TheGB Series Glass Breakers are complete crushing systems. Rugged, unitized construction produces a machine that will withstand years of punishing use in recycling operations. The GB series requires minimal maintenance and has a reputation in the recycling industry as a crusher built to last.
TheGBS is the ideal hand-fed glass breaker for small recycling and business applications. Built tough for years of economical operation using the same time-proven design of thelarge Glass Breakers units. The GBS series requires minimal maintenance with a reputation in the recycling industry as a glass crusher built to last.
The Under the Counter Glass Bottle RecyclingSolutionBars, Restaurants, Cruise Ships, Clubs, Hotels and Casinos The GlassHopper was designed specifically for bars, restaurants, clubs, cruise ships and hotels. This empty glass bottle crusher is capable of crushing bottles up to 750ml into recycleable cullet and reducing waste volume by up to 80%.This bottle crusher is a compact, under the counterunit. Standard equipment includesanall stainless steel cabinet, top mounted bottle entry port with two sets of double baffles, sound deadening system and easy access cullet collection container.
The Perfect Solution for Low Volume Glass Bottle Recycling Bars, Restaurants and Laboratories Save time, money, labor and space with this new improved crusher. Machine is ideal for bars, restaurants, laboratories, cafeterias, municipalities and institutions. Users like the big savings and convenience in removal and handling costs. It is made for hard use, trouble free operation and dependability for years in service. Reduces volume by up to 80%.
The Higher Volume Can and Glass Crushing Solution Beverage Distributors, Recycling Operations, Restaurants, Hotels and Universities This multi-purpose,higher volume crusheris useful most anywhere glass containers and beverage cans are a disposal, storage or conversion concern. It is user friendly, easy to maintain and is highly portable with optional castors available. Built for trouble free and hard use with volume reductions of up to 80%.
DETAILSFREE QUOTE CAN CRUSHER AND GLASS CRUSHER MODEL 160 The Conveyor-Fed, High Volume Can and Glass Crusher Solution Beverage Distributors, Recycling Operations, Municipalities and Breweries This conveyor-fed crusher is designed for recovery/recycling use or any operation where glass bottles and aluminum/steel cans are a disposal, storage or conversion problem. Ideal for bottlers, breweries, communities or other public/private size reduction facilities. Fast, efficient operation crushes either bottles or cans without change in machine setup. Built for hard use and trouble free operation with minimal maintenance or up-keep.
High Volume Can and Glass Crusher Ideal for Can Manufacturers, Recycling Centers, Bottlers and Breweries This crusher isuser friendly, easy to maintain and requires no change in machine setup to crush cans or glass. Built for hard use and trouble free operation with minimal maintenance or upkeep.Overload compression springs prevent jamming. 5 HP.
High Volume Can and Glass Crusher Ideal for Can Manufacturers, Recycling Centers, Bottlers and Breweries A larger and more powerful version than the Model 250 with greater throughput. This crusher isuser friendly, easy to maintain and requires no change in machine setup to crush cans or glass. Built for hard use and trouble free operation with minimal maintenance or upkeep.Overload compression springs prevent jamming. 10HP.
The Medium to High Volume Glass Crushing Solution Beverage Distributors, Recycling Operations, Cruise Ships, Restaurants, Hotels &Universities Designed for stand alone use or in conjunction with a conveyor andcan be mounted below chutes in MRF applications. A small, compact unit that will hold up to most anything you can throw at it. Volume reductions up to 80%.
The High Volume, Conveyor FedGlass Crushing Solution Bottling Operations, Beverage Distributors, Recycling Operations and Municipalities A high volume glass crusher designed for long life and trouble free operation. This model is capable of handling full or empty bottles. Conveyor Fed design with side flanges on belt and cover rails to contain material. This feature has been proven to greatly extend the life of the belt, eliminating some costly routine maintenance found on other crushers. Volume reductions up to 80%.
The ECO-WOLF recycling system consists of two major components. The ECO-Grinder, which is robustly constructed and specifically designed to withstand the abrasive nature of the material while maintaining the integrity of the glass or natural fibers. This allows the fibers to be reincorporated back into new products. FRP Scrap Sizes Other Materialswe can grind More Glass Bottles ECO-Dispensing Macerator The second part of the process is the ECO-Dispensing Macerator. This component is a pneumatic powered device that meters and transports the material processed by the ECO-Grinder to the pre-existing spray-up equipment where it is injected into the resin spray upon operator demand. We supply the adapter that reincorporates the scrap without replacing most spray systems.
With events almost every week at both its tasting room in Ashland and the vineyard itself, president Mike Murman estimates around 1,000 bottles of wine can be consumed in a weekend. Sometimes staff members- and the dumpsters outside- can't keep up.
