suzuki bandit 1200 (1996-2006) review & used buying guide | mcn

suzuki bandit 1200 (1996-2006) review & used buying guide | mcn

The GSF1200 Bandit, or Suzuki Bandit 1200 as everyone calls it, was a game-changing motorcycle. Launched a year after the GSF600 Bandit, which shook up the naked middleweight class, the bigger capacity model took the GSX-R1100s air/oil-cooled motor and after a re-tune and capacity hike stuck it in a steel frame to create a bargain naked bike that defined muscle bikes for the rest of the 1990s and early 2000s.

A bike ripe for modification, loads of Bandits were altered, drag raced, stunted, crashed etc etc while an equal number were left standard and just enjoyed for what they were a monster motor in a decent chassis with a bargain price tag. How bargain? In 1996 a Bandit 1200 would cost you just 5999 and came in either naked or slightly more practical half-faired S guise, which was an equally reasonable 6399 when it arrived in 1997.

So popular was the Bandit during its lifespan that owners clubs sprung up all over the world and in the UK business such as Bandit Mania (now closed) and Just Bandits were formed to cater for the huge demand for aftermarket parts. Running in air/oil-cooled form until 2006 when it grew in capacity to become the Bandit 1250 (ok, GSF1250...) and gained a new water-cooled motor, to many the older oil-cooled bike is the epitome of this iconic naked bike. Its not perfect but its basic nature and huge scope for improvement make the Bandit 1200 a hugely popular machine and one that still has a massive worldwide fan base.

Although now a Bandit 1200 can feel fairly long in the tooth compared to a modern super naked, it still has bags of charm and the air/oil-cooled motor has more grunt than a pig farm. Not only that, there are still loads of aftermarket firms more than happy to help you bring a Bandit 1200 a bit more into the modern era...

Once you've read this review and our owners' reviews, there's every chance you'll want to join a community to meet likeminded owners, buy and sell parts and bikes, or just research more about the Bandit 1200. We'd recommend the Bandit Owners' Club.

As standard it has to be said, the Bandit 1200 does feel dated. With conventional forks and a soft shock, even in its day the Bandit was a bit soggy in the bends and on a used bike it can be even worse due to a number of factors.

The stock shock is very poor, so owners simply swap it for an alternative from a quality supplier or transplant one from another motorcycle, while the forks benefit from stiffer springs and a heavier weight of fork oil. Some owners add jack-up kits (longer dog bones on the back suspension) to give it a bit more attitude while others go the whole hog with complete front end changes.

But there is more to sorting a Bandits handling than just its suspension and a lot of used bikes suffer with seized suspension linkages (the service schedule says strip at 35,000 miles, which is way too long, aim for every few years) and head bearings are also a problem area that is well discussed on Bandit forums such as www.banditforum.co.ukand can cause the bike to weave if badly worn or water has got in and caused them to rust.

Onto the brakes and with twin four-piston calipers the Bandit is ok but not outstanding and much like the rest of the bike they can be improved upon through braided lines, a rebuild and high friction pads. The later model (2001-onwards) has six-piston units, which are marginally better but still not amazing. A few swap calipers but again, this is going down a route that generally most owners avoid. Watch out for seized rear calipers as they are underslung, putting them in direct firing line for road crud.

A huge draw for Bandit owners is the fact it makes a great pillion bike and the motor shrugs off the extra weight without breaking a sweat while the seat is really comfortable for both rider and pillion. As a two-up cruiser, the Bandit 1200 rules.

Make sure they balanced the carbs and check the pilot screw settings. Standard is one and three quarter turns out, but if you take them to three-three and three quarters youll get much more bottom end and smoother running.

However if you want grunt then the Bandit will deliver and it packs a fairly hefty 68ft.lb of torque with 100bhp. Relaxed and easy-going and also a very solid lump, the Bandit is very easy to work on and many owners do all their own maintenance.

One issue that is starting to plague Bandit 1200 models is the carbs gumming-up if left standing due to modern fuel and if the bike doesnt tick over smoothy or is a pig to start, assume there a blockage in there that needs cleaning out. The carbs were updated in the 2001 but there isnt a significant performance gain and the gearbox has always only had five gears in there, so dont go looking for a sixth!

Speaking of gearing, a popular mod is to lower a Bandits gearing for more stomp, which isnt a bad thing to do and doesnt make it too revvy at motorway speeds. As the motor is so old you have to give it a few allowances and the gearbox can be a touch clunky and the clutch not as light as on some modern bikes but to ride the low and mid-range power makes is a really enjoyable experience. A lot of owners fit aftermarket exhaust systems to the Bandit and that is not only to enhance the sound but also because the OE system has a habit of rotting through at the collector box. A quick fix is to weld in a new link pipe, which sorts the issue, but systems arent horribly expensive with downpipes starting at 190 and slip-ons from 130.

To adjust the chain I usually put a small spanner in the rear sprocket and roll back four teeth, then tighten the adjusters, lock nuts and spindle... Roll wheel forward, remove spanner... And check again with two fingers on top of swingarm but under chain for freeplay... The gearing is standard too...Roy, MCN forums

All you have to do then to get the tension right is make sure you adjust each side by exactly the same amount and double check it with your ruler as you go. Less haste, more speed and you should be fine.

Bandits are reasonably well finished and aside from a bit of corrosion here and there and the well-known exhaust rust the main issue with early Bandits comes from the wiring loom, which can rub and wear through, leading to electrical problems.

The steel frame can rust in small areas if the paint is chipped but thats not really Suzukis fault. The finish on the motor could be better and a fair few owners fit a belly pan to keep it a bit more protected. In general the Bandit is a reliable bike and the motor is very solid, by now your main problems are down to wear and tear and items such as the bearings needing replacing.

OurSuzuki Bandit 1200 owners' reviews show mainly positive scores, with the only prevailing negative point regarding the fact that the carbs need rebuilding every now and then - something you need to accept for bikes of this age.

