solar water heaters with vacuum tubes

solar water heaters with vacuum tubes

Our Active Solar Water Heaters are OG-100 SRCC certified and eligible for the Federal government tax credit. The credit applies to the total cost of the system as long as the collector used is OG-100 SRCC certified.. The credit remains at 30% through 2019. In 2020 it will be 26%, 2021 will be 22% and 2022+ will be a 10%.

hand pumps

hand pumps

The unique thing about the Simple pump is that it reduces the pumping effort by half as compared to the other deep well hand pumps. Also, it delivers water from static water level as deep as 300 feet while others are just limited to 200 feet.

An ordinary shallow well hand pumps lift the water from well with the help of priming and suction. But, Simple Pump consists of a mechanical connection from pump hand lever to a cylinder which consists of a piston at the bottom of the drop pipe.

With each stroke of handle the cylinder full of water lifts up towards the head of the pump. At the bottom of the cylinder a heavy duty stainless steel check valve maintains the water level in the drop pipe. This results in quick deliverance of water just after few strokes of handle next time.

Handpump wellsystems operate manually or, optionally, from a solar panel direct during daylight hours with the benefit of our built-in electronic controls that serve the same all day pumping benefit of stand-alone linear current boosters. We can also design a battery-powered system that will allow you to pump water any time of the day or night. Ready for a pump quote?Please contact us for assistanceor call us.

There are several factors that affect the functionality of the deep well hand pumps like the total weight of water & components of pump used to bring water to the surface. Also we have to keep in mind about the range of motion limitation, stamina and strength of typical human pumpers.

On the other hand, Simple Pump has been designed to overcome the limitation of deep well pumps. The 1 inch diameter cylinder can lift modest volume of water to surface with less effort as compared to thedeep well hand pump. The strong encapsulated fiberglass sucker rods are light weight. The aluminum lever arms are lighter than steel. When the water column in the pipe is full, the upstroke of the handle is completely weightless.

The proven sucker rod method is used to operate the Simple Pump. It consists of a lever arm which activates a rod attached to the cylinder made up of stainless steel at bottom of drop pipe. The small size of pipe and pump cylinder make them capable to fit in a 4 inch or larger casing with your submersible pump. In case of water fluctuation a reasonable depth of water is provided by suspending Simple pumps cylinder 15 feet higher to submersible pump.

In situations mostly occurs in cold weather, a small weep hole is provided at the drop pipe closet to the top of the well to help water to drain and check from freezing. In order to install Simple Pump we need a new well cap. This cap must consist of water and power ports for submersible pumps. To hold the body of Simple pump on the top of the well cap an additional port with split collar is needed. The ports are so balance that submersible pipe, power cord and the Simple Pump down pipe functions simultaneously without any kind of interference.

Hand Pumping EffortThere are two different pump cylinders & lever arms available in Simple Pump. A small cylinder can deliver a total amount of 3 gallons of water at the rate of 60 strokes per minute. While, the larger cylinder can deliver upto 5 gallons of water.

Total amount of pressure i.e. head and water system a Simple Pump can handle is about 125 psi. You can pump water to your pressure bladder tank by connecting Simple pump to outlet water line going to pressure tank.

Simple pump can be fit within a 2 inch or larger casing. Standard well cap sizes are 2, 4, 4.5, 5, 6, 6 over 4, 6.25, 7 and 8 inches and there is a mounting plate is available for adapting the pump to a structural cover over open pit wells, cisterns and tanks. To connect a submersible pump to Simple water pump with the help of pitless adapter you can use specially designed well caps.

The Simple Pump Motor Extension Kits convert the hand pump to motorized operation using a 1/5 HP 12 volt DC electric gear motor or 1/4 HP 24 volt DC motor to pump water from as deep as 200 feet at flow rates of 3 gallons per minute or less and supply pressures of up to 50 psi. Learn more about how to power a solar water pump, here are some Simple Pump installation photos to understand how to do Simple Pump installation by your own.

Learn more about how to power a Simple Pump from solar usingSimple Pump Linear Bearing Link Drive LBLD-12 & LBLD-24. Here are someSimple Pump installation photosto understand how to doSimple Pump installationby your own.