A Revolutionary Tool for Fusers and Flameworkers Turn scrap glass and rods into custom frit without any fuss! Simply place compatible glass into the Aanraku Fit Piston, insert the upper plunger into the tube and plunge. You are in complete control - create as much or as little frit as you want, in any size you want. With its rugged design, this frit maker is designed for a long life and heavy use. Imagine the possibilities. Delphi artists love how quickly you can make a lot of frit. Use with Frit Sifters #63999 and sift your frit into different sizes ranging from powder to coarse. Large 6" x 6" x 12" capacity weighs just 7 pounds. Includes instructions and a rare earth magnet to ensure good results. Delphi Tip: Keep your Frit Piston working like new by keeping the interior dry. If you notice any rust, lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper, then use the included magnet to remove any metal shards and fragments. Delphi Customer Tip: "Here's a tip for using the magnet: Never drag it directly through the glass--you'll be forever trying to get the filings cleaned off. Instead, drop it into the corner of an envelope, e.g., and drag that through. Then just hold it over your disposal container, pull out the magnet and the filings fall right off. And the white background of the envelope makes it easy to see when you've finally gotten them all." - Phoebe Spore, Online Product Review
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In the wood and forest products industry, there is no one-size-fits-all wood grinding machine. This is an industry that requires machines with a wide variety of features: whether they need to be ideal for large scrap or small scrap, solid or composites, top feed or horizontal. Williams Patent Crusher designs and manufactures industry-leading machines that meet a vast number of industrial wood grinder and chipper requirements.
Whether your application involves fuel, mulch or compost preparation, or you simply just need to turn scrap into sawdust, our industrial wood grinders and commercial wood chippers are the solution. Browse our catalog below to learn which one is right for your application.
If you are making large quantities of frit, you may want to consider building a mechanical frit grinder from a garbage disposal and a galvanized garbage can. This set up can process a vast amount of scrap glass into frit rapidly, but there are some pros and cons, and a few tips to make your frit grinding more successful.
Im using a heavy duty extension cord for the wiring. It is grounded to prevent shocks. If you are not electrically inclined (Im not either) then its a good idea to have an electrician help you with this part.
The broken glass is poured into the top of the disposal, gets whirled and ground by the blades inside and shoots out the hole in the side of the disposal into the galvanized garbage can. Heres where the glass comes out:
No one wants rust in their frit, so, what to do? Well, you can easily use the same thing that caused the rust in the first place to clean it off. Run some waste glass through the machine, it will quickly scour the rust away. Then, simply discard the rusty frit, and you are ready to go.
There is a vacuum hose that come off of the lid of Chewy, then into the vacuum port of the shop vac (Im using a Bucket Head Vac). A HEPA filter in the shop vac is an excellent idea. There is a second hose coming off the exhaust port of the shop vac and into a bucket of water. The exhaust from the vacuum bubbles up through the water, catching a lot of dust. I also float a filter made from an evaporative cooler pad on top of the water so the bubbles dont just release their dust back into the air. Heres the water bucket with the lid off.
You can see its quite mucky. Since this is the last stop for the dust, it doesnt really matter. Right now its frozen solid, so I cant make a video for you, maybe in a few months! When I get an accumulation of dust in the bucket, I let the muck settle, then pour off the clear water, package the muck up in a sealed bag and discard. Even with the dust trap, you must wear a respirator.
Sunco Machinery supply one new design of small glass crusher which is suitable for home use and minor recycling. This small glass crusher can crush the waste glass into less than 5mm small glass pieces. After being crushed by the smallglass crusher machine, we can get less than 5mm small glass pieces. Working principle of small glass crusher : In the crushing chamber of the small glass crusher, there are hammers which are installed on the center shaft. The motor make the center shaft rotate in high speed. Thus, the hammers on the center shaft also rotates in high speed. The waste glass goes into the crushing chamber through the feed inlet, and it is crushed by the high speed hammers into small pieces. On the bottom of the small glass crusher, there is half round sieve, and on the sieve there are many holes. Only the small glass pieces can go through the sieve, the big size glass pieces will be crushed again by the hammers. For information of the small glass crusher, please contact us: [email protected]
Sunco Machinery supply one new design of small glass crusher which is suitable for home use and minor recycling. This small glass crusher can crush the waste glass into less than 5mm small glass pieces.
In the crushing chamber of the small glass crusher, there are hammers which are installed on the center shaft. The motor make the center shaft rotate in high speed. Thus, the hammers on the center shaft also rotates in high speed.
On the bottom of the small glass crusher, there is half round sieve, and on the sieve there are many holes. Only the small glass pieces can go through the sieve, the big size glass pieces will be crushed again by the hammers.
Everyone in the DIY community and especially those who work with 3D printers, have one issue - plastic junk. It can be failed prints, project scrap leftovers, or maybe you are just looking for a way to shred and recycle your plastic at home.
There are many more links on youtube if you want to build a beast. Most of my plastic waste comes from failed prints and leftover strands of filament which I want to recycle into fresh filament using Filabot.