If you are prepared to get the spanners out, and most Bandit owners are more than happy, the 1200 is a cheap bike to run. It returns a fairly reasonable 35-40mpg and parts are both cheap and plentiful, especially if you are happy to fit used items from online auction sites. A full service kit will set you back about 60, which include plugs, filters and oil, and access is easy and quick to fit it yourself.

In terms of value, you can buy a nice Bandit 1200 for about 2500 that has covered a few miles with 3000 - 3500 more than enough to source a real beauty. Is that good value? Its not bad but you are getting get a lot of metal for your money, but it is also quite old technology when you compare it with bikes of a similar price tag.

As standard the Bandit was quite lacking, however ABS was an optional extra on the S and you do get a fuel gauge on all Bandit models. In terms of aftermarket accessories, well the worlds your oyster.

If you want more performance there are big-bore kits (1216cc is popular but they can go bigger), carb jet kits, performance air filters and even a few turbo kits. Those touring may wish to opt for panniers, a top box, screen (unless you have the half-faired S model, in which case you can get a taller screen), heated grips or a comfort seat.

To give it a bit more of a butch look then owners fit Renthal bars, new levers, bar-end mirrors, tail tidies and some even go as far as to give the bike a new paint job. Extreme alterations include polished swingarms, clear clutch covers, whole new front end, paint jobs, the list goes on and on.

The biggest worry when buying used is the competence of the mechanic who fitted any extras and if they will improve or hinder the bikes ride. If it has new bars fitted, always check the brake lines are long enough and wont become tight when the forks are fully extended and that the throttles action isnt compromised but getting the bike ticking over and then turning the bars from lock to lock, if the engines revs rise, be worried.

5/5 WHEN MODIFIED. The B12 is Clark Kent. Get him out of the phone booth by improving the suspension (shock and for kit), junking the stock silencer, adding a proper jet kit (Ivan's Performance works great on mine), and maybe a better seat (Corbin, etc). Suddenly it becomes Superman, can handle with the best and do ANYTHING from trackdays to long-distance touring. My '98 B12 has a JE pistons 1216cc kit and some light headwork. It's bulletproof reliable and gives me 120HP at the rear wheel and 82 lbs of torque, with a curb weight of 485 lbs. Mine currently has 150,000 miles on the clock. With some careful, researched mods, this is one fantastic and versatile motorcycle. I'm waiting for Japan to swing 'round this way again

You have to keep the fuel system clean...and it will not tolerate a dirty air filter. ALSO- many of the early GSF12's had a 3mm MISALIGNMENT (out-of-plane) between the front and rear sprockets, which can be fixed by changing the inner rear hub spacer to a 2002 part and trimming 3mm from the left side wheel spacer. This greatly diminishes the bike's "buzzy" feel and improves chain life.

After having various 'superbikes' over the years, I purchased this bike for a one-off trip and intended to sell it on immediately after. Seven years later I can't bear to let it go. It handles well, it gets to 100mph quick enough to satisfy all but the idiots, fuel consumption is adequate, it is easy to maintain and finally has given me more smiles than any other bike I have owned. Brilliant.

I love the way the bike looks. Accessories-wise, select panniers carefully and protect the paintwork from rubbing. I would prefer both headlights to work on dip and full beam together, but the lights are decent enough.

Buying experience: This bike came off a private lot in pristine condition with only 3500 miles. only paid $1750. a bargain!! Had to rebuild carbs (sitting to long)-stage 3 jet kit and aftermarket pipe.

cant beat GSXR motors even detuned they go like stink when you pull the throttle back, though mk1 bandit benefits from 14tooth front sprocket, gearing is too long standard and struggles to get to its top speed, 14t sprocket sorts that out quickly and easily, and cheaply!!

my bike has only done 1500 miles, the only corrosion on the bike is on the torque arm, and the little piece of mild steel guard over the collector on the exhaust, other than that it is pretty mint for an 18 year old bike

Grunty 1200cc engine means you dont have to rev it above 5k. If you are bringing up the revs, you'll be doing some serious illegal speeds. The engine is a bit lumpy at tickover, but once moving is fine.

Travelling around Scotland the link pipe rotted through and it made one heck of a noise. Had to get all the way back to Lincolnshire with one shouty pipe. Everything else is engineered well enough to last if looked after, whilst not feeling over engineered to make it expensive.

I've only had it a few months and decided to replace oil, filter an plugs. All cheap standard items so no issues there. One big trip around Scotland I was getting almost 200 miles per tank, which means about 50mpg.

Mine came with Renthal bars which are great around town, not so great after 4 hours. The fairing seems to direct air into my face once you get past motorway speeds, but that might just be my long body.

The 1200 Bandit is nothing special stock, but modified correctly it's the best value out there. The engine is easy - jet kit, exh can, big hole in the airbox, then one has to know how to tune carbs. Suspension - revalve forks, custom shock highly recommended, raise the rear 1-1/2" for quicker handling. With these changes it will handle as well as anything out there, and the engine will make 120 hp 80 #-ft torque from 4400to7500 rpm. Nothing else out there with that king of torque in that rev range - perfect for the street. All that at a very affordable price! I've had my '97 for 15 yrs and 55k of the 60k miles on the clock. I did have to replace 3rd gear (broken tooth) so it gets knocked down some for that.

after riding and owning a large number of bikes for over 40 years i wanted a more upright riding position but still a bike with a fair amount of power and i must say the bandit lived up to both. I bought a 2004 1200S with 8000 miles on the clock in very good condition one owner and good history for just over 2000 and in the last year have done over 4000 miles on weekends and days off from work and must say i have loved every mile.It pulls like a train,is more than fast enough for todays camera infested roads and is comfortable one or two up my wife reckons it is more comfortable on the back than my previous bike which was a vfr800 and i must say i prefer it myself. Overall a very easy bike to ride and to work on with good build quality and looks like a bike should