Simple Pump Quote Request Customer Information First Name(*) Please enter your first name Last Name(*) Please enter your last name Delivery Address(*) Please enter a valid address using numbers and letters Additional Address Invalid Input City(*) Please enter a valid city Phone Number(*) Please enter a valid phone number State / Province(*) Please enter a valid state or province email(*) Please enter a valid email address Delivery ZIP code(*) Please enter a valid US or Canada ZIP code Purchase Timeframe(*) Invalid Input Well Size Information Depth is:(*) EstimatedMeasured Invalid Input Well Depth (feet)(*) Invalid Input Water Depth (feet)(*) Invalid Input Freeze Level (feet) Invalid Input Well Recovery Rate (gallons/minute) Invalid Input Casing Size (inches Inside Diameter)(*) No Casing244.5566.25 (thin wall, 6-5/8"OD)6.25 (thick wall, 7"OD)810+Larger Hand Dug Well Please enter a valid casing size Casing Material SteelPVCMasonryNONE Please enter a valid casing type Casing Fill EarthConcreteOtherNONE Invalid Input Casing Rise (inches) Invalid Input Well Operation Information How will the pump be operated?(*) Hand Pump OnlyMotorized Pump OnlyHand pump now, but motorized in the future Please choose how the pump will be operated Will there be a submersible pump in the well?(*) Yes, pipe thru top of wellYes, pipe thru pitless adapterYes, jet pump or suction pumpNo, but will be added in the futureNo, this will be the only pump installedOther Please choose if another submersible pump will be present Other Submersible Additional Information Invalid Input Connection to usage point(*) Pressurized, will connect to pressure tank (typical for domestic or drinking water)Open, will not connect to pressure tank (typical for livestock or garden irrigation) Invalid Input Please provide any additional comments or questions Invalid Input Choose Files to upload any pertinent information about your well location including photos of the well or proposed site, well report from your driller etc. Invalid Input reCaptcha(*) Invalid Input Get My Simple Pump Quote

rps 400 solar well pump kit
 
 
 
 rps solar pumps

rps 400 solar well pump kit rps solar pumps

America's #1 Most Trusted Solar-Powered Water PumpRPS Solar Pump Kits are for people that believe in getting the job done themselves, and getting it done right. Our goal is to arm you with the equipment and knowledge to take control of your water and save a fistful of money doing it.Our Pledges to You

Put the Sun to Work on your land with thefamous RPS 400 is trusted byfarmers and ranchers with moderate head and water requirements. Four solar panels can be mounted easily on a single pole, and at low head can still pump 2700 gallons a day, andover400 gallons at 250feet.And to give you more flexibility and peace of mind, batteries or a generator can beused to supplement as needed. The most efficientbrushless permanent magnet motors mean no replacement of carbon brushes and years of smooth, reliable performance. Lifetime Rotor Warranty and the only field-serviceable pump available save you thousands over other options.Spec Sheet.

No batteries required! Batteries or a generator can be used later as backup with the proper hardware, but most customers find they get much more water than they expect with solar alone! That sun up there is amazing!

We feel itimportant tomention thatour teamis not on commission so expect our help, not pressure to purchase. Our job is to help get you water, not sell you something that isn't a good fit for you or your well.It's why thousands of American farms & ranches trust RPS.Note from RPS co-owner Mike.

I have installed two of these pumps in my wells in Mexico. Both move water 2000 ft from the well to my house. I love these systems. They are easy to install and work beyond expectation. The teck support team at RPS is great. They are intelligent and give spot on help and suggestions. I plan to install a third looked at one in a month or two. I am a 75yo woman and did both with a little help except for digging post holes to mount the solar panels and assisting me.

rps 400n - 2 inch solar well pump kit
 
 
 
 rps solar pumps

rps 400n - 2 inch solar well pump kit rps solar pumps

America's #1 Most Trusted Solar-Powered Water PumpRPS Solar Pump Kits are for people that believe in getting the job done themselves, and getting it done right. Our goal is to arm you with the equipment and knowledge to take control of your water and save a fistful of money doing it.Our Pledges to You

The newly redesignedNarrow pumpis a miraculous 2.01" in diameter and the first of it's kind. Yes, itcan sneak in next to an existing pump/drop-pipe in a 6" well casing to act as a backup redundant pump, or if a pump is stuck down in the well. It fits 2.5"and 3" casings that are so common in old windmills. Finally a solution for windmill wells that could never take a submersible pump before!! Like our 3" pumps, the RPS 400N features a helical rotor. These pumps are designed to operate on solar power alone and feature a brushless DC motor to keep temperature down and efficiency up ina tight well casing.And to give you more flexibility and peace of mind, batteries or a generator can be used to supplement as needed. The most efficient brushless permanent magnet motors mean no replacement of carbon brushes and years of smooth, reliable performance. Lifetime Rotor Warranty and the only field-serviceable pump available save you thousands over other options.