Time to hack a paper shredder to grind up my waste plastic. From the time the shredder arrived in the mail to putting together this instructable, the entire project has taken me 48 hours. If you follow all the instructions to the T, this is what you should be capable of grinding in about 24 hours-
STRIP CUT PAPER SHREDDERS WILL NOT WORK for this project (3 types of shredders). I already tried to bust open mine and replace the inner wheels with grooved washers and the like but its just not worth the effort.
We will be working with a CROSS CUT SHREDDER. If you have one already and don't mind busting it open, this instructable should work for you. If not, here is the only real expense involved in the project:
When I ordered mine new, it was <$50. There may be other economical options and I'm not Jeff Bezos, so go for it. Bear in mind, to chew and grind up plastic, we will need a pretty powerful motor and a gear drive train thats mostly metal or as little plastic as possible. This shredder seemed to have both so it worked for me.
Also, the CD shredding capability is completely useless for this project, so if you can find a powerful, economical/free one without it, thats perfect. We will be getting rid of the CD shredder completely.
First we need to test the shredder. Ignore this step if you are using the same shredder. The opening is too small for any part to fit through, so flip it over and run it in reverse. This step came in handy to realize that if the bottom grooved carriage allows for parts to go through, it might be worth keeping intact (which is a nightmare later during hacking). If it barely grinds even the smallest of parts, make note that it is expendable and move on.
For lack of a better term, let's call this "hack". The IR sensors and microswitch under the flap are vestigial and can be harvested for use in other projects. The IR sensor and receiver can be directly cut off the board. The flap microswitch can be cut off and the wire spliced with the alignment microswitch. Look at pictures. Test your circuit.
This part gets a bit tricky. The objective is to get rid of the top plastic cover over the rotors. Go though the dismantling process methodically and avoid using unnecessary brute force. This is the longest and most tedious part of the build and I apologize for the lack of pictures. But if you are at this stage with grease smeared hands, you will understand why.
You will end up unscrewing the end cover, the screws holding the plastic covers together and the screws holding the steel rods in place. I had to unscrew 3 of the 4 steel rods in order to get the covers off.
Once the two plastic covers are off, you have a choice to get rid of both or just the top. I suggest keeping the bottom to add rigidity and since it barely interfered with reverse grinding(Step 1), why not? The pictures make it seem like you should take both off. I changed my mind later and decided to dismantle again to add the bottom plastic cover. So you can skip that unnecessary step.
One piece of advice, don't work on a glass table like I did. This assembly is pretty heavy and the with the number of times it dropped on my table top during dismantling (the copious amounts of grease didn't help), its a miracle it didn't shatter.
For this part, I used my handy jigsaw with the thinnest blade I could find. Remember to cut off the plastic flap on the bottom back edge. Use the pictures as a reference. Make sure your grinding rotors are completely exposed. Test fit once done.
Get creative with your hoppers. I was originally going to print one but something of this size would take hours to design and print. I decided to go with an inverted conical hopper, to minimize the amount of plastic being spit out. I had a sheet of 3mm polypropylene lying around so I used it to cut the shapes.
Assemble like in the pictures and test fit for snugness. Blue painter's tape is what I had handy (thank you ABS printing). Make sure that both the long edges go around the steel rods and touch the lower plastic cover which we added back. Essentially make sure that the plastic bits flying around during operation don't make their way out of the grind chamber to the motor, gears and electronics.
Time to start putting things back together. Screw in the electronics and clean up the wiring like the pictures. Close up, put in the 6 original screws and mount on bin. Load the hopper. I had an extra piece of PP which I decided to use as a lid. We are almost done.
There is one and only one golden rule to this operation. Short slow pulses. If it sounds like the motor is being strained; stop and pulse in reverse once, flip back to forward and start pulsing again. I will eventually work on a hack to reduce motor speed drastically in order to eliminate pulsing all together. But for now, monitored pulsing has its advantages.
1st Grind Quality- The grind varies from dust to long strips and ribbons. This is characteristic of 3D printed parts as entire layers get delaminated. Keep in mind I have been running this continuously and ground up about 1kg of black ABS parts. The only breaks have been when the motor overheats.
2nd Grind Quality- Drastic improvement in consistency but some big chunks still remain. Easy to sort out by hand. Heat is starting to become a huge issue. Friction = heat. Not only does the motor overheat, the real big issue I am noticing is that the rotors have heated up. Also, the undercarriage has taken a bit of a beating, some of the rotor teeth are misaligned. Now the heat issue while not a big deal for plastics like ABS(high glass transition temp), might be a huge issue for PLA(low g-t). Cooling the motor is easy, its the rotors that have me concerned.
3rd Grind Quality- Ground the bigger pieces twice and smaller pieces once. Product is relatively consistent. At least to the point that the filabot extruder screw will spit out bigger chunks. Check out the pictures.
Total product 840gms. Assuming we began with 1kg, thats a yield of 0.84. I'm looking around and all the spillage barely amounts to 100gms. There is definitely a lot of debris in the shell. Most of the real damage seems limited to the plastic undercarriage shell that we left in place. Considering that most of the plastic on this machine is ABS and we ground up ABS, contamination isn't an issue.