I bought my bike with 7488 miles on the odometer and paid $2500 in May 2013. I mainly use it for commuting 140 miles round trip in Northern Virginia stop & go traffic, and now have right at 12,000 on her. The summer heat took a toll on me but this bikes engine is bullet-proof and withstood the heat and traffic. I run full synthetic oil to lube the engine and clutch(wet-sump). This bike has sleeper like power. It will lift the tire off at a slight twist of the throttle in 1st gear and won't set it down until 3rd gear. This is my Diamond in the Rough!! Could not be more pleased in a bike. Suzuki hit a home run with this bike

I bought my bike with 7488 miles on the odometer and paid $2500 in May 2013. I mainly use it for commuting 140 miles round trip in Northern Virginia stop & go traffic, and now have right at 12,000 on her. The summer heat took a toll on me but this bikes engine is bullet-proof and withstood the heat and traffic. I run full synthetic oil to lube the engine and clutch(wet-sump). This bike has sleeper like power. It will lift the tire off at a slight twist of the throttle in 1st gear and won't set it down until 3rd gear. This is my Diamond in the Rough!! Could not be more pleased in a bike. Suzuki hit a home run with this bike

I bought my bike with 7488 miles on the odometer and paid $2500 in May 2013. I mainly use it for commuting 140 miles round trip in Northern Virginia stop & go traffic, and now have right at 12,000 on her. The summer heat took a toll on me but this bikes engine is bullet-proof and withstood the heat and traffic. I run full synthetic oil to lube the engine and clutch(wet-sump). This bike has sleeper like power. It will lift the tire off at a slight twist of the throttle in 1st gear and won't set it down until 3rd gear. This is my Diamond in the Rough!! Could not be more pleased in a bike. Suzuki hit a home run with this bike

I bought my bike with 7488 miles on the odometer and paid $2500 in May 2013. I mainly use it for commuting 140 miles round trip in Northern Virginia stop & go traffic, and now have right at 12,000 on her. The summer heat took a toll on me but this bikes engine is bullet-proof and withstood the heat and traffic. I run full synthetic oil to lube the engine and clutch(wet-sump). This bike has sleeper like power. It will lift the tire off at a slight twist of the throttle in 1st gear and won't set it down until 3rd gear. This is my Diamond in the Rough!! Could not be more pleased in a bike. Suzuki hit a home run with this bike

Recently picked up my K1 bandit 1200s after owning several 600s (incl gsf) and a long spell away from bikes before that. Was between the bandit 1200s mk2 and a fazer 1000. Have always had a secret passion for Suzuki and especially the oil cooled variety. I found my 12 in a dealer and it ticked all the boxes.. Lowish mileage, 1 owner and no tacky add ons which seems to be rife on these bikes.. After the first 150 mile ride out I havnt been disappointed and the silky smooth black lump jus surges forward with no fuss. I had reservations after reading scary stories of this bikes tendency to drink fuel, but no need to worry as fuel consumption was reasonable. Still 2 bars on the fuel guage after the trip and we werent exactly hanging about. Complaints of uncomfortable standard seat I didnt experience.. Handles well, stops well and pulls like a train.. If there are any gripes then that would have to be the nigh on useless fairing screen at any decent speed and annoying engine vibes around the motorway legal limit, of course a 6th gear would be bonus too. The standard can is staying as lost count of the amount I have bought for previous bikes and to be honest the novelty has worn thin.. If you are looking to buy one these then I wont hesitate to recommend.. Go do it.. You wont regret it..

I bought my 1997 1200s bandit 8 years ago with 15,000m on the clock the bike has been dynajetted with a race exhaust and k&n air filter it makes 130bhp on the down side i only get 30mpg But its a bit of a wolf in sheeps clothing. Definatly the most fun bike i have owned full of charactor,relable,quick,comfortable and handles reasonably well on a smooth surface. best feature is the grunty engine and riding it always puts a smile on my face.worst feature doesnt like braking going into corners (But if you enter a bend a bit hot dont touch the brakes and the bike will get you round). I have bought 2 other bikes since owning the bandit but i wouldnt ever sell it because i love it to bits. its that good

I've had my K1 '02 1200 Bandit for 6 months now, have owned a '95 'Blade for 5 yrs, vfr750, as well as other bikes, and currently have a Kawasaki GPZ500 too as a 2nd bike. My Bandit had 11k on it in March, i've done almost 2500miles in 6 months and its been a love hate affair. Recently had issues with the coils/ignition cdi unit failing causing misfire, but also the fuel tap needing attention(fuel starvation/vacuum problem). These have highlighted the crazy dealer prices for parts, 116 for a fuel tap, 94 for an ignition coil, 56 for a neutral switch, 32 for an individual rubber inlet manifold(between carb and engine), thats almost 130 for, in essence, 4 rubber tubes! I was shocked by these prices for a motorcycle built solely from Suzuki's 'spare parts' bin and for an engine thats been around for 20-odd years. Anyway its sorted now. The handling at general speeds is good, as too are the 6 pot twin calliper brakes, but as soon as you push the bike a little on country roads you will highlight the very soft front end diving under braking, and in corners it becomes very soggy/jelly-like handling, god forbid if its bumpy too, you'll experience the very essence of a bike out of its comfort zone! The rear is soft too, causing the back to feel 'squidgy' if accelerating round a bend, imagine wobbling the 'bars in a small circular motion(like when pedaling a bike) while leaned over and that is what it will do as it protests as the suspension cannot cope. I am assuming this is very much down to the basic suspension with only a pre-load adjustment and a weight in excess of 214kg. If your a country road rider this isn't the bike for you. But this paints a negative view on a bike which has many highlights. Centre stand is ace, accurate fuel gauge, clock, 2 trip meters, decent headlight, averaging 45-50mpg, decent low down grunt, simple air/oil cooled engine, excellent brakes front and rear, well spaced gearing, able to trickle along at walking pace, easy to keep balance, a small amount of underseat storage too. Overall this bike is an excellent commuter bike, giving effortless overtaking in a leisurely way-no need to rev it to make progress. Keep the bike upright and its a pretty good bike, but corners can show up the basic suspension if done mildly enthusiastically. Hagon springs and shock are available to improve this, but they won't sort the excessive weight problem, rivals are down below 200kg nowadays, even 180kg. Its no cutting edge technology so accept that and you'll be happy.