No batteries required! Batteries or a generator can be used later as backup with the proper hardware, but most customers find they get much more water than they expect with solar alone! That sun up there is amazing!

We feel itimportant tomention thatour teamis not on commission so expect our help, not pressure to purchase. Our job is to help get you water, not sell you something that isn't a good fit for you or your well.It's why thousands of American farms & ranches trust RPS.Note from RPS co-owner Mike.

Pump has been in since December, to a depth of 50m running off 4 x 300w panels (Locally sourced in New Zealand), and I am super impressed with it, I knew as soon as I received it the quality was top notch. Now that it's been running for a while and performance is so good, I've recommended it to other farmers, so if you get another order from New Zealand you'll know why. I have used other pumps in the past with various degrees of success but the RPS pump is by far the best I have seen/used. The communication from your company is fantastic. Wish you all the best in the future, and if I'm in need of another pump, you'll be the first to know.

I finally got around to installing the pump I Purchased from you and your team, works great! I just wanted to let you know your customer service is five star, ease of install the same. I really enjoyed working with everyone and happy with the results.

rps solar pumps reviews | read customer service reviews of

rps solar pumps reviews | read customer service reviews of

I just have to say something nice about this company. My sales rep (Danna) was personable, knowledgeable and anxious to get me into the right system. The customer service was stellar all the way through.The pump itself ended up not being the right thing for us (not the fault of RPS), they provided return labels and were kind about it.I wish all companies could learn from these people. It was wonderful dealing with them, I will recommend them and use them in the future.

First, I don't much like complaining about things, but in good conscience, I can't allow this company to continue doing business as they are without at least giving people a heads-up.The original 1-star review has been updated based on subsequent interaction with the company (scroll to the bottom to see the update).I purchased an RPS solar system to run the water for our house and garden. The total price of their package was about $3500. It's expensive, but considering we live in the Pacific Power shut-off zone (a scheme they use to shut down large areas to prevent wildfires), I was not overly concerned about the price.The first issue came with the manual. It's probably the least understandable manual I have ever tried to read. I ended up hiring an electrician to install the system because the manual was completely unhelpful, and I could not get a response from RPS technical support.When I called them the first time, the technician was just as clueless as I was, to my surprise. He explained that he was new and that he would have a senior technical support agent call me back shortly. That call did not happen until some 3 weeks later. During those three weeks, I called multiple times, as did my electrician, but no one would answer the phone.When I finally got the call from a knowledgable RPS technician, he informed me that there must be a bad part, and that he would ship it out immediately. The company agreed to pay for my electrician to install it, which sounded reasonable.Now, here is the rub. Because their support team would not return my calls, I hired an electrician, who spend several hours trying to get the system to work, resulting in a hefty bill. When I told the RPS senior technician about that bill and requested that their company pay for it, he said, he apologized for the lack of return phone calls. He explained that the issue was due to a shortage of technicians (someone quit, it seems) and that it couldn't be helped. He then went on to explain that he asked the owner if the company would pay for the electrician that I hired during the time when RPS was not helping me. The owner told him it was not their policy to pay for that.The end result is that I lost a lot of personal time, energy, and money on this issue. Their policy is that they demand their customers to pay for their mistakes.But wait, it gets worse.They sent out the part, which arrived about a week and a half later and they scheduled my electrician to install it at 8 AM this morning (the day of this review). The electrician showed up promptly, expecting to be guided through the installation process by the RPS technician, which was the plan that he detailed to me on the phone in our last conversation.The electrician calls the RPS support line as he was instructed - nobody answers (as usual). Two hours later, the RPS technician calls me to begin the installation process. Why he called me is beyond my comprehension. They are paying the electrician, who they hired to be at my place at 8 AM. Why didn't they call the electrician like any competent person would do?I suspect you guessed it...the electrician was not able to solve the problem and had to move on to other work...I still have a dysfunctional RPS system that I have paid heavily for in time, energy, and money. AND it still does not work.What are the odds that they are going to get the electrician back out here any time soon to solve the issue? If I had to place any money on it, I would bet against RPS.As an owner of a business myself, I know that there is a huge price to be paid for poor service--even if I can't immediately see it. RPS saved themselves a couple of hundred dollars by not paying for the electrician I hired as a result of them not returning my calls, a price that they should have covered if they had any integrity. Their unwise decision motivated me to write this Yelp review. How many potential customers will they lose over the life of this review, nobody knows. But I bet it's going to cost them A LOT more than a few hundred dollars, and that is how it should be.If you want to work with a company that respects and supports you, you would be wise to look elsewhere--avoid RPS Rural Pumps.Update:A few hours after posting the above review, I received an email from RPS apologizing for the many issues. They admitted their fault and ultimately did what they could to rectify the situation, which included a partial refund, sending out parts to correct the issue, and some new batteries (an upgrade). The system seems to work swimmingly now!I feel that this company may have been hit hard by COVID-19 and is suffering from a lot of subsequent disorientation and disorganization. That said, I believe their initial lack of support and poor responses on the phone, made the situation far worse than it had to be. With time, I hope RPS will be a great company.