1) Physical: The huge downside of this hack is that we are using a single set of rotors which imposes massive strain on the drive train. Also, the grinds need to be reground a couple of times to ensure semi-uniform consistency.
2) Heat is a monster. An immediate upgrade is a computer fan for the motor. Will post more later. The rotors need a bit more thought. Liquid cooling poses the risk of leaks. Fans will just generate dust and require filters which is a perpetual consumable and fire hazard. This is the plate and fin cooling problem from transport phenomena, but reversed.
Don't grind up huge batches at a go but rather grind as you go along and store for later use. My honest opinion is if you intend to grind about 1kg batches at a go, perhaps you need 2 - 3 of these machines running simultaneously. For an outlay of $150 for 3 machines producing 1kg a day and a profit margin of $5 per kg of product, the machines pay themselves off in 30 days. If you intend to go bigger, then you are in the recycling business and the $1000< beast is for you.
1) A small 3-stage plastic grinder comprising of 2 rotor top stage of about double the diameter of this shredder, 4 rotor 2nd stage like the one we are using, 8 rotor 3rd stage of half the diameter. In fact that gear ratio would be a great starting point with load sensitive speed control speed control rather than the "clicky" end-stop switch. There are some coffee grinders that use this concept.
Essentially we need a device transformation like from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:902826 to http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEJE-1000mW-DIY-Laser-USB-.... Having built the first one, I decided to buy the second one.
If you are reading this, I'm assuming you either liked / thought about / want / intend to build or intend to contribute 'USEFULLY' to this idea. I will be posting upgrades and observations as I go along. If you have any suggestions / feedback / comments / build schematics / upgrades / mods or anything 'USEFUL' to contribute please message me. Use youtube comments as a benchmark for 'USEFULNESS".
In the process of making one of my own, I found a small 'cheat' of sorts. Because of how I cut the blade-guides (I took a dremel cutoff disk and dropped it between the blades, slicing the plastic spacer in half) I was able to keep part of the internal shield. As I am not shredding anything more than 15mm thick, I chose to only cut one side, so it forces the plastic into the other side, and I have had very little scatter into the housing even without a hopper guard.I find that running it at a 15% duty cycle is good enough for it to stay cool on the blades.
I'm quite interested in this project. Do you think a 2.2HP woodchipper could be used as the initial rotor assembly? I found one on Amazon for about $150, and I've heard of them being used to shred plastic. Issue with that is that the total cost comes to $200again, not inexpensive, particularly when coupled with a Recyclebot.
There are older shredders that can eat 3-ring binders! But, paper shredders are designed to shred paper. Maybe a "blender" could shred your plastics small enough to - then use a crosscut shredder. Your savings in; time, money, and electrical usage, will be reduced considerably. OR 3-4 shredders of varyin shred size & power, and reduce your plastic in "stages" vs burning up shredders.
Sorry, this project has been put on the backburner for a while but I will be posting big updates sometime in December. Just a quick update - I have successfully shredded most household plastics and produced fresh filament with quite decent print quality. PLA has been the only plastic with some issues because of its hardness. What really piques my curiosity is a powder extruder which eliminates the filament spool altogether. I have hated the filament and spool concept since my first 3D print over 5 years ago. Hopefully the DIY community starts work in earnest on a hybrid of the filament extruder and print hotend using ptfe tubing in bowden configuration to lighten the x-carriage and eliminate the ridiculous filament and spool.
Thanks for this instructable! I had no idea cross-cut shredders existed until I came across this instructable. I'very purchased a shredder and will work on transforming it in the next couple of weeks.great instructable!
Great plastics shredder! I've been doing some research into recycling plastics into 3D printer filament, but I haven't found a grinder that works for me. Could you do me a favor? If you could please run a clear, recyclable water bottle made of PET (#1 recycling symbol) and record it? I'd love to see the results, because this is probably better than freezing the plastics in Liquid Nitrogen :)
I have stripped the machine and looking into some immediate performance upgrades. The plan right after is to grind kitchen plastics like PP(tupperware, milk and juice jugs), PET(soda and water bottles) and others like pe, ldpe, hdpe. I have tried the liquid nitrogen technique and its a lot of fun but definitely not a smart idea at home. But its just so much fun. All the home plastics will definitely need to be washed, dried and cut into smaller chunks first. Smaller crushable pet bottles should be simple to grind. I'll post some updated videos shortly
Pulverizes Glass into Sand and Gravel Recycling Centers, Municipalities and Bottlers The GP-1000 Glass Pulverizer was developed as an economical solution for low to medium volume glass bottle recyclers. Internal trommel screen separates glass into two usable sizes: -1/8 and -3/8 pulverized glass. This glass pulverizer is ideal for recycling centers, municipalities, bottlers or any other user requiring -1/8 pulverized glass and -3/8 pulverized glass. Processes up to 1000 lbs per hour.