moved over to the bandit 1200 from a triumph and have never looked back had it for 10 years now and have just got a second one to do up for her indoors to ride would not think of changing it for another bike it has such a following and the owners club is the best around many more years fun to be had on it my advice buy one now

I traded up to my 1200s from a GSX750f (teapot) which was getting a bit long in the tooth at 11 years old. Although the Bandit only has another 7BHP, it's the torque that makes the real difference. If it had enough grip, it could pull tree stumps out, no problem! It's comfortable enough to spend all day riding, and there's no aching wrists or knees to complain about afterwards. My only gripe was that the screen didn't do much, but a 50 touring screen from Banditmania soon sorted that, without affecting the looks of the bike either. If you buy a 1200 Bandit, you won't be disappointed.

i've owned my 1200S for over a year now, bought has a second bike for 2 up touring. second bike must be friendly for home servicing and repairs, be comfy enough for me and her indoors for all day riding and be able to carry gear whether its camping gear or just panniers. the 1200 bandit does all of these jobs and more. i knew the motor form past experience (gsxr1100) and knew it wouldn't disapoint... it didn't. the bike is good to work on and has plenty of power and handling for 2 up work. riding solo is no bad thing neither... its good on the twisties and feels secure (its no race rep though). i had a gsx750f has the 2nd bike before this, good bike but 2 up destroyed the performance. brakes on the 1200 are a masive improvement but keep them in good shape. 6 pot calipers don't have much clearance around the pistons, they can soon fill with crud and start to bind/seize up. overall.. the 1200 bandit is very good bike for very little money with a bulletproof engine, easy to work on, cheap to fix and service and a comfy riding position... it will... do what you want

now had it for another year,thats 4 years near enough,and still nothing has tempted me to part with my cash for a better bike etc.which there are, but at a lot more COST!for little gain.now fitted a hayabusa shock(50 breakers)plus forks sorted.The difference is just amazing the way it now corners once set up,this + the jet kit and evo can+ignition advancer,more than fast enough thank you .Don,t think i want to spend that extra 3000+ to upgrade.

Does just about everything you need it to. Makes me smile every time I ride it. Have noticed this year I am riding harder than ever, have tried BT020 and currently using D208 (good allround choice I think). Buy one you will not be diapointed, I have a flyscreen on the current one and it allows you to run a good 10mph faster on longer journeys, looks a bit weak but works! Strengths: Makes you smile and works in all places. You can ride it right to its limit if you like that sort of thing. Weaknesses: When youv'e had one a while you may like a little more performace and handling. But we all like a bit of a wobble now and then!

I was looking at a Tuono that was 3 years old and 12k on the clock and had almost bought it - then I thought I would do a last visit to the Suzuki dealership in York (top shop by the way - have bought 2 new bike there) and there was a new (old shape K4) Bandit for sale at 4500!! I had convinced myself for years that I would not like the Bandit but took an old one with 20k out for a blast - and within 5 miles was convinced I had found a gem. Walked straight into the shop and bought the new one on the spot. I am still enjoying it 5 months on - put it this way, except for a service and some polish - I haven't been in a bike shop since - which makes a change from once a week. I have started buying some trick bits for - Renthal Handlebars, HEL Brakelines - but what a bike for the price - Great!!! Strengths: Price Price Price! The torque is good - top end speed great fun - instant wheelies - but only if you want them. Fun and Fun! Weaknesses: Always hated the shape of the tank - but is that a weakness or just my personal taste? Some bits do feel cheap (but 4500 new!) - Stainless Steel brakelines are a must.

Just upgraded to the 1200S from a naked Bandit 600. The bike is fantastic!!! It just pulls in all gears and handles like stink. When I picked it up it was fitted with fairing lowers giving it the look of a sports tourer and with only 11,000 on the clock it's got lots of life left. I was cruising along enjoying the ride before I realised I was doing 100MPH and when I ducked down under the fairin gI ot 145MPH before I decided enough was enough (On private land of course). I think the only thing I don't like about the bike is the way I keep burning my boots on the exhaust (maybe my feet are just too big). I plan on keeping this bike for a lot of years and will likely enjoy every mile. Strengths: Pulling power, handling, looks, bulletproof engine, comfort, economy (I used to commute Newcastle to Edinburgh on my 600 and it would cost me 11-12 each way, it cost a little over 10 on the 1200). Weaknesses: I can't really find any that aren't just being too picky.

Its a year since I last reviewed the bike. I was tempted to px for a sports bike & I tested a R1 & it cooled me down. This was an amazingly fast bike but it just felt clinical & the position killed me. Getting back on the bandit & it just felt it had more character - its that wallop load of torque @ 4k revs. So I've decided to keep it - @ the end of the day the riding position makes it great around town & it pulls fine on the open road - just wish it had the extra gear. The engine is strong & so far after 15 mths its been completely reliable - I use it everyday through the winter. Mods - fitted a blueflame pipe, fendaextenda & screen - not sure about the screen - The next is to get a decent seat as the stock it like stone after 100 miles. Aparently fitting a 14 teeth front sprocket releases 7% more torque with a slight loss @ the top end BUT post 2001 the speed is recorded from the front sprocket & so the electronic speedo will record extra miles than have actually been done. Strengths: Great bike - good around town & great on the open road - the torque is alot of fun. Weaknesses:
Wsh it had an extra gear.

Bought my 2003 1200s a year and a half ago, it had 1100 miles on the clock with over 1500 worth of accessories, scottoilier, absoloute protec alarm, corbin seat, panniers, etc etc, been ridden two since I had it, pulls great, breaks great, and the screen is good, especially when you get over 90mph as you enter a 'pocket of air flow'. can be a little to heavy with luggage, other half and me. have addes loads of 'nice' mods, belly pan from france, stainless bolts, wavey black front discs, goodridge hoses, k+n filter, Yoshi can and stage 3 kit, ignition advancer, deristrictor kit for the ignition, as there restricted for the eu market, 14 tooth front sprocket adding 7% more tourque, nearly there now!!! Strengths: Engine, ride position, breaks, loads of accessories, grunt!! Weaknesses: Bolts, weight, lean angle (grounds out to easily).