replacement water heater anode rods, solid and flexible

replacement water heater anode rods, solid and flexible

Magnesium rods are excellent sacrificial rods, used to protect the inside metal surface of your water heater tank. The magnesium corrodes instead of your tank. Magnesium anode rods tend to be consumed quicker than Aluminum or Aluminum/Zinc/Tin anode rods due to the higher voltage they create during the sacrificial process. Even though Magnesium anode rods normally corrode at a slightly faster rate than most anode rods, dissolved magnesium in water can offer many health benefits.

This particular combination of metal in anode rods is often used when foul odor in water is present. Zinc is a natural anti-fungal element and can help control (not completely eliminate), the growth of iron bacteria which can cause that rotten egg smell. Zinc oxide and zinc compounds are indigestible to micro-organisms such as bacteria. This combo rod is designed to fight some foul water odors that can occur in water heater systems that use aluminum or magnesium anode rods. Please read our FAQ for more information regarding water odor.

Aluminum anode rods are the least expensive and create the lowest voltage during the sacrificial process. This means they will usually corrode at a slower rate than the other anode rods we offer. Actual water conditions will vary and have a direct effect on how quickly an anode rod corrodes and dissolves. Most water heater manufacturers install these in their water heaters as standard equipment.

Flexible aluminum anode rods are designed for those limited spaces where a straight anode rod will be unable to be inserted into the water heater due to limited access directly above, such as low ceilings, closets, attics, under stairwells or in basements. Just bend the anode rod at its flexible sections and insert into opening at top of water heater one section at a time until all sections are inserted. Just make sure that the anode rod is not touching the side of the water heater once completely inside.

This style of anode rod installs into the hot water outlet of the water heater and yet allows the water to still flow through the outlet. These allow the installation of an anode rod for those instances when the normal anode rod has corroded too much causing the steel to rust or corrode in such a way it is now impossible to remove the old rod. Or, for those who just wish to add a second anode rod into the water heater for better protection. Please note: Some water heater hot outlets can have a calcium build up inside the outlet, or the tank may have not been properly bored out underneath the outlet opening, possibly causing interference with this rod slipping into the water heater.

Hot Water Outlet Aluminum/Zinc/Tin anode rods are perfect for use if your water heater does not have a separate anode rod inlet port or your old anode rod is impossible to remove. Contain a built-in heat trap nipple with a fluoroplastic ball that sinks inside the nipple, into a seat, as water flow stops. This is designed to keep any cooling hot water from entering back into the water heater potentially cooling the water heater down. The seat is equipped with a safety relief port. When water is not flowing, heat is effectively trapped in the water heater reducing standby heat loss. An integral 2-1/2" heat trap nipple included with 42-1/2" length and 4" heat trap nipple included with 35" length.