The GP-1500C Glass Pulverizer uses the same proprietary crushing mechanism as the GP-1000 but incorporates a 10 wide feed conveyor and hopper to increase the throughput.The GP-1500C is an economical solution for low to medium volume glass bottle recyclers.Internal trommel screen separates glass into two usable sizes: -1/8 and -3/8 pulverized glass. This glass pulverizer is ideal for recycling centers, municipalities, bottlers or any other user requiring -1/8 pulverized glass and -3/8 pulverized glass.Processes up to 1500 lbs per hour.
DETAILSFREE QUOTE LEARN HOW MUNICIPALITIES ARE USING THE GLASS PULVERIZER MODELS As recycling and landfill tipping fees increase, one Tennessee city has turned to recycling glass in-house to save money while still staying green. The cost of recycling glass via private firms and businesses has gone up, leading some cities to forgo recycling glass in favor of dumping it in landfills, which has become cheaper than recycling. Zach Wilkinson, director of public works for the city of Gallatin, said his city was one of many municipalities facing cost issues when it comes to glass recycling. I think a lot of communities are facing a similar issue with glass, Wilkinson said. The demand for it in the market has disappeared over the last several years. It costs more to send it off to be recycled than to just landfill it, which was the situation we were in. It was really obvious to me that it wasnt cost effective to haul the glass and then pay a higher tipping fee to have it recycled. Read More
As recycling and landfill tipping fees increase, one Tennessee city has turned to recycling glass in-house to save money while still staying green. The cost of recycling glass via private firms and businesses has gone up, leading some cities to forgo recycling glass in favor of dumping it in landfills, which has become cheaper than recycling. Zach Wilkinson, director of public works for the city of Gallatin, said his city was one of many municipalities facing cost issues when it comes to glass recycling.
I think a lot of communities are facing a similar issue with glass, Wilkinson said. The demand for it in the market has disappeared over the last several years. It costs more to send it off to be recycled than to just landfill it, which was the situation we were in. It was really obvious to me that it wasnt cost effective to haul the glass and then pay a higher tipping fee to have it recycled.
Two thirds of the worlds beaches are retreating as people across the world use non-renewable beach sand for construction, roading and other uses, Simon Smith, brand PR and digital manager for DB Breweries, told Digital Trends. We had some [conversations] over beers, and came up with an idea to crush glass bottles into a sand substitute that can be used in things such as construction, roading, even golf bunkers; meaning that we can keep our beautiful beach sand where it belongs: on our beaches.
New Zealand, Smith said, has a pretty impressive recycling rate, although theres always room to do more. To that end, DB Breweries has built several machines able to take empty bottles and turn them into substitute sand. All a drinker needs to do is deposit his or her bottle in the machine, which then uses miniature steel hammers to crush it into 200 grams of sand in only five seconds after extracting the plastic labels with a vacuum system.
Our sand will be processed through a screener which sorts it into a fine grades between 1.1 0.4mm particle sizes, he continued. Over the next few months, well be creating up to 100 tons of sand, which is the equivalent of 500,000 DB Export Bottles.The resulting sand substitute will then be given to our construction and retail partners to use in place of beach sand.
The ultimate goal is to provide a way of prompting people to recycle by giving them an image of what exactly it means to do so, rather than leaving it as an abstraction. Our ambition for the campaign is for people to have something tangible to think about, such as the love of our beautiful beaches, as a reminder to recycle, he said.
Upgrade your lifestyleDigital Trends helps readers keep tabs on the fast-paced world of tech with all the latest news, fun product reviews, insightful editorials, and one-of-a-kind sneak peeks.Digital Trends may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site.
G-Max Beside-the-press GranulatorsSpecifically designed for closed loop recycling of sprues/runners discharged from injection molding machines of up to 400 tons clamping force. G-Max granulators combine energy saving, a compact footprint and a unique damped cutting chamber for significant noise reduction, ensuring a quiet and efficient operation.
S-Max Series of Beside-the-press GranulatorsThe economic choice with a compact design. Low speed (27 rpm @ 50 Hz) screenless technology for the most efficient and cost-effective grinding of engineered resins as well as styrenics, acrylics, and glass-fiber-reinforced materials.
JUNIOR DOUBLE Series of Screenless Granulatorsfor Central Scrap Reclamation: JUNIOR DOUBLE 4, 6, and 8Equipped with two rotors in the cutting chamber for large sprues and parts, the JUNIOR DOUBLE is typically used offline, located away from the process. Material is fed into the granulator by a conveyor belt or by dumping the content of a box directly into the feed hopper of the granulator.
MINOR 2A and MAS 2AThe scrap is gravity-fed directly from the processing machine, requiring no conveying or manual handling. Multi-position swivel outlet pipes make an easier connection to the flexible hose of the hopper loader. The regrind collection bins are made of stainless steel. The two model provide a pre-cutting knife on the auger tube pre-empting wrap-arounds and screw jams.