What a bike ! At this price , including 2 years free servicing !! There is no other choice. I was contemplating a vfr , but once I had a ride, I was convinced. all the write ups about monster wheelies filled me with trepidation , but there is no need to worry you can ride this bike and still enjoy oodles of performance without gunning it. the other good thing about this bike is that it looks like a real old fashioned proper bike. Strengths: Engine, torque, looks. Weaknesses: Havent found any.

As an older rider I find the bike comfortable to travel 100 miles + in one go, very impressed with the engine no matter what you do with it it wants more, the screen needs to be a little higher for my style of riding, but thats just my own opinion, on good advice I have fitted chrome engine protectors which fully protect the lower casing , this I think is a must. Strengths: Good riding position, mpg good if rode sensibly, good gear box nice and smooth. Weaknesses: Screen a bit low, foot pegs mounted on rubbers move a bit.

Ive had my bandit for over 3 years now, and I must say it is the best bike I have ever owned, and Ive had a few, I have never had a problem with it, it is very easy to maintain and is cheap to run I get 5500 miles out of the tyres no problem, it must be good if Ive kept it for over 3 years, I normally get bored after 12 months. Strengths: Very easy to ride, powerfull, reliable. Weaknesses: The finish is not as good as it should be, nuts and bolts and exhausts the main worry, but can be replaced quite cheaply.

I returned to bikes 3yrs ago with the 600 version and soon wanted the bigger brother. Have owned my Bandit now for 12mths, have used it for day trips and for touring in Europe to watch MotoGP. It passes each test admirably whether as a solo or with pillion and full luggage. Can be a bit lairy on the front end if abused equally is a pussycat around town. Ideal as an entry into large muscle biking. Strengths:
The engine is bomb proof, found it to be very torquey, just open the throttle and hang on. MPG not too bad at 40mpg whilst travelling to Assen fully loaded. Parts are easy to come by and custom parts make it an ideal bike to make to individual tastes. Weaknesses: Looking a bit dated now in relation to colour scheme. Can rip out rear tyre if not treated with respect.

Had it for a year now, as an old git it suits me. Power/torque all there, comfort up to about 100 miles. Screen to much wind blast at 80+fuel a lot better than you could wish for from a bike like this 45mpg+easy. Finish for winter is poor. BT 020's made a very big change to the way it handles. Strengths: A good alround bike for the real would. Weaknesses: Don,t try to ride it in winter!

Tank range 100 miles (35mpg). Handling reasonable, Tyre life good F8000 R6000 (macadams). Service every 4000 (doddle). Comfortable. Excellent gearbox. Far better looking than the latest bikes. Cheap insurance for old farts, 150 comp. Engine is unburstable with regular servicing. A difficult package to beat. This is the preffered tool of loony's and stunt riders the world over. To you and me that means in our hands its going to last a very very long time. Strengths: Strong, powerful, flexible(Torquey) engine. Simple cheap maintenance. long component life. Weaknesses:  Quality of finish, will deteriorate quickly if not looked after. Zillions of them so trade in prices ridiculous. (run it into the ground, should take about 20 years :-)

From the engine to the suspension this is a bitsa bike and this makes it really easy to source parts and improve on the basic concept where it is found lacking. Mine has the compulsory race can, extra 5bhp, white power rear shock, progressive wp front shocks and a dyno jet free flow filter and jet kit. I have owned the bike for 4 years and put 12000 miles on it, best mpg has been 86 at the mag economy run and worst is usually around 25. Its a good all rounder and can tour and scratch with the rest but it is limited by the size of its tank and by its lack of protection for the rider. Clutches are a major glitch on an otherwise clear horizon and replacement is getting to be a chore, I am on my third and that has started to slip again. I have had 6 rear tyres on this bike so this is one of the penalties of a heavy right hand. I am currently on my second front but this will need changing soon as it has become pointed, too many roundabouts? No major rust but lots of minor chips where the.. Strengths: Bandits are easy to work on there is nothing that you cant do yourself with a normal range of tools. Performance and usability are good. Weaknesses:
From my own experience the clutch has failed twice and rear tyres are a major ongoing expense. Finish is thin but ok if you use a winter bike to prevent the worst of the weather from attacking it.

This bike will do anything you ask of it. Spend a few quid on some stainless bolts and away you go. Potter around all day or scare your pants off, it'll do it all. Only 2 gripes are diving front end under braking (progressive springs imminent) and blurred mirrors (cured above 110 which it'll do all day at unbelievably low revs). And there's a zillion aftermarket bits to personalise it too. If it's economy you're after the Bandit will do over 200 miles to a tankful. Do you think I'm pleased with it? You bet I am. You just can't get this much fun anywhere else for under 5 grand :-) Strengths: Proven, simple torquey engine. Weaknesses: Front suspension, cheap nuts n bolts.

I have just entered the bigger bore bike game by buying a used Bandit form a dealer in my area, it was advertised at 2500, but after some haggling I got the deal for 2200!!, when I first opened it up it took me by shock not suprise, what an engine!. It does not seem to shake it one or two up it just pulls and pulls, not in the uk officer (honest) I was doing 120mph two up and when I opened the throttle it just surged forwards, (big grin). I have now added the aftermarket can and it sounds awsome and it really does unleash the extra horses you hear about. The seat is uncomfy after about 80 miles but I am awaiting a custom seat that should cure this, a great deal form the guys at justbandits. I can only say that if you are thinking about a bandit 12 stop thinking and do it!!.....Strengths: The engine, and riding position. Weaknesses: Brakes but still ok, wind blast but good with an aftermarket flipup fitted.