Hot Water Outlet Aluminum anode rods are the innovative solution for water heaters made without separate anode rod ports. Least expensive of the hot water outlet styles, this particular anode rod has a 5" built-in dielectric nipple (no ball or seat) allowing less water restriction than a heat trap nipple.

These 3-section Hot Water Outlet Flexible Aluminum anode rods are the perfect solution for water heaters without a separate anode rod port and installed in places with low overhead clearance. This hot water outlet flexible anode rod has a 3/4" Mipt x 5 " built-in dielectric nipple without a restrictive ball or seat to allow greater water flow than a heat trap nipple. The flexible aluminum anode rod can be bent at the two joints as needed during installation.

Used when access to the top of the water heater has limited clearance due to any obstruction such as low ceilings in closets, attics, under stairwells or in basements. The Ultra Flexible Magnesium Anode Rod has four sections of magnesium attached with copper or stainless steel couplers and 301 stainless steel braided wire providing greater flexibility during installation. The magnesium will corrode and disintegrate long before the stainless steel braided wire ever can. Over time the magnesium will dissolve into your water instead of breaking down, like other anode rods, and leaving sediment at the bottom of the water heater tank. Magnesium is eco-friendly. It provides many health and environmental benefits and is an essential element in all living things.

Flexible Hot Water Outlet Magnesium anode rods are the perfect solution for water heaters without a separate anode rod inlet in tight places. Or maybe your existing anode rod is difficult to remove due to corrosion on the top of the water heater. Low ceiling? No problem! Ultra Flexible Magnesium anode rods are best for extra tight situations. Sectional connections are made with copper couplings and 301 stainless steel braided wire.

Compare the new water heater anode rod on the top (what we sell) to a one year old anode-rod below. If an anode rod looks any more deteriorated than the picture on the bottom, we suggest that you replace that anode rod with a new one.

The used anode rod shown on the bottom has deteriorated to a condition where it will probably need to be replaced soon. Waiting a long time is not a good idea. The possibility of the old water heater anode rod becoming broken off, and then falling to the bottom of the water heater (and then bouncing around whenever water travels inside the water heater) is what will deteriorate the water heater tank lining very quickly. This will cause cracks in the glass lining of the water heater radically shortening the life of the water heater. Having a depleted anode rod and not replacing your water heater anode rod in a timely fashion WILL shorten the life span of your water heater.

In order for the anode rod to work correctly the anode rod must possess a lower, more negative, electrochemical potential than that of the water heater's steel composition to be protected. The negatively charged electrons create a higher voltage to flow from the anode rod to the steel tank causing the anode rod to corrode instead of the steel water heater tank, or other exposed metals such as electric elements. The anode rod is "self-sacrificing" and will continue to corrode until eventually it must be replaced.

When there's no sacrificial metal left on the anode, the tank can rust out. Anode rods generally last about five years but it really depends mostly on the quality of your water and how much water travels through your water heater. When sodium is added to the water (such as when a water softener is used), anode rods can corrode more quickly. Water softeners can help reduce scale build-up and sediment, but anodes can corrode in as little as six months if the water is over-softened. Unpleasant taste or odor coming from your hot water outlets can be caused by natural occurring iron bacteria in the water. This condition is usually more common in private or municipal well systems. According to the Minnesota Department of Health (Iron Bacteria in Well Water) iron bacteria are not known to cause disease, but can cause unpleasant odor, stains and tastes in the water. Iron bacteria does not produce hydrogen sulfide, the "rotten egg" smell, but can cultivate an environment where sulfur bacteria can grow and produce hydrogen sulfide (the rotten egg smell). Certain water conditions will cause a reaction with magnesium or aluminum anode rods to produce a "rotten egg" smell. By replacing the magnesium or aluminum anode rod with a combination aluminum/zinc/tin anode rod you may help decrease this smell, but it may not eliminate it completely. As Aluminum anode rods corrode they can produce an aluminum oxide deposit normally found at the bottom of water heaters, but occasionally make it into the main water supply and into faucet aerators. The aluminum oxide forms a virtually odorless "gel" substance that can vary in texture from a firm somewhat sticky curd to a thick running slurry. The gel can be either milky or clear and is often mixed with other water heater deposits such as scale, rust, or tiny sediment particles. When replacing your anode rod it's a good idea to also flush your water heater out to clean out any sediment, rust, or gel build-up accumulated at the bottom of the tank. You might also consider flushing your water heater out at least once a year as a normal maintenance procedure.