We have the expertise to provide you with all the conveyor, metal detection, and magnetic separation equipment to layout your shredding system. Whether you are re-grinding in-house scrap product or designing a complete recycling facility, we have feeder conveyors and discharge conveyors to handle your material on both ends of the shredding process.
1. Protect your shredder by inspecting all of your product and scrap before it is fed into the shredder. That not only protects your shredder from being damaged but also separates out the metal contaminant before it is shredded into smaller pieces. Product purification is maximized.
2. Maximize product purity upon shredding discharge, before feeding material to a Granulator or Extruder. This not only protects your Granulator but also separates out the metal contaminant before using or selling the regrind.
We can help you select and combine the proper equipment to optimize the purification of your product, maximize your equipment protection and protect your investment from serious damage and repairs. Each of the following units can be custom painted to match your shredder.
Handles between 8,000 to 20,000 pounds of product per hour. Constructed of 12 to 15 channel iron. 4-ply belts with heavy duty cleats. UHMW skirting to protect belt edges. Uses 10 to 12 pulleys with large drives. Optional metal detectors as large as needed for whole bale inspection.
Used for shredding and grinding up plastic purgings to scrap bumpers, stringers, carpet, wood pellets, plastic bottles, tires or even glass bottles or wood pallets. Handles between 1,000 to 10,000 pounds per hour. Formed steel frame construction. Uses 6 to 10 pulleys. Multiple belt options with standard cleats or cleat topped belts. UHMW, formed metal or rubber skirting. Optional metal detectors with flip gate reject of contaminant. Optional infeed hoppers, magnetic pulleys and mobile bases.
For in-house use next to the machine grinders. For low volume applications that are usually hand fed. Constructed of a fabricated steel frame, smaller drives, and 3 to 6 pulleys with an inexpensive cleated or ruff-topped belts. Optional over the belt plate magnet or under the belt meTRON S 05 metal detector.
Designed for flow rate of 8,000 to 20,000 pounds of product per hour. Constructed of formed steel or channel iron frames. Built for the most rugged applications. Heavy cross-rigid cleated or cleat top belt. UHMW skirting or formed metal. Flared in-feed hoppers to match up to Shredder discharge openings. Uses 10 to 12 pulleys with large drives. Optional accessories include magnetic crossbelt separator, magnetic head pulley or meTRON D 05 metal detector with flip gate rejects of contaminant.
Designed for flow rates of 2,000 to 10,000 pounds per hour. Formed steel frame construction. Uses 6 to 10 diameter pulleys with optional magnetic pulley. Heavy cleated cross-rigid flex wall belts. Flared in-feed hoppers to match shredder discharge openings. Optional under the belt or loop style metal detectors. Optional flip gate of contaminant, and mobile bases. Can be used as direct transfer of material from shredder to grinder.
Magnetic Crossbelts Ceramic and Rare Earth Magnetic Head Pulleys Rare Earth Plate Magnets mounted above the belts Metal Detectors with and without automatic contaminate reject flip gates Sacker stations for shredded and ground material
Please call 1.800.835.2526 or 316.284.2020 and ask for extension #142 or #146 to discuss your needs with an Inside Sales Design Associate or to get an Application Engineer to visit your facility. We can also email you a RFQ form that you can quickly fill out to get a quotae.
I was getting tired of cutting up failed parts and my research materials by hand. So I decided I wanted a part grinder to compliment my Filastruder. There are a few options for grinding up failed printed parts for turning them back into filament. I didn't want to spend $500+ dollars and also wanted something that was more effective than the other low cost DIY solutions I've seen. I don't have access to a machine shop anymore so I had to make something in my garage with somewhat basic hand tools. The design is based around this tooling restriction. It is smaller than I would have liked and took about 40hours to build.
The design relies on the plates for the spacing of the cutting faces (which are the most important part). The other faces are not as critical, so cutting using templates is accurate enough. The design is intended to be expandable in the future to grind up larger parts, and hopefully switch to a dual blade design.
The manufacturing technique I used is incredibly labor intensive and fairly time consuming. I feel most people who are capable of this kind of work will already own some of the tools I would've preferred to use. But for those of you who are poor and hate themselves just like me I'll go through the steps I took to build this grinder.
Disclaimer: If you choose to build this you will soon understand I am not joking about hating yourself. You will be sweating and bleeding a lot during the massive amount of time you will be working on this. Hand sawing and filing is a very slow and very labor intensive process. You need to be capable of high intensity work for hours at a time. If your not, you will be a lot stronger by the end of this project or you will give up. Don't start this without assessing your own physical and time limitations.
I designed this grinder in Inventor. It is designed to cut similar to scissors with a progressively forward closing cutting faces. The end of the scissor faces has an acute angle to stop material from sliding out and not getting cut. It only has one set of moving blades for simpler manufacturing and construction. The design assumes the material always has the same thickness. So the only features that needs to be added are in a single plane. All the plates are held together with more bolts than are necessary to increase stiffness.