Bought this 2003 model in April 05. First big bike after a Fazer 600, but the weight is carried low. Do alot of town riding (there's no way I 'need' this bike 'cause I live 3 miles from work!!) & it's very nimble @ getting through the traffic. Just came back from an afternoon in the Welsh valleys & boy is this bike gorgeous. There's loads of torque & the acceleration is oh so silky smooth through all the gears. BUT the bike pulls hard & its easy to get 100+. Overtaking is no problem & the corners are great. I can highly recommend thi bike - amazing value for money. Strengths: Strong acceleration, loads of torque, grin factor, value for money. Weaknesses: Poor suspension, tank range (150m), finish not brilliant.

This bike is ideal for people who want a fun bike but dont want a race rep,plenty of torque, half sensible handling, 40 to the gallon if you take it easy, (I dont), had the bike 9 years and the finish is still pretty good, just keep it clean, I coat all the ally bits with vasaline in the winter, you must have a race can to get the best from the engine, believe me it makes a real difference, the bike revs out properly with the art can i have, feels strangled with one can. Strengths: Price, you wont get more fun for your money, you can do all the servicing yourself. Weaknesses: Wind blast over 90, but its the same for all naked bikes, vibration! replaced about 15 bulbs in the clocks, they buzz like mad.

I bought my Bandit two years ago after three years on a Kawasaki W650 [that was a great bike in its own right] from day one I was in love with this big, red basterd of a bike. It just blew me away with it instant stomp and it can still take me by surprise if I wap the throttle open without thinking. One hell of a bike and I'm damn glad I went into the bike shop that day 2 years ago to buy a can of chain oil. Strengths:
Big engine that looks the biz, goes like hell from tickover to the red line.
Weaknesses: It just lacks the horse power to really tear your arms off and with the standard can on sounds like a Honda.

What a beast lives up to it`s reputation oh and it had to be a black one love it.
Strengths: The engine its just got so much power all you need for the road ride sensible or like a lunatic it makes no difference. Weaknesses: Suspension when you start to push it.

Equating price, power and insurance group it's very hard to beat, must be best all rounder under 5000. Very comfy riding position, just as happy in town as it is ripping up the open road. 70ft/lbs of torque, pulls from 1500rpm in fifth, 40 to 150mph without changing gear! Racing can essential to liberate all those extra ponies, saves 2-3kg also. GSX-R engine indestructable, runs forever. Only problems are underdamped front forks and softish rear shock, but then again it is a musclebike.

Carb icing problems on damp chilly morning @ 0-5degrees. Cutting out after 2-5 miles on tickover. Once properly warmed up, problem vanishes. Dealer assures me it's a petrol issue and as it only happens in these condition, I'm inclined to believe them. I like the comfort, torque and 140 on the clock with loads of revs to go, is plenty fast enough for me. It's an easy, efforyless bike to ride with some serious credibility.

A riot for little money. We all want the latest exotica but the bandit is a barrel of laughs in an affordable package. The finish is budget buy but keep on top of the cleaning and it can be ridden in all weather. The tyres are OK when warmed up, quite easy to grind out on sweeping bends, and look like they'll last for ages yet. On the horizon? a race can and dynojet (more is never enough!) an Ohlins for the rear and does anyone know if the front end of a GSXR will go on to sort out the braking and handling?

This is my first bike, having passed my test via Direct Access on a 1996 600 Bandit. The 1200s was in my top 4 of bikes, I bought it as the insurance was by far the cheapest. from Carole Nash. The other bikes were Fazer 1000, X-Raptor, Tiger. The Bandit is cool to look at and is easy to drive and I would recommend it anyone as a first bike. It still needs a little running in, but is already showing characteristics for torque and speed. I'm please with it, and aboveall I got an excellent price for the new bike. ;-)

Probably the best thing I have ever bought and got my money's worth. Its a project bike in waiting. Any extras you buy for it will improve performance and looks. A rear hugger and extended front fender are the best things to do first. Protect that rear shock and downpipes. For more larfs and wider grins try a race can, wow.

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new to mining? here are the most common types of mining equipment

new to mining? here are the most common types of mining equipment

Working in the mining industry can be a dangerous place if you dont know what youre doing. Regular training is essential and understanding the machines youre working near or operating plays an important role in all aspects of the industry.

Each type of mining equipment comes with its own set of mining activities. The most common types of mining equipment vary depending whether the work is being carried out above or below ground or mining for gold, metals, coal or crude oil. From drilling machines to excavators, crushing and grinding equipment the mining industry comes complete with all the right tools. New to the job and want to find out what it all means? Heres a few of the industrys most common types of equipment and why theyre important for the job.

Probably one of the most common pieces of mining equipment, drills are an important part of the underground mining operation. Underground mining is carried out when rocks or minerals are located at a fair distance beneath the ground. But then they need to be brought to the surface. Underground specialized mining equipment such as trucks, loaders, diggers etc. are used to excavate the material and are normally hauled to the surface with skips or lifts for further processing. Drilling is normally required to place explosive charges to liberate the minerals from the overburden material. Underground mining techniques have progressed significantly over the past years, including using remote controlled machinery.

Drills assist in creating holes descending underground. If miners are required to work underground, drills can also be used in ensuring the holes are large enough to serve as a portal for miners to enter. Directional drilling is also a type of mining technology where miners will use the tools and certain methods to drill wells.

Blasting tools are an essential part of the mining industry and are used to break down and fracture materials (usually rocks) by use of a calculated amount of explosive to liberate the sought-after product from the waste material. Blasting is also used to remove pockets of unwanted material that are preventing mining machines and personnel to get to the seam containing the materials of interest. Unmanned drill rigs will drill holes at pre-determined depths and positions on a blast face to ensure that a particular size fraction is achieved and that little of the overburden is liberated with the blasting to reduce material handling costs. Once this process has been completed, an excavator is used to recover the blasted rocks and other debris that has been dislodged during the blasting. The material is then conveyed to a central conveying system which will take it directly to the surface or via a skip and hoist system.

For above ground mining, earth movers are utilised regularly to carry loose soil and earth from one location to another. Earth movers play an important role in the mining industry because the equipment is specifically designed to work on large earth-moving and mining projects for a faster and more practical process. Used for digging, pushing and transporting the earth, they require the specialised skills of an operator.