Anode rods generally last about five years but it really depends mostly on the quality of your water and how much water travels through your water heater. When sodium is added to the water (such as when a water softener is used), anode rods can corrode more quickly. Water softeners can help reduce scale build-up and sediment, but anodes can corrode in as little as six months if the water is over-softened. Unpleasant taste or odor coming from your hot water outlets can be caused by natural occurring iron bacteria in the water. This condition is usually more common in private or municipal well systems. According to the Minnesota Department of Health (Iron Bacteria in Well Water) iron bacteria are not known to cause disease, but can cause unpleasant odor, stains and tastes in the water. Iron bacteria does not produce hydrogen sulfide, the "rotten egg" smell, but can cultivate an environment where sulfur bacteria can grow and produce hydrogen sulfide (the rotten egg smell). Certain water conditions will cause a reaction with magnesium or aluminum anode rods to produce a "rotten egg" smell. By replacing the magnesium or aluminum anode rod with a combination aluminum/zinc/tin anode rod you may help decrease this smell, but it may not eliminate it completely. As Aluminum anode rods corrode they can produce an aluminum oxide deposit normally found at the bottom of water heaters, but occasionally make it into the main water supply and into faucet aerators. The aluminum oxide forms a virtually odorless "gel" substance that can vary in texture from a firm somewhat sticky curd to a thick running slurry. The gel can be either milky or clear and is often mixed with other water heater deposits such as scale, rust, or tiny sediment particles. When replacing your anode rod it's a good idea to also flush your water heater out to clean out any sediment, rust, or gel build-up accumulated at the bottom of the tank. You might also consider flushing your water heater out at least once a year as a normal maintenance procedure.

When sodium is added to the water (such as when a water softener is used), anode rods can corrode more quickly. Water softeners can help reduce scale build-up and sediment, but anodes can corrode in as little as six months if the water is over-softened.

Unpleasant taste or odor coming from your hot water outlets can be caused by natural occurring iron bacteria in the water. This condition is usually more common in private or municipal well systems. According to the Minnesota Department of Health (Iron Bacteria in Well Water) iron bacteria are not known to cause disease, but can cause unpleasant odor, stains and tastes in the water. Iron bacteria does not produce hydrogen sulfide, the "rotten egg" smell, but can cultivate an environment where sulfur bacteria can grow and produce hydrogen sulfide (the rotten egg smell). Certain water conditions will cause a reaction with magnesium or aluminum anode rods to produce a "rotten egg" smell. By replacing the magnesium or aluminum anode rod with a combination aluminum/zinc/tin anode rod you may help decrease this smell, but it may not eliminate it completely.

As Aluminum anode rods corrode they can produce an aluminum oxide deposit normally found at the bottom of water heaters, but occasionally make it into the main water supply and into faucet aerators. The aluminum oxide forms a virtually odorless "gel" substance that can vary in texture from a firm somewhat sticky curd to a thick running slurry. The gel can be either milky or clear and is often mixed with other water heater deposits such as scale, rust, or tiny sediment particles. When replacing your anode rod it's a good idea to also flush your water heater out to clean out any sediment, rust, or gel build-up accumulated at the bottom of the tank. You might also consider flushing your water heater out at least once a year as a normal maintenance procedure.

Q. "I have a sulfur odor smell coming from the hot water side of my faucets. A friend of mine told me that it might be caused by my water heater anode rod. Is that true and if so, if I remove the anode rod will the odors go away?" A. Removing the anode rod will not cure the odor problem and will shorten the life span of your water heater tank. It is best to always have an anode rod in your glass-lined steel water heater tank. In many cases the odor is hydrogen sulfide gas. The source is sulfate reducing bacteria which is present in many water systems. That bacteria in most cases is harmless but thrives in the hot water environment. Water temperatures of about 140F - 170F makes for a rich growth medium. This type of anaerobic bacteria feeds off the hydrogen gas produced by magnesium anode rods. Periodic flushing of the tank with bleach solution will reduce the problem. Because there are so many factors we can not guarantee that the odor will be eliminated, but if you have no odor on the cold side of a faucet and only the warm side generally (not 100%), replacing a magnesium anode rod with one of our Aluminum/Zinc/Tin rods can help solve the problem. Some water heater manufacturers' claim that softened water causes the problems, but that is not a proven fact. Removal of the bacteria will usually solve the odor problem. Sanitizing the water heater (with safe levels of bleach, etc), will eliminate the odor but only for a variable (relatively short) length of time. A trace amount of H2S gas in the water is another cause of hot water odor but removal of the anode rod will not cure that odor problem either.

