove air from the shop and blow it outside, without returning that air to the shop. Air in the shop would be replenished through an open window or door etc.. So why werent the results from both tests the same? Why did the dust collector make the shop air cleaner? Was the difference in test results just due to the fact that the dust collector was left on for another ten minutes replacing more air, and if the fan were left on for another ten minutes, the meter would again read in the 40s?

Youre confusing the dust collector with the air cleaner. The air cleaner is the thing mounted in the ceiling that filters the interior shop air. The dust collection system wasnt part of the test and wouldnt have any impact on ambient air, for the most part.

For the truly manic about their air quality in shops, you *have* to check out Bill Pentzs site. He suffered some bad health issues due to the fine particles from his shop, and has a wealth of information. Its heavy stuffy but if you really, really, really want to know about the nitty gritty of taking care of your shop air, check it out. Url is http://billpentz.com//woodwork...../index.cfm.

Looks like youve got a good handle on your dust. As an EHS professional, Im curious if you looked at EPA/AZ air permitting requirements for emitting dust (particulate matter) outside your shop? As a business, there are generally requirements for this and I wouldnt want you to get a surprise :). I will admit Im not familiar with AZ laws as Ive been away from Tucson for several years. My guess is you wouldnt be generating enough, but there still may be a requirement to submit. I have dealt with similar situations in Missouri where the company had to go through the permitting process. They eventually received a letter from the state saying they were exempt from any additional air permitting requirements unless production qualities increased.

Hi Marc. You wrote all I need to do is open my front door to create the needed return air. One worry you didnt fully touch on. If the return air contains more dust than the vented air, venting outside can cause more problems than it solves. Think about applying some finish and having the outdoor rif-raf of particles end up all over your new piece.

If the return air contains more dust than the vented air, then Id say its a pretty dusty day outside and Id have my windows and doors open anyway. Also, I cant think of a reason Id have the fan on while finishing. I might turn it on prior to finishing to clear out the air, but having any excessive air movement while the finish is wet will certainly invite more dust nibs in the finish. Filtered return air is certainly a nice precaution, but I probably couldnt justify it in my situation.

I added the same ClearVue Cyclone System to my shop a couple of years ago. The info I got from here and Bill Pentzs site is what led me to invest in the system. The system works great, however the thing is pretty loud. I have been toying with the idea of building a closet around it or venting outside. Not sure what would produce the best results. So, I was wondering, if there is a noticeable difference in how loud the system is? Thanks for all the great info you provide.

Good video. I had a thought about the heating/ac depletion when using that fan. In my house (2700 sq ft) I have an air/air heat exchanger that changes the air completely every 30 minutes with a reported 97% efficiency. Runs continuously. Might work in the shop?

To solve the summer HVAC issue, assuming you have not sold the Wynn filters, had you considered using a Y splitter? Normally you could exhaust outside, but when the AC is running flip it over to the filters.

I considered this in my old shop and in fact, it was part of the original plan. But the reality was I just never bothered setting it up and the AC just wasnt the issue I thought it would be. While it will be wasteful to run the DC while the AC is on, the reality is that once the interior space is cooled, it doesnt take long to cool it back down again. Evacuating the air and replacing it with warm air is a very different situation than trying to cool a hot building thats been sitting with no AC at all.

You can determine when the filters need replaced by installing an air pressure manometer (such as a Dwyer Series Mark II 25 Molded Plastic Manometer or similar) with the tubing intake at the bottom of the filter stack. I use the following suggested by Bill Pentz:

When and how do I clean my filter bag? Knowing when to clean your filter is mostly a matter of feel or buying an air gauge. If the flow is falling you need to clean. When to replace your filter is tougher. You have to monitor particulate count, pressure, or be conservative and do early filter replacement. With particle counters far too expensive for most, it comes down to buying a pressure gauge and carefully tracking the pressure or just regularly replacing filters. When the pressure starts dropping (from the original new value) after each cleaning your filter is near if not already needing replaced. Here is how to do that monitoring, at least what works for me. Put an air gauge on your system when you get new bags. For this to work you need a consistent situation. For those with ducting I suggest running with your two closest largest ducts open and all else closed. If you do not have ducting, then test with only a 10 length of flex hose connected. First record the pressure with no bag then with your bag. The difference is how much resistance your bag adds. Next record the pressure every time you clean your bag by either vacuuming or blowing it down. Dont use more than 40 PSI to clean your filters or you will kill them early. The pressure should rise rapidly for the first three cleanings then slowly rise for the next six or so. Then the pressure should stabilize after every cleaning. When the pressure fails below its normal after cleaning pressure, it needs attention. If you have a blended poly paper filter like most cartridges, you need to replace the filter. If you have an all poly heavy filter bag or cartridge you need to run the filter through a washer and start over. If the pressure does not quickly build up to the same prior resistance levels, then that poly filter is probably shot and needs replaced.

Last try Proper exhaust filter pressure for dust collectors ((using a water/radon manometer)): less than 1 inch when clean (if higher = not enough filter area) greater than 2.5 inches = need to clean filter

Ive vented my dust collection to the outside my shop for many years, all of it, without any type of pre-collection. Actually my dust collector sits outside of my shop in an unconditioned space. Makes it really nice for noise,or lack there of. It also makes it great for the pasture outside, in that it grows greener and plusher. It can make it cold during winter months, but as with the AC, it warms back up within a few minutes. What I did was have a return air vent, wlth louvers made, that looks similar to your exhaust fan exterior vent. It simply opens as necessary to replinish the air youre exhausting. Then the louvers drop back down when the exhaust system shuts off. That way you dont have to open the door, or a window every time you momentarily turn on the system. As far as air flow is concernedthink about itthere is no filter to restrict airflow, of course the airflow is increased. To a point of almost 1/3 more. Ive never noticed wind having any effect other than distributing the exhaust better. And as far as particulates in the airthere is far less than simply mowing the lawn, or burning a new EPA approved Woodstove over a long period of time (or especially one thats not). And its not like youre emiting anything poisonous that would effect someone 300 yards or further away, or even within 30 feet. AndIts not like you have a cabinet shop with 20 employees producing a truck load of cabinets every day. Its a great way to exhaust dust, and reduces the risk of fire. I very much enjoy your site and your videos.