Earth movers are heavy mining equipment that the industry would struggle to survive without and work hand in hand with bulldozers. Earth movers are normally used for removing overburden or waste material, which enables the excavators to remove the material or mineral of interest. Bulldozers are used to move this overburden material around to create a working surface for other equipment such as haul trucks and excavators.

As its name suggests, crushing equipment is used to crush rock and stone. Designed to achieve maximum productivity and high reduction rate, mining crushing equipment can come in a variety of different types for a range of jobs.

Crushing equipment is specially configured to break down the hard rock matter or gravel to a manageable size for transportation or conveying. They are valuable pieces of equipment in the industry because they reduce the costs associated with handling of larger sized material and also ensure efficient liberation of elements of interest in downstream processing of the material. In an opencast or strip mining operation, the run of mine (ROM) material is normally transported to the primary crusher by haul trucks, and in underground mining operations it is conveyed to the primary crusher. Crushing equipment is important to the mining process because it reduces the use of precious excavated resources and eliminates the amount of material on site.

Once the excavator transporter brings the raw material to the crusher for processing, the feeding device feeds the material into the crusher and in return the material is screened and all oversized material is recirculated back to the crusher to ensure correct size fraction is obtained. This weighbelt feeding equipment, usually referred to as Weighfeeders, conveys and controls the feedrate into the crusher to improve crusher efficiency.

Feeding and conveying equipment are necessary to the mining industry to move and control material flow within a mining and processing operation to facilitate efficient operation of equipment and determine operating rates and yields. In some instances secondary crushing is required prior to processing of the material. Once the material is at the correct size, fraction processing can occur which could include, milling, flotation, leaching etc.

Belt scale systems let you monitor production output and inventory, or regulate product loadout, while providing vital information for the effective management and efficient operation of your business. There are elemental crossbelt analyzers that provide real-time quality analysis of critical process streams to facilitate sorting, blending and out-of-seam dilution control. While materials are on the troughed belt conveyor, an automatic sampling system (which could be single or multi-stage) can take a representative sample directly from the moving material stream. (Take a look at this video to see how a sampling system works.) Weighbelt Feeders that convey and control feedrate accurately and reliably can reduce material consumption, help maintain blend consistency, and increase profits.

Flow measurement systems provide continuous, real-time flow measurement of free-falling materials or dense phase, pneumatically conveyed bulk solids, which is important to ensure and maintain product quality and process efficiency.

This article was co-written by Jayde Ferguson, who writes for Direct Mining a leading supplier of premier mining equipment, products and services throughout Australia and the Asia Pacific region. Stephan Nel, Global Product/Applications Manager for Coal & Sinter at Thermo Fisher Scientific, co-wrote and edited the piece as well.

Need a Belt scale system for your bulk material handling? To help you decide which belt scale system is best for your mining operation, weve outlined the options in an easy-to-read belt scale system selection guide so you can decide which belt scale system is right for you. Click on the image, take a look at the chart, and see if it helps you decide.

You make a great point about how drills are a very common piece of mining equipment. Choosing the right kind of drill tip can make a big difference in efficiency. Many drill bits will be tipped with synthetic diamonds to ensure that they are as durable as possible regardless of the rock and substrate involved. Thanks for your post.

It is true that working in the mining industry can be a dangerous place if we dont know about the machinery that are useful in mining industry. I hope your post will help people to know about the most common types of mining equipment and how to use them properly. Thanks

Thanks for the information. This really help to understand the different types of equipment you can expect to see in a mine. Drilling is such an important part to the mining process. Drilling and blasting go hand in hand to help break up the hard ground. After all you can gather the material your mining if you cant get to it.

Understating what type of mining equipment like core boxes, seems like a good place to start for beginners. Theres really now way to do a job properly unless youre familiar with the tools and equipment youll be using. It might also help with improving safety.

I AM ABOUT GOING IN TO MINING BUSINESS , ON MY RESEARCH ON HOW IT IS DONE BROUGHT ME TO THIS ARTICLE KUDOS TO Author Bios FOR THIS WONDERFUL HELP I GOT THROUGH UR POST AM GRATEFUL AND I NEED MORE GUIDE LINE TOWARD STONE MINING I AM CHIDI YOUNG

Good luck to you Chidi. Feel free to visit our Cement/Coal/Minerals Learning Center on our website for educational information, white papers, application notes, ebooks, infographics, etc. https://www.thermofisher.com/us/en/home/industrial/cement-coal-minerals/cement-coal-minerals-learning-center.html

I like how you mentioned that drills are needed in the mining industry because these are going to be used in creating holes descending underground. Its also intriguing to learn that the blasting tools are mainly used to break down and fracture the materials. Well, if I had a mining company, I would make sure to place industrial fans in there because these will provide air stream.

equipment you'll find at a typical surface mine - vector solutions

equipment you'll find at a typical surface mine - vector solutions

All of the terms, definitions, and images in this article come from our online MSHA Part 46 Typical Equipment in a Surface Mine training course. Weve included a short sample of that online mining safety course below.

Either track-mounted or tire-mounted, backhoes are a type of excavator equipped with a bucket that faces toward itself. The typical backhoe design incorporates an inward-facing bucket affixed to an articulated arm, or boom. Backhoes are often used for removing and loading overburden as well as scraping down high banks and digging ditches.

Bins and hoppers are containers with open tops for material to enter and an opening at the bottom for material to exit, typically over a conveyor or feeder. They are filled from the top by a loader or conveyor and discharge material at a continuous rate through the opening at the bottom for distribution to other processing and sorting operations.

Feeders transport material a short distance at a consistent rate using conveyor belts or screw conveyors. Feeders may also have an integrated breaker mechanism used to reduce material size as needed for the next processing stage.

Management offices, workshops, storage, refueling, and power generation may all be located on-site. In some cases, a control tower may also be constructed to offer a complete view of processing operations.