Q. "You say these anode rods can be cut to fit my tank. What is the best way to cut an anode rod?" A. Anode rods should be only a few inches shorter than your water heater. If the anode rod is too long, they can be cut down using a hacksaw.

Q. "As the anode rod dissolves, is water from the hot water line safe to drink?" A. Water used from the water heater is most commonly used for cooking and clean-up, not for drinking water or consumption. The amount of the mineral content dissolved from an anode rod in your water is greatly diluted and normally falls below acceptable allowable levels found in water. Some of these dissolved minerals, like magnesium, in your hot water system can be advantageous for most people to drink, should the hot water be used for consumption. However, if you are concerned about other dissolved elements in your water, then we suggest you get your water tested by a qualified laboratory or not use your hot water for drinking water.

installation practices: keep your pv system well-grounded

installation practices: keep your pv system well-grounded

First, it is required to ground all PV systems. Second, a properly grounded system will help protect you and your employees from unintentional shocks and possible deaths. Third, it can help prevent fires in the system post-installation, avoiding potential lawsuits from angry homeowners. In other words, properly grounding your PV installation protects you.

C.J. Colavito, commercial engineering manager and North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners (NABCEP) certified solar PV installer for Rockville, Md.-based Standard Solar, says most installers are familiar with equipment grounding (EG), which is the more traditional and visable form of grounding. He says grounding is designed to keep installers and anyone else who has to service the system in the future from coming into contact with electrical current. Any metal or potentially conductive materials that are likely to be energized (having electrical current run through it) in the system must be grounded.

If its metal, it needs to be grounded, Colavito says. That means the racking-and-mounting, junctions, frames everything. If the steel bonding to your conduit is a metal pole, connect a copper conductor to it and conduct it to the ground. On PV systems, you always have to do equipment grounding no one wants to be electrocuted.

The second type of grounding is called system grounding, Colavito says. One of the two conductors coming out of the PV system will be grounded normally its the negative wire. All system-grounded conductor wires must be white and are usually bonded to ground inside the inverter. It also includes a ground fault fuse to prevent fires within the system from excessive current flowing into the ground.

Andrew Truitt, principal of Truitt Renewable Energy Consulting in Denver, says a grounding system is only as strong as its weakest link, so all components are important. There are, however, a few components that are found in almost all PV grounding systems (as defined in the Article 100 of the National Electric Code (NEC)):

Grounding Electrode: A conducting object through which a direct connection to earth is established. The grounding electrode is usually a ground rod but can also be a UFER, underground metal water pipe, ground ring or any other means compliant with Article 250.52.

Grounding Electrode Conductor (GEC): A conductor used to connect the system-grounded conductor or the equipment to a grounding electrode or to a point on the grounding electrode system. This is typically a wire that is sized based on the potential fault current that could flow through it if something went wrong in the electrical system.PV systems have separate requirements for both the DC and AC components, but both sets of requirements can often be met with one conductor (690.47).

Equipment Grounding Conductor (EGC): The conductive path(s) installed to connect normally noncurrent-carrying metal parts of equipment together and to the system grounded conductor or to the grounding electrode conductor, or both.

Truitt adds that both the GEC and the EGC must be sized according to the NEC guidelines and must be either a bare copper conductor or an insulated conductor with green insulation (with or without yellow striping).

The connection between the various components of the grounding system are equally as important as the items mentioned above, which is why it is crucial that all equipment used in a ground system (and throughout the entirety of the PV system, for that matter) be listed by a nationally recognized testing laboratory and installed according to themanufacturers specifications, Truitt says.

Module Grounding: Like every other exposed metal component of a PV system, aluminum module frames must be grounded. There are many products available for grounding modules and just as many opinions about the optimal method. Truitt is partial to the most costly and time-consuming method: the tin-plated copper lay-in lug. He likes this method because it is the easiest method to install based on the first to make, last to break mantra of grounding (i.e. the grounding system should be installed before any current flows out of the PV modules and should remain in place until the modules are disconnected and all current flow hasceased).