I have a similar approach that I call Defense in depth. Collect at the source (using a Clearvue with large mains) , wear personal respirator when needed, augment with air cleaner and use exhaust fan for certain high dust operations. I use a Dylos to define the current DEFCON. When the Dylos numbers are low (DEFCON 1), I dont use a respirator. But when the particle counter goes into the unsafe zone, we go to DEFCON 2, 3 or 4 and on it goes. Only with the respirator on will I use the air cleaner while in the shop, otherwise its for clean-up operations after the war it drops me back to DEFCON 1 within an hour or so. I dont have the luxury of venting my Clearvue outside but will occasionally use a large volume window fan to exhaust ambient air, leaving a door or window open to provide air flow.

What your doing is fine in terms of getting the particles outside. Essentially youve taken the whole house fan concept and adapted it to your shop. The problem is that your essentially pumping your nice air-conditioned or heated air outside and replacing it with air sucked in from the outside world. I understand you live in Arizona, Phoenix area I believe, so in July your going to be essentially exchanging air at 75F in your shop with outside air (110F). Bottom-line, your going to run up your power bill doing this and its probably going to be uncomfortably warm while your doing it. Generally those fans can move a lot more air than most air conditioners can keep up with

Your case might be a bit different since this is essentially your business. But for most of us hobbyists I think the best (aka cheapest most efficient) way to do this, is to just use the internal cyclone systems weve got during the day for most operations and save the high dust generating jobs until the evening/morning. Im in southern cal, so while it does get hot during the day, the evenings in most cases get down into the 70s. I just open the garage roll up door and strategically place an ordinary fan so it blows the dust that escapes my vacuum system away from me and out the garage door.

I had a delta 1 1/2 horse bag type chip collector / dust distributer. So bad I quit using it. Converted it to a cyclone with Oniedas Super Dust Deputy and 1 micron canister final filter. 50 gallon chip collector. I get about a quart size amount in the plastic bag under the final filter per 50 gallons. Works fantastic. I have a 6 inch main duct about 30 feet. 7 gates to 4 inch. Flex hose from there to my machines. Longest flex is 14 feet to my drum sander and it sucks up virtually all of the dust that beast creates. Average CFM at the 4 in gates is 550 CFM and 5000 ft. per minute. (measured with a Digital Anemometer )

Any ideas on how to use an air exchange approach in a basement shop where there is no outside access across from where an exhaust fan would be placed. For example my shop is in the basement and given the design of where my shop is I am surrounded on three sides by concrete and the fourth side is where an exhaust fan (probably a window based unit) would be installed. Short of cutting a hole in a concrete wall, do you see any alternatives to getting fresh air in so that the fan can draw across the work area?

Also you comment about knowing your space and the impact pulling gas from water heaters and furnaces peaked my curiosity since I have both a gas furnace and water heater in the basement can you elaborate on how to take this into consideration when ventilating the room?

Question: Any advice for air quality control/dust collection for someone with very limited financial resources and a home garage shop (rental, not own)? Im just not at a place where I could pay a couple grand for the cyclone you mentioned. Currently, Im just moving a shop vac around whenever I can, and using a leaf blower to push the dust out open garage doors when it feels like a woodstorm. Frankly, Im getting tired of the crazy amount of wood dust everywhere, and worried about my respiratory system long term.

To address the wasted air conditioning: Yes you are sending all your conditioned air out the pervrebial window! But in my research for heating my space (looking at a solar heated slab), the energy needed to cool the volume of air in your shop is minimal. So long as you dont leave it on long enough to heat up all the mass in your shop (think lots of steel, cast iron, and concrete slab!) your recovery time will always be pretty quick. I would worry more about the humidity and condensation. I know, your in AZ.. what humidity; but I say it more for others. My shop stays about 10 degrees cooler than the ambient outdoor noontime temp, just by keeping it closed up as much as possible (and I run a dehumidifier). But If I open the big door for long I can actually watch water bead up on my TS table!

I live next to a person who runs his dust collection system about 25 plus feet out of his building thru a metal pipe and into a trailer. It is SO incredibly noisy, but he is a local so Im terrified to talk to him. He also has about 4 empty fuel tanks and fuel barrels outside his shop which makes me triple freaked out. My property is literally 15 feet from his shop. The noise is ruining my life and probably bringing the property value down as well. Is this legal to run the tubing out of the shop like this and is there anything to do to make it more quiet? I am going to have to deal with this and want as many ideas as possible from people who have these things. HELP!!!!

I was looking at ideas and Nobody mentioned the word swamp cooler. If you live in a dry climate like Colorado they work great in the summer months .winter time is a different story I can pump 6000 cfm through my basement windows while I am cooling the house down. It is not a total solution but it is a bonus solution plus i already got it paid for It would even work for a attached garage

I tried searching for OSHA regulations on this number in woodshops without much success (only exposure metrics), but some other sources estimate around 5 changes/hour. Just curious was there a specific guideline you were following, or just playing it safe? I am trying to calculate what I should use in my garage, thanks for the help! :)

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