We have been helping customers find the right sharpeners for more than a decade. Selecting a sharpener can be difficult if you're not sure what you need. Our staff is trained to listen to your needs and to help you find the right sharpener the first time. We understand that it may be your first time sharpening, so we're available to help you if you have questions. Even if you're already a sharpening professional, our staff is available to answer your tough questions. We use what we sell, so you can be assured that when you purchase from us, we're able to help you with your sharpener.
We offer many different types and dozens of brands of sharpeners. In fact, we have over 1,500 different sharpening items. Our warehouse is fully stocked to meet your specific sharpening needs. If you need a complete sharpening system, a hard-to-find sharpening stone, or just a replacement wheel, if it is related to sharpening, we probably have it.
We ship everything we sell. We ship Monday through Friday and all in-stock orders placed by 2:00 p.m. CST are shipped the same day. By shipping quickly, we're able to get your items to you faster. That is how we do business and we would be happy to earn your business.
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If you have spare bones from your dinner lying around, grinding them up is a great way to find a use for them. A good meat grinder or blender will turn soft bones, like those from chickens and other small animals, into powder. Ground bones are great as a source of calcium in raw cat and dog food or as an organic fertilizer for plants.
If you want to grind bones, select soft, uncooked bones that are no longer or thicker than your thumb, including wing tips, rib cages, and neck bones. Chop the bones into smaller sections with a meat cleaver. If youre using a grinder or a mixer attachment, feed the bones through one at a time. If youre using a blender or a food processor, grind multiple bones together, along with a little water. Place the bone meal in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Keep reading to learn how to choose the right grinder! Did this summary help you?YesNo
At the Fortune 500 dinner hosted in Prime Minister Narendra Modi's honour at the Waldorf Astoria hostel, Master Chef Vikas Khanna -- who has won a Michelin Star five times, the latest on September 30 -- conceived a delicious seven-course meal.
All along the Konkan coast you will encounter some form of Sol Kadi -- a smooth pinkish-mauve liquid with a complexity of flavours that dance on the tongue: The sourness of kokum, the silky sweetness of the coconut milk and then a burst of spice that surprises and delights all at once.
Kadi, or Sol Kadi, as it is known outside Goa, has many regional variants: Green chillies, fresh coriander and garlic may be added, or it may be seasoned with fried mustard or cumin seeds; it may also be served chilled, warm or at room temperature.
Table-top graters have replaced the traditional metal ones fitted into wooden planks or benches, with the grater at the end of a long curved arm that also doubles up as a sharp knife for cutting vegetables and fish!
South Indian chutneys usually call for a final burst of flavour and texture that is provided by spices tempered in oil, as does this one. You can also add a few split black lentils or split chickpeas to the seasoning for added crunch.
People who know what they are doing can sharpen bits by hand. In theory, hold the bit with the shank angled off to the left at about 59 degrees. As the bit contacts the grinding wheel, simultaneously move the shank farther left and downward while twisting it clockwise. I have tried, but I have never been able to make it work for me.I bought this bit sharpening tool almost 30 years ago for less than $20. The same tool is still available at Amazon and other places, and it is still less than $20. A Drill Doctor is a very nice tool, but it costs four or five times the cost of this tool. I do not sharpen bits often enough to justify the cost of a Drill Doctor.
Notice the angle of the red line. If there is too much overhang in the previous step, the red line will approximate the cutting edge at the tip of the bit. It is too wide and the bit profile will be too flat. The bit will skate on a metal surface and the hole will be hard to start. You can reduce the bit's overhang quite a bit, but be careful. If you reduce it too much, the tip you adjusted in step 4 may come into contact with the grinding wheel and you will damage your sharpening guide.
The ideal is to have the shortest cutting edge possible. This would be a cutting edge that runs between the low points in the valleys of the fluting. See the yellow line. This bit is close to ideal and will cut steel very well.
Set the sharpening guide for the length of the bit you want to sharpen. Keep the end of the bit in the moveable trough, not hanging in the air. Loosen the metal colored nut. Adjust the black nut. Tighten the metal colored nut.
You want the bit to kiss the grinding wheel while sharpening it. If the bit is too close to the grinding wheel; sharpening will be difficult, the bit will become too hot, and you will remove a lot more material than necessary.Keep the base of the sharpening guide square to the surface of the grinding stone (green lines), but turn the upper portion of the guide so the tip of the drill bit is just a little to the left of the center (angle between long green line and the yellow line). Slide the guide forward so the bit lightly touches the grinding wheel's surface. Clamp the guide to the table.
Swing the rear of the sharpening guide to the right (red arrow) so the tip of the bit moves into the wheel. The yellow shower of sparks is added in a photo editing program, but the actual grinding happens when the bit is in about this position.
Continue swinging the guide until the tip of the bit is beyond the cutting wheel. You need to rotate the bit one-half turn and repeat the process in order to sharpen the other half of the bit. It is safer to turn the motor off and wait for the wheel to stop. Loosen the hold down on the bit and turn the bit one half turn. Make sure the flute rests on the guide's tip. Repeat the process from the last two steps.Shut the motor off. Remove the bit. Check width of the center cutting edge on the bit. Adjust the overhang and repeat the grinding process if it is not satisfactory.