Array Grounding Conductor Installation: The grounding conductor that runs within the array typically serves as both an EGC and the DC GEC and must be installed accordingly (690.47(C)). In most cases this can be accomplished with a solid bare-copper #8 wire. As the system size increases, it may become necessary to increase the conductor size as circuits are combined, and this must be done by irreversible means (250.64(C)) such as a copper crimp splice.

Enclosure and Conduit Grounding: All metal enclosures (boxes) and conduits that contain energized conductors must be properly grounded per themanufacturers instructions. This is typically done by routing the EGC/GEC through some type of lay-in connection that allows the grounding conductor to maintain its continuity. Different situations require different equipment grounding methods, so it is important to consult NEC Article 250 if any questionsarise.

Grounding: Electrical systems that are grounded shall be connected to earth in a manner that will limit the voltage imposed by lightning, line surges, or unintentional contact with higher-voltage lines and that will stabilize the voltage to earth during normal operation.

Ground Fault: A ground fault in photovoltaic (PV) arrays is an accidental electrical short circuit involving ground and one or more normally designated current-carrying conductors. Ground-faults in PV arrays often draw peoples safety concerns because it may generate DC arcs at the fault point on the ground fault path. If the fault is not cleared properly, the DC arcs could sustain and cause a fire hazard.

System Ground vs. Equipment Ground: The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that all PV Systems over 50 V have one current-carrying conductor connected to ground (690.41). The connection between that conductor (either the positive or negative DC conductor as well as the neutral conductor if the system has an AC component) and the earth is the system ground.

The NEC requires that all exposed metal parts (e.g. racking, conduit, enclosures) of PV systems (regardless of voltage) must also be grounded (690.43). This equipment ground isaccomplishedthrough the electrical interconnection (or bonding) of all those metal parts with the earth.

My project is a standalone PV array system to power a ground sign (off-grid). ONE 185W PV array. TWO batteries. Ground sign has 25W of LEDs inside it. Controller. Timer. Does this need to be grounded?

Hi everyone, This is a good place to learn. I did a solar work recently and I grounded all strings and grounded the mppt on the same earth rod which is separate for the earth of the building. I hope this is right?

Should the metal eaves, metal step flashing, metal roof edging, brick lintels, storm window and door frames, and metal roof over porch be bonded? Im asking because the RMC carrying DC from array to inverter has direct contact to metal building components which are mostly or partly readily accessible to building occupants. Looked like code considered masonry building components capable of carrying current and during periods of rain all exterior metal may carry fault current.

rps solar water pumps | america's #1 solar water pumps

rps solar water pumps | america's #1 solar water pumps

Have a great event near you? The RPS BarThe Solar Water Bar and friendly solar pump team travels to events, shows, bull sales and rodeos. We bring hats, shot glasses and a few solar pumps to demo in troughs. Suggest an event near you!

Solar Well Pumps for Livestock Running well pumps with solar for cattle increased in popularity again in 2019. RPS solar pump systems are trusted in all 50 states with more reviews than any other pump available, used on ranches large and small. Learn more about our famous solar powered well pump systems

Solar Pumps for Off-Grid Living How much does an RPS solar powered well pump cost? Usually a lot less than running power lines to your beautiful offgrid property. Read all the solar well pump reviews where you can buy the pumps. The RPS solar well pump kit is second to none for life off the grid.

Solar Water Pumps for Irrigation Want to use solar power for well pump? Or for your farms booster pumps? Solar is more versatile than ever. Tell any of the RPS team about your water needs and well give you some examples of past irrigation projects, diagrams, or anything that will help you plan for your solar pump for drip irrigation or sprinklers.

pole mounts - panel mounts & trackers - residential | northern arizona wind & sun

pole mounts - panel mounts & trackers - residential | northern arizona wind & sun

Using pole mounts for your solar panels can be a good option if you don't want to mount them to your roof. Pole mounts are easy to install and can provide a way to mount your solar panels so that they are still off the ground and away from harm. They are also easier to get to than panels on your roof for when you are adjusting the angle or cleaning snow or debris off of them.

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