I would've preferred to have had a few more tools that would have removed most of the labor from this project. These are a band saw and a belt sander. This project would be relatively easy with both of these.
Now test layouts of the templates to decide which will work best to minimize cutting and/or waste material. Once you have decided how to lay them out clean the surface using a mild solvent such as alcohol. The surface needs to be cleaned thoroughly or the glue won't stick. Completely cover the back of the templates (including the edges) in glue to ensure it does not move during later operations. Place the template onto the clean steel surface and lightly press them flat. DO NOT press or slide the paper to hard or you will introduce dimensional inaccuracies.
After the glue has dried the parts are cut out with the hacksaw. The goal for cutting is to remove as much material as possible to minimize the amount of filing needed to finish each part. Leaving 1-2mm around the perimeter was the goal for me before I began filing. It takes some practice and a lot of patience to cut close but not too close to the final dimensions. The sawing can also be quite tiring so take a lot of breaks and switch to filing for some time to rest your arm.
Once you have cut in an edge filing is done in two steps. First use the more aggressive half round bastard file to remove material quickly. Then use the flat bastard file to flatten and improve the surface consistency. This will also take some practice to do quickly and accurately. The most important thing to do while filing is maintain the flatness of the surface you are filing. If you file of the edges in an attempt to move faster it is easy to remove too much material and to get the face perpendicular to the plate face again.
I have a small drill press in my garage, but this step can also be done with a hand drill. I chose to use my drill press because I didn't want to wait for batteries to charge constantly. It still chatters a lot and the finish and accuracy was similar to that of a hand drill.
To make drilling easier use cutting fluid. A heavy engine oil works well for this. I didn't have a heavy weight and just settled for 5W-30. Use a cheap paint brush and a tin can to avoid making a mess.
After all the features have been added to a part, the template can be removed. This was done by grinding it off using a wire wheel. Do not remove the template from the cutting blades yet, they need to have key ways added.
The keyway in the shaft is made using a rotary tool and a small abrasive wheel. Slowly work the slot down and check its dimensions against the key you already cut. I rounded off the corners of the key that are in the shaft to make fitting easier.
The keyways on the blades are made by filing out the bulk of the material using a more aggressive triangular file. Then finishing them up with some needle files. Test fitting along the way until it fits perfectly over the key. Each blade needs to be at a different angle, so make sure to put the keyways at 90 degrees to eachother.
To make the hex drive on the end of the shaft you need to add flats that are 7/16" apart and 120 degrees separated. I don't have a special trick for this. File one flat. Move to the other side and file a flat parallel to the first. Measure the distance between the flats and remove material evenly from each side. Now file the other ones. Use a deep socket to determine how close you are. You should be able to see if you are parallel to the flats in the socket. Keep filing the parts the socket runs into until it fits.
Now that the parts are all cut to shape they can be final fitted together. This is not an exact manufacturing process and the bolt holes are only drilled to standard fit, so it is likely that there are going to be holes that don't align properly. To compensate for this some of the misaligned holes are drilled out to the next largest size.
I don't have any pictures of how to put the blades and shaft in. It isn't too difficult though. I did it by leaving the 3/8" bolts in and spinning the plates out of the way. The sliding in the shaft into place, followed by the blades and spacers. Spin the outer plates back in and mesh them with the blades. (I need to add some pictures of this, I'm just happy with it being assembled right now)
After some testing the grinder showed it is capable of cutting up some printed parts. I able to cut fairly thick (~1/4") solid printed PLA walls. I didn't test anything but PLA because I don't have anything else. But it should cut most of the common printed plastics. It may have trouble with polycarbonate.
The downside to this design is the maximum part size that it can bite into is small. The blades separate to about a 0.5" square opening. Which only allows very small parts or some pre-cutting to get the blades to bite. This was sort of intentional because the Filastruder works much better with small pellets. And to get smaller pellets the opening size was reduced. If I were to redesign it I would make the blades longer to allow larger pieces to be cut without the need to pre-cut.
Now I need to figure out the best way to mount it so something. I didn't have a plan for mounting when I started this, but it shouldn't be too difficult to add more holes for a good mounting solution.
While grinding PETE some of it became wedged in a few places and required the grinder to be disassembled. One of the blades spins flat against the outer wall and plastic wedged into the gap. It could get into this gap because I couldn't tighten the plates as much as was needed. This was caused by the plates all being the same thickness and some of them collided when tightened. I came up with two things to fix this problem:
Another problem that became apparent after testing with the flat PETE was the material getting hung up on stationary blades. This explains why almost all commercial material grinders use counter-rotating blades. I might iterate on this design to improve the grinder's ability to handle strange shaped and larger parts. For now it fulfills my needs of making small parts into small enough bits for a Filastruder.
Hi, I am building a very similar grinder based upon A design by Dave Hakkens of Precious Plastic. If you haven't heard of it yet I suggest you check out his website as there is a brilliant forum where there are many others also doing the same. I am presently looking at motors to drive the shredder, so would be very interested in what you eventually decide upon. I would also be interested if you could give us any feed back on how you get on with the extruder as this seems to be one of the areas where results can vary greatly.