This is how your bit should appear. Notice there are no longer any worn, rounded cutting edges casting glints of light. Everything is sharp and crisp. The length and angle of the cutting edge at the tip of the drill bit are good, too.
A sharpening guide like this one works well for bits 1/8 inch and above. It does not work with smaller bits than 1/8 inch. Make a special wooden block to serve as a guide for a handstone when sharpening small bits. The angle of the lines in red is 77 degrees. Make the block about 4 inches long.
Notice the "V" in the top surface of the block. It runs the length of the block and makes a place for the small bits to be cradled. The angle between the red lines is also 59 degrees. This serves as a guide line to align with the leading edge of each half of the bit. A visual alignment is satisfactory.
Place a bit into the "V" groove on the back face of the block. Place the block into a vise so the end of the bit rests on top of and against the jaws and so that it just barely extends above the angled surface of the block. Turn the bit so the leading edge of the first half follows the guide line. Use a "C" clamp to hold the bit in place. Put some oil on a small handstone, like those used for sharpening fishhooks. Stroke along the angled surface of the block so the bit is being sharpened at the same time. When the stone is no longer cutting on the bit, turn it half of a turn and sharpen the other side. Inspect the bit with a magnifying glass, if necessary.
I bought one of these back in the 70s I tried to use it a few times but never got it figured out. I run into it from time to time in my workshop and every time I thought I should throw in the trash. In the morning I'll go treasure hunting in my little shop till I find it. Like 505 above says I can hand sharpen and they will drill again but not as good as I'd like. Thanks for the instructions!
This jig takes a little practice for the set up. Small changes make big differences. Since posting this I have also learned how to do a respectable job by hand. Thank you for looking. The jig does do a nic job once you get it set up well.
Great explanation. Since I've used your instructions I have sharpened a number of bits. I use my bench grinder quite a lot and have worn it down. Since the size of my wheel has decreased it appears my bits are not sharpening correctly. Is there any way to compensate for this? Thanks.
I am glad to know you have been able to use this. It seems one option would be to remount the sharpening guide so the bit touches the side of the grinding wheel. I know that is not recommended practice, but you can probably get a way with it for sharpening a few drills now and then. Another option would be to get a new abrasive wheel and use you old wheel for rough work. A couple of years ago I saw a video that made sharpening drills by hand easy and have been doing that ever since. Sometimes I need to sharpen one a couple of times to get it close enough to right. In summary, hold the drill at the right angle. Touch the cutting edge to the wheel. Rotate the drill 180 degrees without changing the angle. Touch the other cutting edge to the wheel. Make the angle a little steeper and touch the area behind the cutting edge to the wheel on both sides to reduce the shoulder on both sides. Finally, touch the cutting edge on both sides to the wheel and roll the drill to smooth the top of the drill from the cutting edge over the shoulder and off the back end. Check the web to see that it is centered and not too wide.
I just bought one of these Craftsman Drill Sharpening Jigs this wknd @ a flea market NOS in the old box for 8$. Should be a welcomed edition to my shop from what I hear from friends who have used them. I'll be referring back to this article just to reread it but it has original instructions. Great job friend thank you for sharing
I also own this drill sharpening tool (from SEARS ROEBUCK). The box identifires it as "CRAFTSMAN DRILL GRINDING ATTACHMENT, No. 9-6677." The instructions and illustrations for using the tool are printed on the inside of the box lid. I can scan to PDF and forward if you have any need for this information.
Thank you for the offer. I think that is the same sharoening guide I have. I think I have the instructions, yet. I have also finally been able to sharpen most of the bits I use by hand acceptably well.
I have a Stanley Yankee Push Drill, No 41Y (Discontinued...) Its drill bits rotate both clockwise (on push) and counter clockwise (on release). The flutes on the bits are straight, not twisted. Replacement bits are not available. How should these bits be sharpened?
My father did electrical work when I was in grade school. I was often his helper, and we used those. After I was married almost 50 years ago, I bought one of those. That was before I felt I could afford an electric drill.
I would suggest you sharpen them by hand, but very lightly. Point the front end of the bit at the wheel. Swing the back end of the bit to the left between 5 and 10 degrees and lower the bsck end of the bit about the same. Grind away no more than absilutely necessary. Rotate the bit 180 degrees and repeat. Try to keep the peak of the bit centered on the flutes as much as possible.
The skill is in the angle of the drill to the vertical. If you go all the way to horizontal you have no clearance. And remember the two main things. 1 keep the shortest part of the web at the tip vertical and 2. Don't turn the drill at all when grinding just change the vertical angle.
Most probably the angle on your bits is 59 degrees. That is pretty standard unless you have a very specialized bit. Although it is not generally recommended practice, you can sharpen bits on the side of the grinding wheel rather than on the circumference of the wheel. Can you temporarily mount your bench grinder on a riser of some kind?
Welcome to Instructsbles. I learned some minor things from my own use, particularly what is in step 11. Check the results you are getting as you go and make minor adjustments. Unfortunately, it is easy to grind away part of the tip against which the flute rests. I began with the directions included with the device and made common sense tweaks. From my side, the purpose of this Instructable was to record those so I did not need to reinvent the wheel after a long period of no use. Since posting this, I finally learned to sharpen drills by hand. It is not nearly as difficult as I thought. A couple of videos at YouTube were very helpful.Get in Touch with Mechanic