Some of the most common types of classifiers are spiral and rake classifiers. Both of these classifiers separate material by dragging the material along the bottom of an inclined surface in a settling chamber from the bottom (inlet) to the top (discharge).

Cone crushers are typically used in downstream crushing operations for medium-sized materials. Like the jaw crusher, the material is fed into the cone crusher from the top and discharged at the bottom. As the material enters the crusher, an eccentrically rotating cone forces the materials against a crushing plate. The shape and movement of the cone progressively reduces the size of material as it moves down through the crushing chamber to the sizing gap above the discharge opening. Resized material may be further sorted and transported to stockpiles or other processing operations.

Draglines, a type of specialized excavation equipment, operate by casting a heavy cable-hung bucket outward from a crane-like boom and dragging the bucket toward itself to remove large amounts of overburden, load ore, and manage stockpiles. Draglines can be equipped with buckets of specific design and weight to match the materials being mined.

Dredges are a type of excavation equipment used to remove material from underwater. They can be land-based or barge-mounted and may employ powerful suction or physical digging methods to bring material to the surface for removal or processing.

Front-end loaders, or simply loaders, are large, typically tire-mounted vehicles with a deep, wide bucket mounted at the front. Loaders are used to load mined material into haul trucks and feeders, push or dump overburden, and manage stockpile or refuse areas. In sand and gravel operations, loaders may also be used for excavation.

Surface mines require the constant operation of heavy equipment consuming large volumes of liquid fuel. Since much of this equipment is not designed to be driven on conventional roadways, refueling must be done on-site making fuel tanks and pumps a necessity. Tanks may be above or below ground and can range in size from 500 to many thousands of gallons.

Active mining operations are often spread across a large area, making walking to distant locations impractical and potentially dangerous. Miners, contractors, and supervisors often need to move quickly between work areas to do their jobs, perform maintenance, and address issues as they arise. A broad range of common passenger vehicles and pickup trucks may share haulage roads to transport people, tools, and small equipment where they are needed.

In-pit belt conveyors are used to move material within a large, active mining pit area or from the pit to loading areas for further distribution within the mine. In-pit conveyors may also move mined material to portable crushing systems that reduce the size of larger rocks or minerals for easier transport.

Jaw crushers are often used early in the production process to prepare material for processing. Raw mined material enters the top of the machine where a moveable jaw opens and closes repeatedly to break the material against a fixed stationary plate. When the material has been reduced to a size small enough to pass through the opening below the jaws, it exits the crusher and may be further sorted for stockpiling or downstream processing.

Most mines will have a maintenance and repair shop onsite to store replacement parts, supplies, tools, and other specialized machinery while providing sufficient space to maintain and repair equipment.

Overland belt conveyors are used on mine sites where there is the need for continuous movement of high volumes of material over long distances, in some cases, several miles. This type of bulk material handling conveyor may be used to transport material from the pit to processing areas or loading areas for rail or barge transport.

Scrapers are a type of earthmoving machine with an open, centrally mounted hopper or bowl with a blade-like leading edge that can be raised or lowered hydraulically to selectively remove and spread overburden over level or relatively level terrain.

Screw conveyors use a rotating, helical screw to move liquid or granular materials through a tube or trough. The screw is commonly referred to as a flighting and may either wrap in a spiral pattern around a central shaft or be shaftless.

Shovels, sometimes called power shovels, are versatile excavation machines, often track-mounted, with a large, outward-facing bucket at the end of a powerful, articulated boom that can rotate 360 degrees. Shovels are used primarily to dig out and remove overburden as well as selectively load material for transport.

Often tire-mounted, skid steers are quick, compact, highly maneuverable, and extremely versatile machines which perform a broad range of vital duties throughout the mine. They may be used in excavation work to carry, spread, and load loose material as well as serve an array of grading, site preparation, construction, demolition, and repair functions.

Track haulage involves the loading and management of specially designed railroad cars to transport enormous volumes of overburden or mined material to other areas of the mine or off-site to distant locations.

Since mining operations exist for the purpose of selling extracted and processed commodities, industrial truck scales are put in place to keep track of transported material volumes. Truck scales are normally situated on drive paths close to where over-the-road trucks exit the mine carrying processed material to customers.

Water reclamation systems remove fine sediments and return a high percentage of the used water back into the mining process. These systems may involve large settling tanks, mud presses, storm water discharge areas, and extensive piping and pumps to reduce runoff, manage environmental impact, and conserve resources.

Weve taken these terms and definitions and have put them together in a multimedia, interactive surface mining equipment glossary. Its cool, and theres even a way for you to download the interactive glossary for free. Go check it out.

Knowing the equipment at a surface mine will help you know whats what and get the job done. Especially if youre a brand new worker or a contractor whos been hired to work at a mine site. So we hope you found some value in this article.

Jeff Dalto, Senior Learning & Performance Improvement Manager Jeff is a learning designer and performance improvement specialist with more than 20 years in learning and development, 15+ of which have been spent working in manufacturing, industrial, and architecture, engineering & construction training. Jeff has worked side-by-side with more than 50 companies as they implemented online training. Jeff is an advocate for using evidence-based training practices and is currently completing a Masters degree in Organizational Performance and Workplace Learning from Boise State University. He writes the Vector Solutions | Convergence Training blog and invites you to connect with him on LinkedIn.

vehicles | timberland equipment limited

vehicles | timberland equipment limited

Effective January 1, 2020, Marcotte Mining will be merged with Timberland Equipment. For Marcotte Mining customers, this change only enhances the relationship between these two companies as they both fall under the umbrella of the Timberland Group, a company that serves a worldwide base of customers with engineered solutions to many of todays most challenging projects in underground mining, heavy construction, electrical power transmission and distribution, marine and fishing industries and offshore oil and gas projects.

Under the amalgamation, Timberland will maintain a support center in the Sudbury area and will continue to provide Marcotte Mining customers with the excellent level of parts and service that have been their hallmark for the last 40 years.

used underground mining equipment for sale. freightliner equipment & more | machinio

used underground mining equipment for sale. freightliner equipment & more | machinio

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