The process that makes the glass on Iphones makes it very hard and fairly tough. It might crack and explode, but it will probably just deform the steel in the grinder. Its only 1018 mild steel, and even hardened steels would have a had time with phone glass. If it were just the screen without the glass it might work. But again I wouldn't recommend it.
Dang. I get a lot of iphone and ipad screens and glass from repairs and need to shred them. Usually I can crush an ipad screen with my hands or use a pair of aviation shears for the plastic backed ones. I might still make one and see if it works anyway.
That's a good start so when you decide to go dual blades use two matching gears placed tooth to valley as one turns left the other turns right and you have your counter turning blades and a better gripping power !! It has been suggested grinding up soda bottles to make the filling but then you will need a way to melt and extrude the plastic !! Good luck
While the following question may appear off-topic, it isn't so far off that I think it is out of place.Can "milk carton" plastic be used for filament material in a 3-D printer?I have long wanted to use plastic milk cartons for 'something else' AND simply "chew them up" so they don't occupy so much space. If that plastic could be used for 3-D printer filament, I would get serious about making something like this device to chew up milk cartons.
HDPE is an ultra low surface energy polymer. It only has about 50% more surface energy than PTFE (teflon). So its not sticky at all, including with itself. The only way that HDPE bonds to itself is when it is completely melted, it has not cold-welding ability. So it does not work as an FDM plastic. It also doesn't really have a glass transition temperature, or its really close to the melting temperature. Which means you can hold it above Tg to improve interlayer adhesion because it is incredibly close to the melting point and you might melt the part.
I worked around another research group that focused on printing HDPE, and they had very limited success. The prints would usually fail after 3-4 layers from either falling off the print bed, or just not sticking the previous layers. They never had a successful print in the years they worked on it.
I think modifying the surface energy by adding another polymer would help. But I'm not familiar with what polymer blend well or what can be done to increase surface energy. Doing this would kind of defeat the purpose of having a readily available recyclable material though.
I tried to find some square center bearings that were large and mounted in a flange, but came up short. It would have also added a lot of work when making the holes in the blades. So I stuck with a circular shaft and dealt with a key and making a hex drive.
I can see what you mean in your intro, when you cautioned would-be makers about the stamina needed to complete this project... I admire the super human patience your grinder required! I've been thinking of something like this, a bit bigger, for food scraps to feed to worms or compost piles. Either to be attached to a mixer or with a hand crank, but instead of steel, those blades would be made out of glass or ceramic which could just be thrown in the dishwasher every so often... However I think that project will have to remain a dream for the foreseeable future.
Using fresh, quality spices is one of the easiest ways to transform a good-enough dish into something exquisite. But how can you be sure that the spices you add will deliver the ultimate flavor punch?
Humans have been using mortars and pestles to pulverize herbs and whole spices for thousands of years and some retailers, like San Franciscos Spicely Boutique, still recommend this ancient approach. Crushing releases a fuller range of essential oils and flavors compared to the chopping motion of an electric grinder, and with no nooks and crannies to trap food particles, mortars and pestles are relatively easy to clean.
Another low-tech option for tackling larger whole spices like nutmeg and cinnamon stick is a Microplane grater. Microplane sells attachments that allow you to grind smaller, pebble-sized items by hand. All Microplane parts can be tossed in the dishwasher, and then tossed in a drawer, making storage in a small and/or overcrowded kitchen no big deal.
For faster grinding, or for processing larger quantities of spices, nothing beats a dedicated coffee grinder, according to Ben Walters, owner of North Market Spices in Columbus, Ohio. If youre drawn to the old-school charm of a manual grinder, Walters suggests choosing a model with an adjustable head to produce a variety of textures.
The Silk Road Spice Merchant in Calgary, Canada, sells just one model on its website: the KRUPS Coffee and Spice Grinder ($18 at Amazon), a compact, affordable model that boasts a powerful motor so that the grinder doesnt overheat and damage your spices. The KRUPS can be wiped clean, and processing some dry rice or bread chunks will remove any residual odors.
At World Spice Merchants, Amanda Bevill and her team swear by the KitchenAid Spice Grinder, a slightly larger unit that comes with two removable grinder cups for easy cleanup and insurance against cross-contamination. This is the grinder to buy if you want just one appliance to handle your coffee and spice needs, provided you can afford to spend just a little bit more. Ben Walters at North Market Spices concurs, naming the KitchenAid Grinder as one of the best on the market.
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Glass casting is a process where you place glass in a mold to create a specific glass sculpture or design. The mold must be placed in a kiln to fuse the glass together and form your desired item. Casting glass is difficult and requires some specialist machinery. Make sure you take the proper safety precautions when you're working with a kiln. Wear kiln gloves and dark, protective glasses.Get in Touch with Mechanic